I haven't seen much posted about these. Seeing that they're new models, I thought I'd post my adventures. I bought the BNSF graffiti version.
This one costs a little more money over the standard version, but in comparison to the cost of graffiti decals and effort, IMO the $8-10 extra is fair.
Out of the box, the car seemed a bit light to me, given its size. The scale says its right about 15 oz, which is a bit on the light side based on what the NMRA standards say. it should be 20-21oz. Digging into it, It appears as though the only thing made of metal is the trucks and couplers. The rest of it, including the floor appears to be plastic, unless theres a metal piece sandwiched between layers somewhere.
One positive, is that this car uses the sheet metal sprung trucks with rotating bearing caps. The couplers are the hidden tab type, and the shanks of the lobsterclaws have a faux extended cushion pocket detail on them. The trucks seemed pretty wobbly when mounted. I thought it seemed a bit odd that they could be rocked vertically enough that you could get the coupler to rotate under the stirrups.
The car is held together by 2 screws. Once you remove the trucks from the floor, there's 2 deep holes. The screws go into the roof. The floor is odd. The doors do not open (IMO thats good because it eliminates the overscale door slides, yet the car has a molded floor insert. Based on the fact that the floor detail does not go all the way to one end, I assume there is some parts bin repurposing going on, probably with the 57' reefers. This, in theory is ok, because you cant see it. I added 1 oz of tire weight to both sides of each screw post, a total of 4 oz to the car. 
The car assembly is quite shoddy, as unfortunately seems typical of late.
The floor is a lamination of several layers that are all glued together, the gluing was kinda sloppy and the car was clearly assembled before the floor glue was dry, as the floor was glued to the shell at one end. If you try and take one of these apart, be careful doing so. The other issue I encountered, was that despite all of the glue where it shouldnt be, or it didnt bond.
This is the corner that was glued to the shell, yet the floor wasnt attached to the underframe. I used Faller Expert and some clamps, left it for a few hours and it was bonded down. There were a few other spots where re-application of glue was necessary to finish the factory's job. If you never take the car apart, you may not encounter or need to be concerned with this. If you are going to put Kadees on the car I suggest that you make sure the floor is fully bonded before doing so. The underframe, on the other hand is quite nicely detailed. A full set of brake cylinders and bits, as well as the reservoir for the cushioning system.
In regard to Kadees. The car comes with a pair of spacer pads, 4 screws and some air hose details. This is where I started to wonder.
First of all, they're not molded in black, they're dark grey. Its like they just shot them out of whatever was loaded in the machine. Second, the mold gates are in the exposed surface. I guess they just dont care.
I filed off the marks and shot them with matte black spray paint.
Now, this work turned out to be just a waste of time, as, if you look at this picture of the real car , it is equipped with cushion couplers. Installing kadee 745s on these pads will not give you this appearance. They dont stick out far enough. Now... you could say, meh, they supply the same thing with every car and this is what they've got. Ohhhhhh if only that were true, I'd say ok. But that's not true. Lionel DOES make the right part. Cushion pockets for kadees were provided with the 86' boxcars. So this is not a matter of not having the right parts, its a matter of couldnt be bothered... with a car that has a $100 MSRP. I went into the closet, grabbed a bag out of an 86' boxcar box (they're too long to kadee and run on O72), and go to work. If you need the Cushion pockets for Kadee the part number is 6801712100 and they're $9. They take a kadee 746 knuckle. Kadee themselves also makes an extended pocket, but it is way too long, unless you want to re-drill the holes in the bottom of the car.
I opted to 2 rail the car, and used atlas trucks with NWSL 36" wheels. Swapping trucks for Atlas ones lowers it a little bit, so I ended up using 2 micromark shims and the 86' boxcar pocket to achieve the right height. If you keep the lionel trucks, you can probably add the cushion pocket to the bottom of the lionel supplied adapter plate (its identical to the one thats supplied with the 86' cars) and get the height about right.
Using this pocket makes it protrude about the right amount.
So that finishes the mechanical overview. Now, the graphics:
In the box, they kinda show you the "boring" side. Although, really, not bad. Its pretty believable graffiti.
This is the side that faces the back of the box:
I think its really cool. Clearly someone with some artistic ability was turned loose for a day or 2 to draw this up.
So again, it comes down to the execution of it, and thats where it becomes a bit of a let down again. The lettering on the car is "fuzzy". Its just not sharply defined. You can see in the BNSF circle cross a few photos up what I mean. The "Burlington Northern" and "Railway" in the rim of the logo is almost absorbed in the white circle, while the "Santa Fe" in the center is quite thick in comparison. All of the data marking is similarly not crisp. Graffiti is fairly sharp, but it looks to be printed over a base color, which sometimes protrudes at the edges of the graphic. There's also one or 2 minor inconsistencies here as far as the graphics go. On the side where the reporting mark is painted over, the conspicuity stripes are visible over the graphic. IMO if the car was shopped to replace those, then the car number would also have been patched back as well. Just a bit of a disclaimer here though: I have not seen or examined a "regular" car. I think the graffiti car was not done as a pad process, but rather it was "printed" in some way onto the car. This may or may not have impacted the quality of the graphics. Someone else would have to comment as to whether or not the rest of the run looks like this. The other side effect of whatever process was used to decorate this, is that it has a thickness, and it is quite glossy... moreso than it should be. I do not find that to be a big deal, as a bit of dullcoat can resolve the issue. I will probably give the whole car a wash of very diluted brown oil paint, to just mute the entire thing down to a more realistic sheen and try to go from there.
Overall, I think the car is a B+ for Effort, but a C for execution. I didnt pay $110 for this car. It was $79.95 from a well known forum sponsor, while the regular version ran $71.95. I will not complain that a new modern era car was tooled up, but I think for the price, that the delivered product had a few too many corners cut. This is Atlas O Master line dollars, and the car just isnt up to par with that.
