Installing TMCC/Electric Railroad in a DCS locomotive . . . What is involved?

Hi, does look nice

The ERR TMCC board with sound and smoke puff, works very well, I have just upgraded a Y6B of the same generation for a friend who had the same requirement as yourself as his 5V board went south. Speak to ERR support they are vert helpful and will make sure that you get the correct parts and sound board

Its quite a fiddle but well worth it. he is very pleased with the result, just a few things to say , I used LED lights from the ERR board, also the R electro couple  will have to be replaced with a Lionel one. The tender is used as the antenna so will have to insulated with nylon screws and washers.

I have now done 3 of these and all without problems

contact me if you need any help

ps: I know some people look down on the ERR smoke and chuff unit but they work well and are less difficult to install

I thought there were only two types of BCRs, one for 5 volt boards that look like a 9 volt battery and one for the 3 volt boards that does not. I would not think putting a 3 volt BCR in a 5 volt engine would hurt it but maybe there is a third type??

To get the same features with TMCC that the engine already has would cost close to $350 just for the parts. Cruise, railsounds, coupler, and 4 chuff circuitry would be required. Then add labor if you don't do it yourself.

Make sure the engine is actually dead before proceeding.

Pete

BTW, I agree with Pete, first make SURE the engine can't be revived. Also, a complete TMCC upgrade will cost more than having the PS32 board installed to replace the old 5V board, something to consider.

masoner posted:

ps: I know some people look down on the ERR smoke and chuff unit but they work well and are less difficult to install

While the ERR chuff board will provide chuffing for the fan, by spending a little more money, you get a lot better performance.  The ERR board does not give you idle smoke, and the chuffing is timed to the duration of the closure of the chuff switch, not to the time between chuffs.  Also, the motor just coasts to a stop, that results in constant smoke at a pretty slow speed as the motor never actually stops.  My Super-Chuffer will give you better looking chuffs with more definition, idle smoke, and as a bonus you get Rule-17 lighting capability and automatic cab light control.  The reason the ERR chuff board is a bit easier to install is it does much less for you.  If you're spending $350-400 for an upgrade, I'd recommend spending the extra $35 for the added capability.  With the MTH, you'll also need a chuff switch.  You can go with the classic magnets on a driver with a reed switch, or you can use my Chuff-Generator to eliminate magnets and reed switches glued to the wheels and frame.

Thanks Ted, Pete, and John. I will try to determine if "dead" is dead.

Scrappy

A Repair will be significantly less than an upgrade with the right tech.  Much less labor involved.  G

GGG posted:

A Repair will be significantly less than an upgrade with the right tech.  Much less labor involved.  G

I think that's been said several times.   For the repair, I'd suggest he see you, can't go wrong there.