Skip to main content

You can now and for the next three (3) days save $11.70 on the purchase of six (6) of our new #O-SL4 L.E.D. strip lights (05-14-2015 thru 05-17-2015). Reg. $4.95 USD ea. NOW: 6 for $18.00 USD.

     View / purchase at link below

 

http://lbrenterprisesllc.homes...html?_=1431606996201

 

Dave, LBR

 

 

 

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

For the person that has done little if any soldering of electrical wiring ( or others that have but have forgotten) on model trains here is a hint that is very inexpensive and will save a lot of grief when reassembling the unit they are working on.COAT ALL SOLDER JOINTS WITH CLEAR FINGER NAIL POLISH WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED THE WIRING JOB. Most times the polish can be purchased for around $1.50 per bottle or less. This simple and cost effective application will assure that all solder joints will not short out when coming into contact with another wire or grounding metals.

Dave, LBR 

Yes, we use 32ga. wire on all of our LED's as it is easy to work with and a snap to clean for soldering. Simply put a dab of flux on the end of the wire and apply heat with a tinned soldering iron. That's it you are done. Now you can take that end and solder it to what ever you are hooking it up to.

     Oh, BTW you could put it in front of a coach window and from a few inches away you would not notice it. How about that.

Dave, LBR

Originally Posted by CUSTOM "O" DECALS:

These do not flicker in the conventional sense as an incandescent bulb would going over dirty trackage .

 

I guess I'm finding that pretty hard to believe.  I've seen a number of LED installations with no capacitor, and they all flicker at least as bad as incandescent lights on dirty track and/or switches.  The LED will react faster to a power interruption than the incandescent bulb.

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×