Give it a couple of days to see if the yellow flakes off.  If it's not thick I'd say it's good to go.  An old toothbrush may help.

You should be fine with an undercoat or primer.    I have recently been spraying a medium grey on models before putting on the final coat.    In my opinion it takes care or a lot of that.   As long as the lettering is gone and the side/end is smooth it will cover.   the grey may show some u nderneath variations through, but the final coat will not.    And since you are working with black, the black will cover very weill.

Bob Delbridge posted:

 An old toothbrush may help.

A soft brass wire brush about the size of a toothbrush is a useful tool to have in the shop.

I have been using an old toothbrush.  I was hesitant to use brass thinking it might scratch.

Those two parts are back in the alcohol for another day.  

I'm hopeful since they are ends and somewhat hidden by the frame and ladders that any color variation will look like a shadow.

Ron

IMO it's not really necessary to get all the color off, if the base is solid and clean, just paint it!  By the time you prime and paint, the color will be gone. 

Ron

What road/product are you re-making the hopper into please continue posting .. we would love to see the finished product.  Also is your re-painting by airbrush or rattle can?

L.I.TRAIN posted:

Ron

What road/product are you re-making the hopper into please continue posting .. we would love to see the finished product.  Also is your re-painting by airbrush or rattle can?

Hi Steve, 

This is my first strip and repaint.  I am using an Airbrush (rookie at that too) that my Wife just bought me.  A couple of months ago I purchased this Iowa State Quarter Car for a friend of mine who is from Iowa.  He asked me to weather it for him (my first try at that too).  I guess he liked it because he asked me to make him a University of Iowa car.  We picked the 2 bay hopper because of it's lack of panel lines.  I wanted the decal job to be as neat at possible.  I attached a concept photo.  The car number is the year the University was founded.

I'm toying with the idea of making the ladders and top walkway yellow to make the school colors

Feedback, thoughts and ideas always welcome.

Thanks

Ron

Ron,

I like the concept. I just bought these Lionel D&H hoppers off the forum. Might give you some inspiration. The tops are contrasting (blue top/ yellow walks and doors, and visa-versa on the blue car)

Bob

Oooo, I like those Bob.

Would I have to start over or could I put the yellow over the black?

I'm no expert when it comes to painting trains but I think a coat of primer would mask the black enough to not bleed through a lighter color.

Bob

I wouldn't worry about it, if you go through that kind of effort and the paint doesn't come off, you can likely prime and paint without any issues and from my perspective if you try to get it off you might end up causing more damage. 

An old topcoat may or may not react to new topcoat; it is still iffy. (an old topcoat may hold where a new coat of the same paint may fail because it is fully set. (dry to the touch is NOT set paint. It may not stop drying fully for a year)  

It depends on what you spray on it.  Primer usually seals and separates a topcoat from the base surface. They tend to be less reactive to other paints too.   

You will see any paint edges , any remaining color must have feathered edges. If it is a tint/stain/light grainy color you should be ok. (but watch for color pigment rising to the top of fresh paint (magnifying glass)

Ron045 posted:

L.I.TRAIN posted:

Ron

What road/product are you re-making the hopper into please continue posting .. we would love to see the finished product.  Also is your re-painting by airbrush or rattle can?

Hi Steve, 

This is my first strip and repaint.  I am using an Airbrush (rookie at that too) that my Wife just bought me.  A couple of months ago I purchased this Iowa State Quarter Car for a friend of mine who is from Iowa.  He asked me to weather it for him (my first try at that too).  I guess he liked it because he asked me to make him a University of Iowa car.  We picked the 2 bay hopper because of it's lack of panel lines.  I wanted the decal job to be as neat at possible.  I attached a concept photo.  The car number is the year the University was founded.

I'm toying with the idea of making the ladders and top walkway yellow to make the school colors

Feedback, thoughts and ideas always welcome.

Thanks

Ron

 

Nice car. It would look better in NEBRASKA colors.

Dick, born in North Platte, living in Sioux City.

I went for the two tone color with a Yellow roof as Bob (RSJB18) suggested.  It came out ok.  I applied my store purchased decals for all of the generic print.  That came out OK too.

I printed my custom decals on clear paper.  You can't even see the yellow 1847 number in this picture.  Glad I purchased white decal paper too.  I have to modify them a little bit.  Hope to do that today.

Ron

So here is the final product.  I applied a Tamiya Gloss Clear X22 over the decals and it really showed all my mistakes.  After 24 hours I applied Krylon Matte Medium from a rattle can.  I like these results much better.

For my custom decals I had to use white paper.  I was not really thrilled with what I used because if you look closely you can see a white ring around the outside of the decal.  This is actually the side of the paper that did not get any color from the printer.

I REALLY like the two tone paint and want to thank Bob (RSJB18) for showing me his models and recommending it.  It really pops with the top doors and roof walk.  Thank You Bob!

My next project is a 44 Ton.  Although no custom decals this time.  I think I'm going for a fantasy road name.  It's a real railroad, they just never owned a 44 ton.  

I hope my friend likes this.  Thanks all for the advice above.  You made my first attempt a little easier.

Have Fun!

Ron

On the round logo, the "ring" is nicely done and at least looks  like it belongs. 

Side of a color matched sharpie dragged quickly around the cut edge of the paper was all you needed too   

 The Hawkeye;  because the white lays between black and more importantly, next to yellow, the white is seen as yellow for the most part. Other dark colors as a border could make it even less noticeable, but even with the normally cruel eye of the camera, the white is hard to locate ;let alone notice.   (related to the blue/gold dress color trick {and other"real" magic tricks that use color})

🎨  

Nicely done.  I don't get your reluctancy to do print again  

@Adriatic posted:

 

Side of a color matched sharpie dragged quickly around the cut edge of the paper was all you needed too   

[Smack self in head] Yep, that would have worked.  Maybe next time.

 

Nicely done.  I don't get your reluctancy to do print again  

I did not mean to infer I would not do it again.  But given the choice of professional decals or home made, I think I would opt for professional.

Thanks for the thoughts.

Ron

Ron

THANKS for sharing I just a got 10 MTH Premeire boxcars from Chris at Nassau Hobby Center on Long Island. GREAT prices for the York Boxcars. My intent is to convert them into LIRR cars. The first three are in the stripping process and soaking in 99% Isopropyl. I already finished printing the decals, I have Tamiya primer in rattle cans and will start that process soon. For the finish coats I'll use a combination of rattle can and air brush. Like you I just got my airbrush and anxious to give it a go using either badger or mission models acrylics.

Good thread...

Funny thing Steve, I have a box of twenty or more Premier club and York boxcars, bought them for $10/ea with the intent if a mass paint job.  Still waiting to paint them, but I figured for that price they were hard to pass up.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Funny thing Steve, I have a box of twenty or more Premier club and York boxcars, bought them for $10/ea with the intent if a mass paint job.  Still waiting to paint them, but I figured for that price they were hard to pass up.

john

These ares have real solid decals  which are tough to get off the car. So far the four I have cleaned are taking at least a 72 hour soak in the 99% alcohol bath. good luck with yours

Where are you folks getting your 91-99% alcohol? Stocked up before the "latest Chinese import"?

---PCJ

@L.I.TRAIN posted:

These ares have real solid decals  which are tough to get off the car. So far the four I have cleaned are taking at least a 72 hour soak in the 99% alcohol bath. good luck with yours

Bead blasting, it'll take them all off.