Installing a DC commander and sound board into an MTH Ives/dorfan 1134 style steamer - questions and help needed

You have a few issues.  First, the smoke unit does not have a power supply to drive the fan.  You really need a PS-1 type which can be driven off the R2lC output of the DC CDR.

The RS should come with magnet and reed switch.  Use it.  You can not use the tach signal.  It needs 5V plus the RS is looking for a AC chassis ground to trigger chuff or in the case of the newer version the closed switch.

You need an antenna outside the metal shell. If you can insulate the tender shell from the chassis you can use it.

If you want integrated chuff/puff, you need to integrate GRJ super chuffer.  G

You can use the tach wheel seamlessly with the Chuff-Generator to generate a programmable number of chuffs per driver rev. To power the fan and handle the chuffing and idle smoke, the Super-Chuffer is what I use. This also powers the Chuff-Generator.

What are the dimensions of the chuff generator since the tach wheel in this thing is sideways.

What do you mean "sideways"?

The Chuff-Generator is fabricated on a printed circuit board with the dimensions of 1.3" x 0.4" in size.  The end away from the wire connections has the tach reader on the underside, that is obviously positioned over the flywheel.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

What do you mean "sideways"?

The Chuff-Generator is fabricated on a printed circuit board with the dimensions of 1.3" x 0.4" in size.  The end away from the wire connections has the tach reader on the underside, that is obviously positioned over the flywheel.

John, this engine does not have the flywheel on the motor. It is on a geared jack shaft between the motor side frames. I think Jeff is asking for the size because the unit will need to fit between side plates.

Steve

Exactly what Steve said and here are some pictures of that and of the smoke unit in the shell. Please let me know your thoughts on if it will fit.

Thank you.

Not going to fit.  Plus your using DC CDR (No Cruise) but are going to add the cost of the super chuffer for smoke and the Chuff generator plus the harness to connect it all.  You are complicating and raising the cost of your First ERR Upgrade.

Have you considered just getting the PS-3 Steam kit and use it?  The cost will be less, and the work easier for this.   G

GGG posted:

Not going to fit.  Plus your using DC CDR (No Cruise) but are going to add the cost of the super chuffer for smoke and the Chuff generator plus the harness to connect it all.  You are complicating and raising the cost of your First ERR Upgrade.

Have you considered just getting the PS-3 Steam kit and use it?  The cost will be less, and the work easier for this.   G

I have considered getting a PS unit but since my wife is still recovering from Stage 3 Breast cancer and bills gotta be paid. I have done some ERR installs before but this one is a little different. I was given the ERR boards including the sound so I am trying to keep this on a budget. Would the ERR chuff board do the job? The other issue is since I am not a licensed MTH tech there are no warranties on their boards. I am open to suggestions on what to do. If I could recover enough from the ERR items to cut costs maybe that is a choice. Thanks for the input.

Go with the magnet for chuff.  As far as smoke, you need to add the 5V power supply for the fan and let TMCC control off and on, but no puff.  You still could use GRJ super puffer to do this, and the magnet for the chuff.  I think his puffer is $60. G

It will fit fine, don't listen to George.   You'll have to mount it a bit different, just turn it 90 degrees like this.

Well here is a test run. I need to get the chuff magnet and board for smoke and then button her up. I wanted to make sure it tested okay.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

It will fit fine, don't listen to George.   You'll have to mount it a bit different, just turn it 90 degrees like this.

Okay John,

I ordered your two boards from Hennings today. I could not do it sooner with getting the flu again and having to work extra long hours this week. Once I get them I might be asking some questions but I do believe once this is done it will be really cool and different....I do like different....Dorfan train collecting and running should shout that out.

Captaincog posted:

gunrunnerjohn posted:

It will fit fine, don't listen to George.   You'll have to mount it a bit different, just turn it 90 degrees like this.

Okay John,

I ordered your two boards from Hennings today. I could not do it sooner with getting the flu again and having to work extra long hours this week. Once I get them I might be asking some questions but I do believe once this is done it will be really cool and different....I do like different....Dorfan train collecting and running should shout that out.

Now for some additional questions for gunrunnerjohn,

1. I received the boards and I am assuming that I place a little bit of solder on the end of the wire to prime it and then solder it to the appropriate board pin location?

2. Do I need to use the tach tape that came with the chuffer switch or is the tach taped wheel on the engine good to use? 

3. Anything else besides making the brackets do you suggest?

Thank you!

The tach tape on the locomotive is fine as long as it's in good condition.  I recently had a guy that had one that had oil stains on it, and it drive the Chuff-Generator crazy, replaced the tape and all was well.

I don't usually tin the wires for the board, I just stuff them through the hole and solder them.  Just make sure you trim the flush on the back side so they don't short to the frame.

Is there a reason for using a DC Commander instead of the vastly superior Cruise Commander? The increased purchase cost will be long forgotten once you get used to operating with ERR Cruise Control.

RoyBoy posted:

Is there a reason for using a DC Commander instead of the vastly superior Cruise Commander? The increased purchase cost will be long forgotten once you get used to operating with ERR Cruise Control.

Yes,

The DC commander set-up was given to me. Since I must keep the costs down due to helping my wife with her breast cancer and the medical costs it seemed the least expensive alternative.....plus I will have something different. I have several ERR conversions done with cruise control but I have some DC commander conversions that almost run like they have cruise. 

Thanks for asking.

Okay all day nstalled but no chuff. I aligned everything correct. I go to set the chuffs on the chuff generator and the red LED is always on and no chuffing noise. Any suggestions?

Update from yesterday:

I finally was able to program the chuff generator and it now flashes as the tach reader reads the tape but no chuffing noise and no smoke puffs but just a steady stream of smoke. I opened up the engine again and the wiring appears to be correct.

Any ideas of who could help me? I really took my time on this project to get it right. Obviously there is something I missed or messed but I do not know where to go from here.

Thanks in advance!

GRJ it is his board.  Gap has to be perfect, not to close not to far.  G

Jeff, are you not getting my emails?