Latex or oil paint for laser cut wood

I've never tried it, so I can't say it doesn't work or does, but personally I would not try to use lacquer dullcoat for a sealer, etc.  I'd recommend getting some good oil based paint, or priming/sealing it first.  I've had only a few bad experiences with water-based paints warping wooden items I made, but when it happened, it was really bad.  Basswood - often used for kits and lasered wood parts - is often incredibly prone to warping and swelling when hit by even a little moisture. 

You need to at least prime it with a oil base. I had thin wood warp on me by using water based paint (a diner kit).

It's usually a matter of small detail.  The more coats of paint, including the primer the less visible detail.  Paint also tends to complicate assembly, requiring slightly more agressive adhesives/glue.  White (Elmers) wood glue, that dries clear, is easy to use. Minimal clean-up.  With the paint involved a more agressive (yellow carpenters glue, epoxy, or Cyano-acrylate, (CA) super glue may be required.  Yellow carpenters glue, and other more agressive glues will require clean up after application and touch-up of pre-painted pieces.   In general the more gloss (paint) the less adhesion from the glue, which requires penetration.   Also expect the thin wood pieces to react to painting on one side. The wood most likely will curve as the pieces dry.  Be patient, usually application of paint to both sides corrects this. 

I would follow Rich's instruction, he is an excellent modeler. 

Jeff,

I've had good results with wood kits using a spray primer like Rustoleum gray or one of the other popular spray brands. I spray all the parts, both sides, while still attached to the laser cards.

Then, I use acrylics with no warping problem.  You can hand paint or use an airbrush.

Bill

All good questions, and lots of ways to do things.

On the radio tower, I suggest using the enamel paint.  First is a base white cost (typically two coats) then the red liens are added using blue painter tape to mask the lines.

In this case it is important to assemble the model first then paint it.  Two reasons, one the paint covers several things such as the wire for the LED lights, and it also covers some of the seams.  Second is that the parts are notched to provide a alignment of the sides to make sure the sections line up.  These notches have some play, but you really done want paint build up on these ares and the seams that you need to glue.

The spray paint is inexpensive, I think the walmart red I used was about $1 per can, and the rustolium white was more, but under $5.

BTW I did not prime the tower before painting, but probably is not a bad idea.

I hope this helps.

Rich

Thank you everyone for your input. I decided to use Krylon White on top of a gray primer base.

It really is quite an impressive radio tower. I have a spot picked out for it. Hopefully it wii be in place by Friday. Im going to put it up for a few days without the radio call letters on the tower and see how it looks.  I'll then lightly tack glue the call letters in place and look at that for a few days. My gut tells me I Will like the call letters. WARM. 

I've taken to sealing all wood parts by staining with an oil based stain, both sides simultaneously. That eliminates all warping, and provides an excellent base for dry brushing color on the finished model. Staining parts before glueing them up minimizes the impact of stray glue...  bare wood is the enemy! LOL