Installing Glenn Snyder shelving

I would cut some metal tubing that fits over the screw. You can adjust the length of this tubing spacer as you move up the wall. Just make sure those screws go deep enough into the studs.

Small wooden block painted the same color as the wall.  Once you put your locomotive or rollingstock on the shelf you won't be able to see it anyway.

Depending how the wall is bowed, you could shim out the other end of the shelf so not to stick out so much on one end.(Each end out 1/4")

You can use nuts for large gaps, but add a washer on wall side if mounting to drywall so they don't dig in.

I bought a ton of washers and just adjusted the shims to keep the shelf from kinking if you have a bump out on the wall.  Also, be aware of the fact that when two pieces join, you really want them to be in the same plane, so you may have to tinker to make that happen as well.

My inclination is to cut a wood shim so you have solid backing all along the wall/shelf gap.  And long enough screws to get enough into the studs with the shim.

@William 1 posted:

My inclination is to cut a wood shim so you have solid backing all along the wall/shelf gap.  And long enough screws to get enough into the studs with the shim.

Wouldn't the wood shim wave with the wall?

using small connector plates to level short segments

using GS shelving up a down stair in the stairway leading to the basement layout

the stair shelves will have a laser cut clear acrylic cover hinged at the top.

the 1/4" clear stair plex cover to be laser cut.

The cost to cut this was about $100 with shipping.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Wouldn't the wood shim wave with the wall?

No, It won't because the shim would be tapered to even out the wall variance.  Get a nice strip of wood that is 1-1/2 inches thick and cut long tapered pieces (see photo for rough example) from the wide gap from corner of the wall down to where thee is no gap. paint to match wall or shelve color.  you need a solid backing for the Glen Synder type of shelving. Having the shelf flat against the wall helps it support the weight of the trains.

@yardtrain posted:

No, It won't because the shim would be tapered to even out the wall variance.  Get a nice strip of wood that is 1-1/2 inches thick and cut long tapered pieces (see photo for rough example) from the wide gap from corner of the wall down to where thee is no gap. paint to match wall or shelve color.  you need a solid backing for the Glen Synder type of shelving. Having the shelf flat against the wall helps it support the weight of the trains.

Your pictures of the shelves mounted show no shims, so I'm not sure how they illustrate the technique.

I drilled for every stud on 16" centers.  The washers hold the shelf out less than 1/4" at most, and I can safely say the shelves aren't going anywhere!  I don't see the wood as bringing anything to the party, at least for me.  I have shelves end to end with locomotives, they don't sag or move at all, loaded or empty.

OGR FORUM-ites have offered creative, practical solutions to your "bent wall" problem. Thankfully, the walls of my train  room are straight-laid brick. the horizontal mortar seams provide a reliable line for installing anchors and screws. So there's minimal measuring and no "stud-searching."  Perfect!

Mike Mottler    LCCA 12394

If you need to adjust your shims for uneven walls, figure out the number what you need for washers in that spot, super glue with a drop to them all together, and then super glue them to the back of the shelf so they stay in place while you screw in the screw. Use a level vertically to make sure you have no bow left, and of course horizontal so your shelves are level. Adjust your shims as needed by adding or removing a washer.

to hold the shelves in place level to drill;  I use AlienTape.

I apply the tape to the back of the shelf it keeps the shelf up while I screw it in compressing the tape.; I then just leave the tape as add support.

I use AlienTape for everything I need to hold in place while I am attaching stuff.

@AlanRail :

Thanks for the Alien Tape recommendation! I have been looking unsuccessfully for a good tape like this for some time! Just ordered.

Stan

AlienTape is not at all like double stick scotch tape.

It's also reusable. You need a xacto knife or scissors ✂️ to cut it.

I ended up using washers to fill the gap.  I used as many as 6 on the lower shelves and as few as 1 or 2 on the upper shelves.   It makes the shelves wobble slightly when you pull on them, but they aren't going anywhere.   Now to order the endcaps (I wasn't sure if I was going to use them) and start bringing out the boxes.   Oh, and don't worry, the butterflies will be relocated and an appropriate railroad theme will be moved to that wall.   

@phillman posted:

I ended up using washers to fill the gap.  I used as many as 6 on the lower shelves and as few as 1 or 2 on the upper shelves.   It makes the shelves wobble slightly when you pull on them, but they aren't going anywhere.   Now to order the endcaps (I wasn't sure if I was going to use them) and start bringing out the boxes.   

Looks good.  Nobody will notice the washers once the trains are up.

The endcaps look nice, but before you order them, I would put trains up and make sure they will work for the qty. of items you want to put on the shelves.  Because they are triangle shaped, they block many items from hanging over the end of the shelve, thus restricting or losing an inch or 2 of space on each horizontal section.  This doesn't seem like much, but I found that it is quite restrictive in that it does not allow locomotive pilots to hang over the end, and those extra inches are almost always needed on every one of my shelves, especially as I rearrange every so often and try to put new items up.  It has become annoying how restrictive they can be when I just need 1 more inch to fit something.

I ended up using the caps on one end and just put the chocks (clear plastic wheel stops) on the other end that is less visible.  Another trick with the wheel chocks is to put them on the middle rail so they just chock axles instead of wheels.  Allows you to put wheels almost to the very edge of the shelf.

I used washers as well for the uneven walls, but I had no issues with the shelf wobbling.  If you have them tightened down, but not enough to warp the shelf, the shelves are quite solid.

I used paperboard shims cut to the height of the shelf by approx 1 inch and scraps from 1/8 paneling cut the same, or a combination.  Full support and easier to handle than washers.  Painted my wall color initially, later said "not worth it as it can't be seen".