Is there a way to test'

Anyone have any ideas on the question above'...

Which board set are you exactly working on Ted?...there’s quite a few,...railsounds for a locomotive?....sound commander?....got a product number?....some more hints would help too buddy,....totally dead??...some sounds?...is this a conventional install or under command?...

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Which board set are you exactly working on Ted?...there’s quite a few,...railsounds for a locomotive?....sound commander?....got a product number?....some more hints would help too buddy,....totally dead??...some sounds?...is this a conventional install or under command?...

Pat

It says cruise commander in the pic above Pat. I'm guessing that's it. But never assume.  Felix Unger taught us that...

@E-UNIT-79 posted:

It says cruise commander in the pic above Pat. I'm guessing that's it. But never assume.  Felix Unger taught us that...

One never knows buddy,....he spelled out railsounds and something about twisting a screwdriver, ....if he twisted anything but the screw lugs on a CC, ..to be sure it was curtains for it,...☺️☺️☺️.....assume sure can be broken down into it’s root words around here!...🤣🤣🤣

Pat

Pat, I have installed several ERR sound only kits in locos.  This one was working fine as I tested it several times as I was installing it.  I did adjust the volume with a small metal screw driver... no wires touching, mounted on foam board.  The only thing I didn't do was place a baggy over the unit as I usually do, as nothing was touching the unit.....  I placed the plastic shell on and track tested it.  Nothing... This is the regula ERR sound board for a diesel that sells for $95.00 from Scott Man'...........

I was wondering if anyone knew of a testing system other than hooking it up to a transformer directly, as was mentioned by another forum member...

It is not a commander unit as shown in the photo.  Probably should find a picture of the actual ERR sound board.....

Thanks for your interest'..

Test your power and ground coming into the RS board. Verify they are good. Also look for loose pins on the connectors. Cold solder joints can happen, if everything looks ok, I’d contact Scott and let him know what happened........

Pat

Pat,  I was thinking last night'.. When installing the unit'.. I was testing with DC power... Track power is AC... I wonder if it converting correctly.  I've always installed, and used the same dc power for testing and have never had a problem.......

@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:

Pat,  I was thinking last night'.. When installing the unit'.. I was testing with DC power... Track power is AC... I wonder if it converting correctly.  I've always installed, and used the same dc power for testing and have never had a problem.......

I’ve never tested RS boards with DC, so I can’t answer that, ....maybe John, or Pete, or somebody else can answer that one, ....but I know if I was Scott, the first thing I’d ask is if you verified a known good ground coming in on the black wire, and track power on the red wire,....that should at least lead to start up sounds,.....did you check the red & black wire’s pin outs for loose pins?...also trace the speaker wires from their pins all the way to the speaker leads themselves ,......I just recently had a RS lite board with cold solder joint on incoming power,....wiggled the connector, and it tried to come to life,....re-touched the pin with a soldering iron, all was well,....can’t imagine you killed the board that quickly,.....I’d check the plug you had to make up that applies power & ground and verify voltage and ground are at the pins,....do that unplugged from the RS,......don’t go probing around a live board,....things can go poof in the night,...😁

Pat

  Thanks very much for your input'.. I'll give it a shot.. I spent a lot of time and money on these F-7s detailing them..  the full works'.. I'd really like to get the sound working'...

Let everybody know what you find, or don’t find,.....it’s all helpful for the next guy,..😉

Pat

I can't imagine how you test the audio boards with DC power, you'd get continuous whistle or bell.  In any case, they're designed for AC power.

FWIW, I always use a little metal screwdriver for volume adjustments on the RS-Lite boards, I've never had a problem.

To do a basic test, all you need is power to the 2-pin power input and a speaker.  That will give you whistle & bell and background sounds for steam or prime mover sounds for diesel.