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As I start to test run my trains, bought over the last decade plus, I've been pretty lucky with good operation right out of the box.  So yesterday my luck ran out  with an electrocoupler that just won't stay closed after one trip around the layout.  Santa Fe F3 powered B unit from 2004.  So I did my research here on the forum and found out the best solution is to just replace the electrocoupler...."gulp".  Thanks to Lionel's exploded parts diagrams, I was able to take the unit apart and order a new electrocoupler.  All is good so far and I am waiting for my new part to arrive.  So here is my question....I traced the wires to a connector that has multiple wires going to it, including the two electrocoupler wires. Is there a way to pull the electrocoupler wires out of the connector and reinsert the new electrocoupler wires or do you just cut the wires and splice it back in??  

This is my first real attempt at a repair job and I want to do it right.  And for those who have this problem, if I can do this, so can you.  I almost shelved the unit because of this and I am betting this issue has caused many to shelve their units  too.  As you know, having a coupler pop open unexpectedly can lead to an expensive rear end collision and derailment.  And in my case i am pulling some beautiful 18 inch aluminum passenger cars and I definitely don't want any collisions.  Any help is appreciated.  BigRail

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Before you take it apart, if it is not too late already, the best thing to do is to troubleshoot and see what the problem really is.

Electrcouplers fail to stay closed for two reasons:

-the coupler is weak mechanically

-the coupler is getting a spurious "open" command

The way to troubleshoot is to disconnect the coupler electrically and pull the train. If the coupler continues to open spuriously, then the problem is mechanical and it is in the coupler. If the coupler stays closed, then the problem is electrical and the coupler is being commanded to open. The fix for that is an electrolytic capacitor across the electrical wires going to the coupler.

If the loco is already disassembled, then the point is moot. If the problem is electrical, then the new coupler will display the same behavior as the original one did.

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