Lashing two RMT beeps

?? how do u open shell on beeps would like to add mu  to engs as i have long sw s can u just plug into circuit board [pre 2011] thnx fjc      ur problem may be out of phase

There are screws underneath to remove the shell - four I think, and the shell comes off easily enough.  

Before you do that though, BEEPs are robust and seldom give problems.  So do this test to make sure you have a problem.  Realize that the tether only connects the pickup wires of both to one another, so they feed through one another's electrical contact - thus avoiding the dreaded switched stall BEEPs are prone to.  So it is possible to get the e-units out of sync with one another: the two BEEPS are sharing each other's power source, but one thinks he's been told to go forward, the other backward, or one is in neutral, the other not, etc.  

To test if this was the case, switch both of them to forward only (and make sure both are in the same switch position), then tether them and run them (with both pointing in the same direction) and see if they don't behave.  

Thanks Lee. You were correct about the e-units being out of synch.  I first tried your test of running both forward only.  In that mode, one of the beeps only runs backwards, so they were pulling against each other.  I tested that beep individually and it still only runs backwards when in 'forward only'.  So I guess that's a separate issue. (not a big deal as I'll probably always have e-unit on).

I then ran both individually with e-units on and ran through identical sequences.  After re-tethering they were still out of synch, but I cycled through r-n-f a couple of times then they took off.  They're running great now.  Thanks again.

Chris

i used avery bright flashlight and examined entire underbody of my BEEPS could not find screws  is it a snap fit ?? saw 4 screws holding down axels but do not think they are right to remove shell d&H ,lirr want to add thethers to units thnx

You can take the body off by pulling out on both sides and slipping it off - it is a press fit held in place -- there is a peg that goes into a small hole in each side about mid way in the body, the hole labeled "Fuel."  If you pull the body out a bit from each the peg will slip up and the body will remove.  

But to disassemble the loco or remove its boards, etc., once you have the body off you have to start removing those screws.  Don't remove the ones on the underside - they do hold the axles on.

Out of curiosity - what type of transformer are you using?  I just got a set of two A BEEFs and a powered B (I believe they share the same chassis as the BEEP) and the lowest starting voltage of ~4 volts on my Lionel PWC ZW is too high.  They jump at start up and when stopping they jerk hard enough to derail a gondola in the consist.  I have been trying diodes between the transformer and track to lower the voltage which is helping.

Looking for a longer term solution - perhaps a BEEF / BEEP only transformer, etc.

Thanks!

I had a pair myself that featured a small plug between two of the units.

They were nice little units that worked only one way for me, cab forward for both of them. I think the max they handled in the yard lead test was about 12 cars.

How much rope did it take to "lash up" those two units? Don't tie off to the handrails...they will bend.

Lashup....what a horrible term.

Looking for a longer term solution - perhaps a BEEF / BEEP only transformer, etc.

Luther, try a Lionel CW-80, they have a near zero minimum starting voltage, and are Excellent for locomotives like the Beeps, that have a very low starting voltage.

 Another tip, my beeps when shut down for about 15 seconds or so will default to either neutral or forwards, I forget which at the moment, but they will resynch after a short power down. Also if you like to run them back to back rather than Circus Elephant style nose to tail, take the shell off of ONE of your beeps, then re-install it backwards, they will fit either direction.

Doug

I run my BEEPS and BEEFS on CW-80s mostly, but the run well on a Z4000, too. 

Earlier BEEPs (before RMT added the teather) had a different electronics e-board driving the motor and responded much less like a jackrabbit.  When I got the first BEEF and/or BEEPs with teathers I thought RMT had re-geared them, the difference was so great, but Walter M. replied ont his forum that no, it was just a change in the response behavior designed into the electronics. 

Still, I've had no big issues - jackrab bit starting with either the CW-80 or the Z4000 (only two transfromers I use) is not too bad, and with care one ca set speed fairly slow if you want.  My BEEPS and BEEFs are also pretty consistent in cycling, as they should, though forward, neutral, reverse, etc., with each shut down cycle, as they should be.  The shells of  both BEEPs and BEEFs do reverse as observed, a neat feature.

Doug - Thanks for your tip regarding the power down.  I'm finding that when both are facing forward, I need to do the additional power cycle.

When both are facing 'backwards' they start up in synch on the first attempt.

Chris

Thanks for the info on the transformers.  I was able to wire in a CW-80 this weekend and the BEEFs run great!

Great!  they are fun little locos and very robust.  You should have no troubles with them.  Cute, too.

Hi Chris, You are welcome for the tip, another tip for you, what you are thinking of "Forwards" and "Backwards" might actually be Backwards, with the Beeps, they are actually designated Long Hood as the "Front".  If you look at the side sill under the walkway, just behind the steps on the Long Hood end, you will see a little"F" painted there, that designates that end as the "Front". That is something that is required on locomotives to avoid confusion about which way the locomotive will move when a crewman instructs the engineer to move forwards or backwards. On an EMD "F" or "E" unit, or Alco "FA" or "PA" and similar locomotives, which end is the "Front" is pretty obvious, but with the GP7's and 9's, SD7's and 9's and Alco RS 1,2,3"s and thier family, it wasn't as obvious, those could be ordered set up for either end to be the front. Even double ended locomotives Like the GG1 and some other electrics would still have one end designated the front, even though both cabs/ends were identical. which end is the front was also critical for writing up defects for the shop forces to make repairs and for other maintainance reasons. Which end is the "Front" could be very important, even though it may not be as obvious as it seems. RMT putting that little "F" on the sill is just another example of the attention to detail that Walter does, even if the Locomotives aren't replicas of any real prototype.

Doug

still looking for teathers to retro fit my older beeps will the aristo lgbs work are they compatable with new beeps??? want  to MU them {NOT MAKE a lashup}can't find strong enough rope  rich