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Well, after much help from my friends on the forum and suggestions from many people I have (I think) finalized my track plan.  I have read Barry's book and used his recommendations.  I have attached my layout and would like to hear some feedback on what members think of my isolated blocks.  I am using 1 TIU and will be operating the inner loop on a fixed channel and the outer loop on another fixed channel.  I have 12 blocks on one and 15 on another (I realize that's the max you recommend Barry with my REV 13 TIU).  I plan to isolate each block (designated by colors) with an insulating pin.  I still have a question or two:

 

1.  Is there any special wiring needed on the switches?  I tried to place the switches at the end of an isolated block.  I read about problems with Atlas turnouts losing power as engines cross them although I never had this problem in the past.

2.  I plan to place MTH feeder wires in the middle of each block and run 14 AWG to the terminal block then to the TIU.

3.  I have a lot of extra lengths of track from my previous layout.  I remember reading that the less track sections in each block - the better.  If that's the case would it be recommended to replace let's say two 10" sections with one 20" section??  Or am I getting too paranoid?

4.  After talking with my "train guy" at my LHS he said it would be best to ground (C) both outside rails.  He suggested running a common wire from the terminal block to one outside rail then connecting that outside rail with a wire under the table to the other outside rail.  Is this necessary?

 

Regards,

Paul

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  • ISOLATED TRACK BLOCKS #2
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Paul,

 

Based upon  your diagram, I'd answer your questions as follows:

1.  Is there any special wiring needed on the switches?  I tried to place the switches at the end of an isolated block.  I read about problems with Atlas turnouts losing power as engines cross them although I never had this problem in the past.

Atlas switch tracks use a vey light gauge wire to connect the three legs of each switch. Based upon your diagram, I'd suggest that you start by removing those wires completely.

 

Then, for those switch tracks that are in the middle of a track block, use a 16 gauge wire to reconnect the two legs of the switch that are in the block, leaving the third leg unconnected. Then connect the third leg normally to its track block so that the third leg gets its power form the other block.

 

For any switch tracks that are at the junction of three blocks, leave the internal wires disconnected and let each leg of the switch track get its power from its own track block.

 

For those switch tracks that are used in pairs as a crossover, wire one of them (either one, it makes no difference which one) as described above for switch tracks that are in the middle of a block. Then wire the other one of the pair so that all three legs are connected.

2.  I plan to place MTH feeder wires in the middle of each block and run 14 AWG to the terminal block then to the TIU.

That's fine.

3.  I have a lot of extra lengths of track from my previous layout.  I remember reading that the less track sections in each block - the better.  If that's the case would it be recommended to replace let's say two 10" sections with one 20" section??  Or am I getting too paranoid?

Fewer track sections is always better than more track sections that total the same length. You're not being paranoid, however, you may be getting a little OCD.  

4.  After talking with my "train guy" at my LHS he said it would be best to ground (C) both outside rails.  He suggested running a common wire from the terminal block to one outside rail then connecting that outside rail with a wire under the table to the other outside rail.  Is this necessary?

It's not necessary and it is a little bit of overkill.

 

Just be sure that the engines always have at least one wheel that doesn't have a traction tire, sitting on a rail directly connected to Common. By using only one of the two outside rails instead of both, you'll always have an insulated rail available for signalling or for train activated accessories.

Barry - thanx again for your help.  

As far as my #1 question goes - I'm trying to understand what the reasoning is for changing the wiring on all the switches.  I could understand changing the wire to a heavier gauge as you said they are made with a lighter gauge wire.  I'm going to take a close look at the underside of one of my switches tomorrow and try to make sense of it.  

I kind of thought that adding another ground wire to the other outside rail was overkill.

Thanx again - have a great weekend!

Paul

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