If you were to rebuild your layout....

i would probably stay with atlas track, but use ross switches.  i realize atlas has made improvements in their switches, but the pain lingers.

 

that being said, i would not put switches of any brand in tunnels.  i have two of them and they are hard to get at.  bad move.

Ginny and I are thinking of doing just what you ask about. We're considering simply On3 or a dual gauge layout using Atlas and On3. Either way, narrow gauge is coming.

 

Scrappy

Good subject.  I always tell people to take time to plan and do the job one time.  My layout is 32 years old and is holding good.  I used L Girder benchwork covered with Homosote glued and screwed.  Cork roadbed with tubular track and Ross switches.  Everybody has choices and those are what I used.

 

Starting over, I would do everything the same.

 

Ray, one thing many ignore is finishing the ceiling and rug on the floor.  This will keep dust down to not an issue.  Sealer on cement fllos does not cut it.  Dust will pop up with sealer.

 

I am a huge fan of FasTrack but do not like the looks.  Aside from what I like (tubular) I would bend to Ross track or FasTrack.

Good evening

 

I thought about this also, but I'm happy with what I have. My track plan is great for me.

 

Clem k

The very thought has been crossing my mind more and more. I still have room for one more layout, 12' X 20'. I'd have to have help this time around. I'd put down five independent loops being, two loops of Std Gauge and three loops of O-Gauge. Plenty of running without switches of any kind on original Lionel NY tube track. Oh Yes, it would be pure bliss.

When i started my layout several years ago,  I reviewed several kinds of track.  Its the most important purchase of your layout.  I went with Ross track and switches.  I do not regret this decision at all.  Their track had proven to be very well constructed and their switches offer the most variety. I had to alter my track plan which called for a three way switch. Ross is the only one that makes it. My decision to go with them saved me a lot of changes since they had the custom options i needed.  I also ended up using their roadbed which is a Nice compromise for ease and Looks.   I suggest you decide your track based on what you need out of the system and not by price.  It's the heart of the layout.  Get what works for you


You may not run a specific engine or car but your track see use every time.

If I were going to start over again, I think I would still use the O Gauge Tubular Track I have on now...with two exceptions:

1. I would like a larger radius outside loop. My current layout's outside loop is O-42 (purely by accident. I pulled those pieces out of a box of used track, not knowing they weren't O-31 and used them), and next time I would like to be bigger, to lessen chance of derailment near the edge and to be able to run more stuff.

 

2. This is the big one. I will NEVER use the Lionel 6-23010 or 6-23011 switches again! They don't throw all the time (even with 18V), the wheel drops into a hole when it rolls across the points, and they like to derail cars while reversing. My layout would be o-22 already (I am actually buying them for my next layout) if it wasn't for the fact that I built my layout using these switches without the extension pieces to make them O-22 size!

 

I should have known the price I paid for the bulk lot was too good to be true...

I have about 400' feet of track, all Ross. All 72" radii. If I had it to do over I would use a larger radius . I am extremely happy with Ross track.

My layout is pure nostalgia from the Lionel Postwar era.  I use new 027 track, old Lionel 1122E Switches and would use the same if I rebuilt my layout.

I am a big fan of tubular track........

 

I have always used tubular track on all my layouts.  I started my layout before all the new on board technical sounds.  The sounds back in the day came from the train running over the tubular track, and clicking as it went over the jointing track pins.

 

Tubular track can be cleaned once a year and even never and will always get power to the engine.

 

Below  is a picture of the track, that I have on my present layout. K-Line Shadow Rail with pins.  They have stopped making this track, so I bought up a lot of track and have it in storage.

 

If I was going to do it over, I would use Lionel O Gauge Tubular Track & O Gauge Switches. I would make wooded ties like I did on my first major layout and place them under the Lionel Track on a cord bed sprayed gray and then a light ballast. 

 

One more thing Lionel O Gauge Switches have auto reverse. If the train is coming and the switch is set the wrong way, it will automatically change direction.

 

Good Luck

I have all Atlas track and switches. If I had it to do over again I would still use Atlas track and Atlas switches. I like the solid nickel silver rail, very quiet and I like the looks of it as well. The only thing I would do different is buy everything new. Not that I have had bad luck with used track and switches, I haven't really, just decided I prefer the new. Kind of like some people like used cars and some like new I guess.

 

Only problem with new (besides the cost $$$) is the Atlas switches have been hard to come by and they are not expecting more until near year end. Track was (and still may be) hard to find for a while also. My LHS has been able to get me some Atlas track items.   

 

A favorite around here seems to be GarGraves track with Ross switches. That is probably what most will end up recommending. Probably a very good combination. I also really like Lionel Fastrack, but the noise prevented me from using it. I have since learned that Fastrack can be quieted down quite a bit, but requires some extra work. Lots of folks swear by the Fastrack switches, as they do Ross switches as well. I may try a Ross switch or two someday. May even try a temporary Fastrack layout for Christmas or something.

 

Track and switches seem to be a pretty personal thing, my advice would be to look at all track systems that are currently available. Check them out thoroughly. If you find one you really like, get some and try it out. If you end up not liking it you can always sell it and try something else. Good luck with your selection.

Currently finishing my layout with GarGraves and Ross switches. The next layout, in the next 3 to 5 years, will be hand laid code 125 and 148 two rail.

I suggest that you visit a hobby shop or train show and check out your track options.  You can also check with local clubs and modular groups.  There is a book that gives the pros and cons of nearly all O gauge track systems.  

 

 I have been using Realtrax for around the Christmas tree for 10 years without problems.  It does have its limitations if you have to cut pieces to fit, etc.

 

I use Atlas track with Ross switches on my home layout.  I wanted a more realistic track look for the layout.  I used Ross switches because I needed a lot of curved switches.  Atlas did not make curved switches in the radius that I needed.   This combination has worked very well.  

 

My club uses Atlas track and switches because it is extremely rugged.  We can stand on it without problems.  The club layout is a garden railroad.  The Atlas track has held up well outside for 4 years.

 

The most important advice when choosing any track is to select the largest radius that your space allows.  Large curves always give much better operation than smaller ones.

 

Joe  

One of the big reasons that I selected Ross switches was simply the variety of turnouts (switches)! Much more so than with any of the other brands. 

 

Jim

I use Lionel 40 inch tubular track where I can and Kline 096 tubular curves on 3 main lines and Ross 072 and 096 switches,Ross makes tubular switches up to 072,use adapter pins on 096 and bigger.

We are not even done with the layout yet... but I would stick with Gargraves track with Ross switches and Tortoise switch machines. Its proven to be a reliable and affordable combination. We have 072 and 080 curves and next time I would go bigger. So far, thats the only thing I can say I would change.

+1

+2

 

Also, don't forget to look at the numbered switches in place of the curved switches.

 

I'm changing my thought process from "What's the  minimum radius can I use" to "What's the maximum radius I can use", while still getting a good design to work.

I've built a new display every year for the past 8 years. I've used tubular, Real Trax, Fastrack and Atlas.

Right now our permanent display is a combination of Atlas, RealTrax and tubular. If I were to rebuild it, I'd probably try out the Gargraves product over Atlas just so I could take advantage of the Magnatraction on some of my older engines. Although it is kind of fun to do burnouts on the front straight away with the Chicago Alton.

I just placed an order for this years Polar Express Christmas display and will be using FastTrack on top of a closed cell foam carpet padding. Mario had a pretty good deal for me.

 After reading this article when it first came out I went to the drawing board. I started with HO and then went to O and used the same area and did some additions. Didn't like how all the wood matched up and had some uneven area's. Sooo after some planning and a wider and longer surface. I was able to put 3 lines on the table and built a 4th that goes over the top. As far as the uneven surfaces, I resurfaced the entire layout with 1/4" plywood and now I have a smooth surface. It's still a work in progress but I'm much happier with the layout and watching 4 trains run at the same time is awesome. I also added a turnout for each line making a total of 8. I also kept area's open in my planning to expand in the future. The additional cost to expand and resurface was about 100 bucks, that is of course for the wood and paint. Thanks again for the post to push me in the right direction.

Gary 

I would rebuild with Ross sectional track and all Ross switches.  I have a hybrid of Atlas track and Atlas and Ross switches. I will continue to use RossBed.

 

All my Atlas switch machines are gone.....replaced with DZ1000s.

I would still use my ZWL and either a PostWar Z or ZW for accessory power.

Very good topic. I would stay with my tubular track with Johnson roadbed, but I most certainly would replace all of the Lionel switches with Ross 0-72 tubular switches.

I am in the process of rebuilding my layout, so a timely topic for me.  Like with the previous layout, I will continue to use Ross track and switches, a Z-4000, and several Postwar transformers for power.  IMO, the only way to go!!

I am considering just that. I am using fastrack with 036 curves/switches but I would like to run some of the bigger engines in the future. My train room (12' by 14') may not be big enough for 072.  I will stay with fastrack as I have now learned to make custom length pieces (that actually work). My layout (about 6 months old now) has not gone perminate because I keep seeing new things on this forum I want to try.

When a redo is in order, the only change I will make will be to go with minimum 072 curves.  That way I can run everything anywhere.  It'll still be Lionel tubular.

I will also do 072 curves but I use GARGRAVES track. I think I may also add the MTH system so I can run my Subway cars. Right now I only have Lionel TMCC

If I redid my layout I would raise the height to at least 48" instead of the 43" I have now.  I used all Atlas track and switches and love them so far.  I have replaced all my Atlas switch machines with Tortoise, but had planned to do that.

 

Art

The layout I have now is a hybrid design due to the fact that one week I will run exclusively tinplate and another, I run postwar or newer models. It is ( as a design) somewhere between hi-rail and a traditional postwar concept so both types mix in well.

The next will be pure tinplate and thats the area of collecting as far as structures are concerned that I am focusing on now to prepare. Steve's layout over in the tinplate section pushed me off the fence toward a more focused design. 

Where most highrail and postwar layouts are fairly similar in look ( outside of details) after fifty years or more in the hobby I need to keep my interest fresh and a purely tin layout seems to be a good enough challenge from a collecting point of view to arrange as well as being an exception to the norm. I think its important as I age to have something to look forward to and this is one of those things. For me personally, staying out of the crazy market as it is today is more and more appealing as well as avoiding the additional expense of electronics is a plus. The hunt for good pickings is another fun aspect as well as restoring rust buckets. It also will have more of a history behind it ( the lost art of lithography) to tell than my current layout has 

+3

    Gar Graves track Ross switches end of story. Choo Choo Kenny

What Kenny said.

My GG layout is 30+ years old with no issues.

A new layout however would be GG with Ross switches.

It would also be higher, crawling around on the floor gets old real fast. And those who say low for the kids I got news for you they would all rather sit up on a stool. I learned this lesson the hard way and have paid for this mistake many times.

Jim

Ray,

   I am very happy with my FasTrack layouts, the new Command Control FT Switches are far and away my favorite new switches for running all my Tin Plate & Post War trains.  I also have an inner oval of RealTrax with no switches, I recommend either the FasTrack or the Industrial Rail Atlas with Ft CC switches for low voltage constant no problem running.

PCRR/Dave

Would the 48" height be due to getting under the layout or for better access at track level? Or both?

It would be both, but I also like the viewing angle a lot better too.  It looks more realistic if you are looking at it more straight-on than top down.  I was talked into the lower height because of my grandson's heights and they are now taller than me with one exception and he is growing like a weed.

 

Art

I have been trying some different types of track on small temporary loops.  When I get to building my first O-gauge layout (I have built 3 layouts in HO over 45 years) I am leaning towards GarGraves and Ross switches.  I am not a fan of FasTrack or RealTrax.  

 

I like what Jim said about layout height.  I had mine at 48 inches when our kids were small.  Maybe I wouldn't go that high again with the hopes of having grand children viewing it, but it would still be high since I am not going to crawl around underneath.  Small kids can sit on stools.  I plan to have a walk around with no crawl under to access hatches.  I may have a lift out bridge at the room entrance.

Thanks, I'm kind of facing the same dilemma with my grandson. Getting underneath is a real problem for me.  Want him to be able to reach everything as he helps me with the train stuff, especially all the stuff I can't see very well. He gets around underneath very well also. I'll tell my daughter to stop watering him so much so he doesn't shoot up like yours did.  

I rebuilt most of mine earlier this year. I kept the tubular track, but swapped out the Lionel and K-Line switches for original Marx all metal ones in both manual and remote control versions. Also added a Marx all metal 90 degree crossing.

My current layout is 80% Fastrack and 20% Atlas O.   I keep telling myself that one day I will convert over to all Atlas OR Ross.   But the Fastrack is so easy, works wonderfully, and looks pretty good, so I never do.  

 

In fact, I just constructed a new 4X8 layout and used all Fastrack because it is easy and reliable, and looks really good.

 

Using Fastrack was a great decision for my layout, I would not change that decision.

 

 

Atlas track and Fastrack switches.  I had Fastrack for a number of years, but it was much noiser (otherwise good).  But nothing is a dependable and durable as Fastrack switches.  When I went to Atlas track I kept the Fastrack switches I needed.