k-line kcc 906 mp-15 forward revere switch unwired

From the looks of it, it does not have a reverse unit rather just a rectifier for DC power.  You would need a different switch with 6 terminals to have a selectable method for switching DC polarity.  G

Probably why the switch wasn't wired.

I have the original switch for this loco.  Free for the taking - e-mail is in my profile.  It's not doing me any good.  I turned my MP-15 into a PS2 dummy.

Tony, GGG is right in that someone has modified this engine. For one thing, on all the locomotives of this type, K-Line never used wire shrink tubing: They used masking tape over the wire ends.

Someone added the bridge rectifier so that the engine will run in ONE direction only on AC current (not DC). Without the bridge, you could run the engine on DC current provided you have a DC power source. Otherwise a bridge rectifier is needed.

You can see one of the two plastic mounts to the left of the switch, where the electronic reverse board was once located. The disconnected switch that is there, is a lock out switch, originally wired to the circuit reverse board, so that by turning the switch, the engine will run in one direction only.

The switch alone won't do anything. And getting a new lockout switch is useless without having the circuit board reverse unit.

If you want to run the engine forward and reverse, the best thing to do would be to get a K-Line reverse unit circuit board as it will fit exactly on the plastic mounts with the pre-drilled holes in the circuit board. I just checked Brasseur's and they're now $30.00 (I remember when they were only $17.00) and you'll have to solder the wires to the existing lockout switch - or do away with the lock out switch.

You might be able to use a normal Lionel make circuit board reverse unit, but make sure it is the right width so that the shell will fit over it. And you might have to cob a different mounting arrangement, since the holes will probably be in different locations.

The other option is if you have a decent DC power pack, you can run the loco on DC and get forward and reverse via the directional switch on the power pack. Lionel used to make a conversion box so that you could use regular Lionel transformers with DC powered G scale trains.

There is an advantage for having a DC current option on your layout if you run smaller locomotives like the Lionel Industrial Switcher from the mid-1990's. By removing the circuit board, you have more room inside the loco for added weight, which really improves operation of the otherwise very light weight engine.

The other option as GGG suggested, is getting a double pole double throw switch to replace the one that is there, and rewire the engine. BUT you'll have to reach beneath the engine every time you want to change direction.

One more option would be to simply buy another K-Line KCC Kennecott MP-15 (making sure it hasn't been modified) and to keep the one you have for parts. The KCC MP-15 is one of the more commonly available and affordable of the K-Line MP-15's on the secondary market. I'm sure that's the model you have, as it was the only MP-15 K-Line made with a green frame and matching green handrails.

None of those parts are being made anymore, and the similar type Lionel DC motor will not work with the gearing arrangement K-Line used. So you would have 2 working motor trucks should you need to replace one in the future. This would be far more cost effective that buying a motor truck from a parts vendor.

brianel_k-lineguy posted:

...Someone added the bridge rectifier so that the engine will run in ONE direction only on AC current (not DC)...

It will also run on DC fine, and will run in the same direction as on AC.

Yep.

(there is what seems to be a 6 terminal dpdt to the left the bridge rectifier)

Give me a bit to find a diagram; simple stuff.

It took a long time, google is busy messing up the net again, & I still had to borrow a shot of similar because it won't let me access my G-Drive cloud either.

 The square item to the right mentioned above, is a bridge rectifier changing AC to DC, two corners go to AC(~) power (chassis/rollers) the other 2 are dc (+)& (-) going to the motor. You need to add jumpers A to F & B to E; +/- can be swapped on motor or input.

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A bridge rectifier fed dc to the AC side, will still output dc, so it being there doesn't stop you from using AC or DC transformers.

AC motors on DC usually run fine. DC motors on AC will toast fast, so that is why the BR is there, you most likely have a dc can motor.