If you were to rebuild your layout....

I am actually in the process of making a new layout.

I went to MTH Scaletrax with a few Ross switches in the mix.

Scaletrax has the best flex track period.

It is also by far the smallest rails in O gauge.

Yes, there can be issues with the switches, the fixes are well documented and easy to do. The switches all have anti-derailing from the factory but it's not going to throw, it just lets cars push the rail aside to pass back through. Very Light cars could be an issue.

Yes, there is a limited selection of switch types; O-31, O-54, O-72, #4, #6, left and right in each. 

That is why I determined how to mix Ross Switches with Scaletrax. Ross has every switch I've ever seen. I got a pair of Ross Ready O-72 Wyes.

I have used Realtrax extensively in the past and will re-use it in areas out of sight. My biggest complaint with it is the noise, but it's not quite as bad as Fastrack.

Realtrax Switches can develop issues but I've always been able to fix them. A common fault is the springs popping off the tree letting the points float a bit. Put the spring back in place and glue something flat on the end of the post. Problem never comes back.

Note there is one spring for each direction of throw, they need to both be correct.

Feel free to email me if you need more data on the switches or fixing open circuits in the track power.

I am in the middle of tearing out the old layout and building a new one in a different part of the basement.  I started a thread about it a few weeks ago along with my lists of what I would do different.  Here is the list:

Things that will be done different:

1) make it a shelf type around the room layout instead of a large table against the wall.  All the track/scenery will be in reach of the aisle ways and there will be no access hatches!  

2) Change track type!  I will be selling off all my Fastrack and be strictly using Gargraves track and Ross turnouts.  I will stick with numbered turnouts instead of curve replacement where possible.  They will also all be hand thrown using ground throws.  Since I run a short line the new track will allow me to really weather it, and add as little or as much ballast as I need to get the look I want.

3) The trackplan will be based on operations.  As much as I like my current trackplan it was really for just running trains in circles with some switching opportunities.  Yes I will set up the track so I can have some continuous running because sometimes I just want to let the trains run, and my son enjoys it.  I will also have hidden yard under the layout to bring trains on and off the layout.

4) I want to be able to run operating sessions like the HO and N scalers do.  Car/Card system or something computerized.  I want to be able to run operating sessions alone, or with one or two other people.

5) Make my Great Lakes Car Ferry the center of operations and the layout!  Alex Malliae built me a great great lakes car ferry but it was an after thought for my layout.  It is something I have always wanted on my layout but didn't think I would be able too until I had more space.  Well the opportunity came 2 years ago for him to build it for me but it was added to the layout as an afterthought.  This new layout it will be the center for the layout and operations.  It will also have a proper size yard to go along with it.   The new yard will have a proper switching lead, and be large enough to hold 2x the amount of cars that fit on the ferry plus all the idler cars and service cars for the ferry such as the coal hoppers needed to fuel the ferry.

6) I will add a few more industries for operating opportunities.  I would like to add a furniture factory, a small auto parts factory, and maybe a food canning facility.  All industries will be run by some kind of car/card system or a computerized system to have realistic operations.  

My layout is "U" shaped in a 3 car garage.( Auto has one space)

1- remove ALL yard, garden etc., tools from the wall and put on the curb, they will disappear.

2- relocate all my hand tools, saw, hammer, screwdrivers to a wall, not yet built

3. Build at least 2 sides on a wall.

4. 48-50 inches tall.

5. Currently all I have is Fastrack and not being an "expert" am completely happy.

Brent

I like the idea of a shelf layout (mine will also have multi-levels...some day). It seems like it would provide for more track and better access with more linear development of buildings and roads, although less urban development with clusters of buildings. How do you plan to secure your track to the shelf? 

My current layout is Gargraves track with Ross switches. Next redo will pull out the O-54/O-63 Gargraves curves and replace them with O-72/O-80 Gargraves curves. I put in smaller curves, in part, so I wouldn't be tempted to buy any of those big fancy steam locomotives! LOL, I did buy a couple of mid-size fancy steam locomotives and now need the bigger curves so that I can run the PASSENGER cars!

Jim

I am re-thinking my foot print (again) Thinking of going to an around the wall from an island. All Fast track but would like to increase my ends to a combination of 48" and 60" outer loop and 48" inner loop(72" is a no go in this house maybe next time). I have an oil burner and oil tanks in my way so I am thinking a U shaped around the wall. Also looking into the Mianne Benchwork risers for a 2nd level of some kind. Using their base allows me the easy re-configuring which I have done a few times.

My work is at our busy season now until Labor day  so I am planning a late summer Fall project for myself

I'm in the of expansion right now going from a 1 level to a 3 level layout. Had all Fastrack with O-36 curves because of my compact size layout so stayed with it except using Fastrack transition and Realtrax adapter combination to be able to use Realtrax O-31 curves to fit inside 2 Fastrack O-36 180 degree turns. Can't expand in width or length so having to go up is only choice I have, can't go any bigger curves running 3 train and 1 trolley track lines in a 4'8" x 8'6" area with a 6' x 3'8" "L" extension. If I ever get a bigger house I'll build a bigger layout and decide then what to use. I reduce the rumble of the Fastrack by using 1/2 inch thick and side overlap foam. I glue the cut to track shape foam using foam glue to the wood and glue the track to the foam with the same glue. I don't use any screws to hold down the track so no noise is transmitted between the wood and foam. Makes a big difference and track stays in place. I am running conventional and have track feeders every 5 joints of track and all 3 sides of all turnouts.

I'm not even half way through my current rebuild. I'm basing it on what I have learned on this site over the past 3 plus years from a lot of you. I'm happy. Of course I could use a larger train room.

Larry