lacquer thinner, now what?

Price, I use La’s totally awesome cleaner/degreaser Concentrate. Can be found at Dollar General, Wally World and Dollar Tree. I was running low just picked up a gallon at DG $6.50. Can be used over and over, and when it gets dirty and weak, dump it and make a fresh batch!

Have used on cast, plastic and tintypes. Most paint is off overnight, some may take a day or two.
Hope this helps!

John

John,

I have used LA's Totally Awesome for a couple of years.  I should have mentioned I tried the 3rd Rail car in LA's first (three days) and the paint wasn't even phased by it.  I find MOST Weaver paint responds well to LA's (exceptions being silver and white/off white).  I find that K-Line paint responds well to 91% isopropyl alcohol. 

Obviously lacquer thinner cannot be used on plastics, but I had heretofore considered it the nuclear weapon of paint removal if the substrate was appropriate.

Appreciate the input, but still looking for guidance.  Thanks.

Price

How old was the lacquer thinner you used? …….it can lose it’s punch with age.

I’ve tried the Awesome from DG, etc, …..it does work on on some acrylics, but urethanes and enamels, no way,….all it did was a good cleaning job. Great for removing lettering & graphics.

Pat

Pat,

The lacquer thinner (Jasco) was purchased same day as use of same.  It came from Lowes, so I can't say how long it had been on the shelf prior to purchase...  Thoughts?  Thanks.

Price

Try some DOT3 brake fluid.

Big Jim,

OK I'm willing to try that, but how about some parameters?  I'll wear gloves when handling, but use a metal container as a pan like lacquer thinner?  How long should I leave it in - a day, a week, longer?  Thanks.

Price

I’ve never had an issue using lacquer thinner to strip brass, …..even 3rd Rail’s stuff,…..however, I’ve never used that particular brand of lacquer thinner. I get mine from automotive refinishing suppliers ( DuPont # 105 ) …..usually within a couple hours, all the paint is gone ….maybe a small stubborn spot here or there, but a brass bristle brush makes short work of that as the paint usually is softened at least…….So the only advice I can conjure up is the product you’re getting off the shelf of the box stores is not the same I’m using??…..perhaps the composition of that particular brand makes it unsuitable for the task you want it to do,……might be a fluke thing too,…..just out of curiosity, does that brand have a country of origin?…..

Pat

Pat,

Thanks for the input.  I'll have to look tomorrow and see if it says where it was made.  I'll see which I can find first- DuPont #105, or DOT 3 brake fluid.  I'm in this far, so I have to see it through!  Thanks.

Price

@The Shadow posted:

Pat,

Thanks for the input.  I'll have to look tomorrow and see if it says where it was made.  I'll see which I can find first- DuPont #105, or DOT 3 brake fluid.  I'm in this far, so I have to see it through!  Thanks.

Price

Fair warning, 105 will be twice the price of the other brands ……I’ve used Kleen Strip’s brand before too, with good results……I know it’s available in quart cans as well,….maybe this car is just stubborn, …..Try Big Jim’s trick, ….brake fluid is cheap, and available everywhere……

Pat

I most recently used 91% iso to strip plastic and it worked well. Decades ago, I used DOT 3 brake fluid, but some have advised against it--I don't remember why.

The rule of thumb is "like dissolves like." The vehicle in the original paint is the key to what will strip it. Perhaps Scott Mann at 3rd Rail can speak to the original paint?

Pat I use the concentrate, have tried the diluted version that they also sell it does not work, just good for cleaning. Just finished stripping a  prewar 263e  and 263t. Clean as a whistle overnight.

John

@Ken Wing posted:

I most recently used 91% iso to strip plastic and it worked well. Decades ago, I used DOT 3 brake fluid, but some have advised against it--I don't remember why.

The rule of thumb is "like dissolves like." The vehicle in the original paint is the key to what will strip it. Perhaps Scott Mann at 3rd Rail can speak to the original paint?

I’ve been stripping automobiles, automobile parts,  and a gazzillion model trains for almost 40 years now, ….I’ve never heard like dissolves like ……aircraft stripper was our go to for anything metal for the past 35 years, …..until they took the MC  (Methylene Chloride)  out of it, rendering it useless.

Pat

@John A in N.C. posted:

Pat I use the concentrate, have tried the diluted version that they also sell it does not work, just good for cleaning. Just finished stripping a  prewar 263e  and 263t. Clean as a whistle overnight.

John

As cheap as it is, I’ll give it a second chance with full concentrate …..

Pat

@harmonyards and "like dissolves like:" my dad was a chemical engineer. I probably learned it from him. Certainly not any school chemistry class.

Not all lacquer thinners are the same. Some states, like California, have reformulated lacquer thinner to make the vapors less air polluting. California lacquer thinner is mostly acetone and it is not very effective. When I need real lacquer thinner I need to take a trip to Reno. I believe that other states, maybe Illinois and Massachusetts have made the same change. I believe the ingredients you need to see in the lacquer thinner is MEK.  

MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone.  There have been questions about environmental impact.   A quick search would yield an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for this product.

Anything that dissolves/strips paint will also damage any plastic (but nylon damage it the least).  Anything should be fine for a metal part- but in order by aggressiveness:

("safe on most plastics")  And as they get more aggressive less useful in stripping acrylic paints

Alcohol (isopropyl)- 70 then 91% 

Denatured alcohol

Mineral spirits

A citrus (BUT- just because it smells like oranges, OR "contains citrus oil" it is NOT "all the same".  State Chemical (Grease B Gone) and maybe others are 100% pure citrus oil -very expensive  but dilutes in water)

An alkalai product (floor stripper, "Totally Awesome" etc.)

(NOT safe on plastics-) and to strip acrylic and oil-based paints, enamels, lacquers, urethanes

lacquer thinner (contains acetone)

acetone

brake fluid

MEK

@David Johnston posted:

Not all lacquer thinners are the same.

True. The formula for lacquer thinner varies widely depending on manufacturer

I believe the ingredients you need to see in the lacquer thinner is MEK.  

No.  No MEK in lacquer thinner.

Lacquer thinner:

Methanol {Methyl alcohol; Carbinol; Wood alcohol}       25.0 -35.0 %
Acetone {2-Propanone}          20.0 -30.0 %
Petroleum Hydrocarbon Mixture (Alkanes and
Cycloalkanes)          20.0 -30.0 %
Acetic acid, ethyl ester {Ethyl acetate}          <15.0 %
Toluene {Benzene, Methyl-; Toluol}          < 5.0 %
Ethanol, 2-Butoxy- {Ethylene glycol n-butyl ether,
(a glycol ether)}          < 5.0 %

A lot of these procedures with alcohol, brake fluid, etc. to me are time consuming.  I just want to get the job done, not overnight.  Use a Kleen Strip or equivalent paint remover, sit for an hour, hose it off, then water pik, dry it, then second coat of Kleen Strip, etc.  In 3 - 4 hours it is done.  Use outside if above freezing.  Now just before primer, a quick cleanoff with laquer thinner to remove residue.  Blow dry with compressor.

Use a Kleen Strip or equivalent paint remover, sit for an hour, hose it off, then water pik, dry it, then second coat of Kleen Strip, etc.  In 3 - 4 hours it is done.

I have not found the current Kleen Strip product to be of any use even when soaking overnight at removing paint from much of anything, metal or wood.  The elimination of MC has basically ended retail paint removers.

I was having problems removing some oil based paint from anodized aluminum.  A friend recommended CitriStrip Gel.  Paint on generous amount. Let it soak for about 1/2 hour, paint-on second coat if hasn't loosened.  Should brush right off using an old toothbrush.  Rinse thoroughly with water.  It took off paint easily, did not harm the anodized aluminum.  Thinking it would be safe on brass.  But you know what they say about free advice.  Best of luck.

I use powdered laundry detergent on tinplate and it works great. Don't know about brass though maybe you can try it. get an old pot put about a cup in and boil it for about ten minutes.

@jim mcclain posted:

I use powdered laundry detergent on tinplate and it works great. Don't know about brass though maybe you can try it. get an old pot put about a cup in and boil it for about ten minutes.

DO NOT DO THIS TO BRASS!!!…..Brass sheet will warp at boil temperatures!!…..you can get away with sheet steel, but not sheet brass!!….

Pat

Pat thanks for saying that I didn't know

Try dipping the shell into a new batch of Lacquer thinner or acetone.  You may have depleted the usefulness of the first batch.

Well, I have to say that there has been some really good advice here.  I did buy some DOT 3 brake fluid and left the car in that for several days.  I originally used a tooth brush to try to remove the paint after the DOT 3 bath, but that wouldn't do it.  I bought a cheap brass bristle brush as suggested and the paint did come off with a little bit of elbow grease.  I put it back in to see if I can get just a little more off, but at least I'm making progress now.

I respect the list above regarding the aggressiveness of paint strippers, but I have noticed personally that Weaver painted cars usually respond well to the LA's Totally Awesome.  However, Weaver white, off white, and silver are very hard to remove with LA's.

I put a couple of K-Line heavyweights into LA's and the paint was unbothered after a week.  I then put the heavyweights into 91% isopropyl alcohol and the paint was practically coming off the shell as I placed it into the bath.

Thanks for all your input.

Price

I was in my hobby shop the other day and saw a bottle of Deluxe Materials 'Strip Magic', and bought it to try,  but I have not tried it yet.  Anybody have experience with this product?  It has a tip like a glue bottle, apparently more of a gel than a liquid,  and wanted to use it in some tight areas without having to spread it all over.