I'm installing DCC decoders in a pair of Key PRR E8’s. The 4 lighting circuits (headlight, backup light, number board, cab light) ) are set up with incandescent bulbs connected to a circuit board located under the cab. Does anyone know the voltage and current draw ratings of incandescent bulbs Key uses in their diesels. I removed one of the bulbs and tested it on the workbench with a 1.5v battery - it seemed rather dim. I expect 12 volts would fry the bulb. Knowing the bulbs' specs would enable me to size the resistor for series wiring the bulbs to the decoder's 13.4v lighting function outputs.
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Ed, I installed a QSI Titan in my Key Rick Island E6. Key uses Japanese Miniatronics 1.5v bulbs. You can use a 1.5v remote control battery to test them, if they are dim it may be because of an older battery.
What about an LED?
Simon
Ed,
I would test wire one to the decoder with a resistor for 1.5 volts and see what you get. It appears that it is highly likely to be 1.5 v.
Thanks for the replies guys. What was throwing me was at 1.5 v the headlight in the model was dimmer than those in my other locomotives. On the workbench (I pretest decoders on a stand made using an old motor, speaker, and Radio Shack test board) I found that I needed to drive the bulb at around 2v to get a headlight brightness I like. I'm ok with the number boards being dimmer than the headlight. I started out the installation wanting to retain the Key bulbs as they are sized to fit the headlight reflectors and number board fixtures on the model - but I'm open to a change. It's raining today so I'll play around with several bulbs and LEDS I have on hand before deciding which way to go.
Below is the setup I use to test decoders before starting an installation.
Attachments
Ed, please share your installation with the forum. Installation in high end brass are rare. I’d be interested in knowing what decoder you’re using and your report on the results.
I'd say if the bulbs fit well, just figure out a resistor to get them the brightness you like. I was going to say, I had some in a freind's sunset 2-8-8-2 (HH1) that behaved the same way and I thought I needed about 3.5 V but I am not sure I am remembering right.
Ed, I see that you’re using a Loksound decoder. Please share your thoughts on motor control. I installed a V4 on my sunset E9, and the canon motor buzzed VERY loudly. So much I had to turn the BEFM off. The buzz also made the lights flicker, very disappointing. I tried everything, nothing helped.
Santiago, I think that's a Tsunami2 TSU4400.
By the way, the new LS5DCC decoders have much improved motor control with several more CV settings that can eliminate the hum and give better starting and slow running with a wide rang of motors.
Sorry for the quick off-topic there Ed!
Pete
Thanks, Pet. You’re right, lazy me just typing away.
The decoders I’m installing in the Key E8’s are SoundTraxx Tsunami2 TS4400. Yesterday I bench tested a 3mm warm white LED in the E8’s body shell with excellent results. It gave off a bright/realistic looking light, fit the Key headlight and marker light fixtures nicely, and should provide long service life. I’ll need 5 LED’s for each unit (headlight, backup light, cab light, pair in the number boards). Each LED will be wired in series with a 1k ohm current limiting resistor, and connected to a independently controlled lighting port on the decoder. (6 ports available, I’ll use 4). I’ll play with CV settings to get lighting levels appropriate to the function. As with sound level settings (prime mover, horn, bell, etc.) generally I do this once the model is running on the railroad. The one setting I know in advance is crew talk - definitely muted 😀.
I ordered additional LED’s and resistors and will update the thread with some pics when the installation is complete.
Ed, FYI; I recently purchased a group of 24 warm white 3mm LED w a resistor and 6” leads attached online. Good for up to 22volts. Made my work much easier!
If you have many to do it’s a time and labor saver.