Kadees on GGD Smoothside Cars

The medium shank couplers should work just fine for that large of a curve. You won't need an offset coupler, the center set(normal) shank will be just fine if you are using the GGD mounting brackets. I body mounted the older 805's which are medium length couplers and I run my cars on an 072 curve which is a 36" radius. If you have a 68" radius, that's almost double what I run my cars on without any hassle.

Agree - 805's work without issue on my tightest curve (60"). John Sethian has a capacitor fix to eliminate flicker for those using fixed voltage (DCS or DCC). John and I are awaiting delivery of several GGD LED strips which we’ll cannibalize for matching LEDS that we’ll add for balanced lighting the full length of the car (Obs lounge is too dark). Some other mods I’ll be doing while the car is “open” is to add passengers, repaint the seats, lower the floor, and install aisle rails.  I’ll also be looking for replacement diaphragms to address the “high water” look.  The GGD cars are very nice – with a little effort they can be made even better. 

Ed Rappe

Gentlemen,

Thank you for your comments.  

One more question:  Is there any need to use a plastic draft gear box?

Thanks again,

Ed

Keystoned Ed said:

Some other mods I’ll be doing while the car is “open” is to ............ lower the floor,

How you do that will be welcome information!

Nope.... no "NEED" to, but you can if you wish.

Rex

The plastic floor with the interior details sits about .100" above the steel under frame on bushings.  Several of my cars had visibly wavy floors (and flying tables in the diner) due to the weak plastic floor and insufficient density of spacer bushings.  Raising the plastic floor above the metal underframe was done so the wire from the trucks could run between the two floors and to provide clearance for the plastic nubs associated with the seats and tables.  Also protruding slightly below the plastic floor are the heads of the very small machine screws that attach the brass room and aisle walls to the plastic floor.  Those screws only need about .010 clearance.  I've rerouting the wires below the metal floor but out of sight above the plastic underbody detail casting.  I've filed the plastic furniture's nubs flush with the plastic floor underside, and  have cemented several .010 plastic strips to the underside of the plastic floor to act as full length spacers. This lowers the interior about 4 scale inches.  The floor is reattached to the underframe with the original screws - less the .100" spacers.and eliminates the wave.By doing so I address two issues.  Completion of the project is pending recept of the additional LED's for the lounge area.

Ed Rappe