Installing and Removing Woodland Scenics Foam Track Bed in layout??

I have used a variety of roadbed materials over the years.  With that as a background after I first went to use a case this product I was so disappointed that I sold the entire contents on the OGR "For Sale" thread for $0.25.  I felt so bad about the transaction I let the buyer keep the quarter.

But don't let my opinion influence you.

1.  This bedding has to be glued down, with the recommended tack glue.  My board already two coats of enamel paint on it.  Will the glue stick to the painted board?

You use FOAM glue to use the Woodland Scenics Foam roadbead. Yes the Foam glue will stick to painted surfaces as well as the bottom of the roadbed.

2.  The instructions online say to glue your track down on top of the foam.  I am using old 031 track, which as you know often requires some oomph to hold the curved sections together while you you fasten it down (due to small bends in the track ends).  Is this glue going to be strong enough to hold those "forced" sections together once it dries?   Is it possible to use #4 panhead screws and just screw the track down, with the screw going through the foam bed and into the plywood board?   Or, will the foam bed "grab" or "clog"  the screw threads as you try to screw down the track?   I am not averse to predrilling the screw holes, through the foam, but will the foam grab or clog the drill bit?

I doubt the Foam glue will hold the tinplate track. Yes you can use screws, but for deadening sound, I would use Zip ties. Drill a hole through the foam and board and use two zip ties, one zip tie head sticking above the tie and cant go through the hole in tie, and the other zip tie head ratcheted to the zip tie going through the board underneath the train table.

3.   After you glue the foam bed down, what happens if a couple of years later you want to change your layout?  Will the foam pull-up fairly easily?  Or will it simple tear to shreds, leaving a layer of foam still glued to the board, which you then have to figure out how to scrape off?

YEs the foam will pull off depending on how much foam glue you have used. a Little bead from a caulking gun is all you need. have a 1 1/4" and a 3" scraper nearby when you want to pull up the foam.

I did not glue mine.  My table top is 1" foam.  I have used the foam roadbed and used finishing nails to secure the track and foam roadbed to the 1" blue foam.  The finishing nails barely enters the plywood under the 1" foam.  Easy removal when needed.

Truth be told I prefer cork roadbed.

Have fun.

Ron

I use liquid nails white for the woodland scenics roadbed. I run a bead the scraped it flat. It's nice and tacky and holds well even on curves. I masking tape it about every 8 or so inches on curves and typically only the ends on straights. I make sure and press firmly when putting it down. I always split the material down it's seam to lay curves as well.

I used Atlas screws instead of glue. I have 1/2” Homasote top so I used foam pins and held in place which was easy to push pins down in multiple locations. Once happy with position screwed down track then put screws in various points to hold bed in position.  In a few spots I used glue. 
Obviously screws were used at joints and at various points on the curves  On straights the screws holding track was usually all I needed

It has worked well for me. It is easy to work with and I have been able to reuse it when I changed track plans. I did use the woodland scenics foam glue and pins to glue the foam to the surface. For the curves, I did need to rip the foam down the center slot to get it work on the curves. My tightest curve is 27”. I also used the longer O Gauge accessory activation track. The foam covered the height difference.

@jjwyatt posted:

I used Atlas screws instead of glue. I have 1/2” Homasote top so I used foam pins and held in place which was easy to push pins down in multiple locations. Once happy with position screwed down track then put screws in various points to hold bed in position.  In a few spots I used glue. 
Obviously screws were used at joints and at various points on the curves  On straights the screws holding track was usually all I needed

 

That's exactly what I've done.  The trackbed is generally easily removed and re-used.