Layout Help

mike g. posted:

Hi Dave, I didnt relize I was doing that, can you tell me how to delete some of these other files?

Mike, I'm not sure what we're talking about here, so I hope I didn't make you think I was complaining about something.

That said, if you don't understand my instructions, just say so. I don't know what version of Windows you're using, assuming it's Windows, or how familiar you are with it, so I'll start with what I do when I need to delete a file. If the instructions are not basic enough, let me know what you are using and I'll try to come up with some more detailed instructions or point you to a You Tube video or something.

Anyway, I believe SCARM stores its files in "Documents/My SCARM" by default. If you didn't change it when you installed SCARM, use File Explorer to open the "My SCARM" folder. I use File Explorer in Windows 10, but it was called Windows Explorer before that. When you find the file you want to delete, right-click on it and select "Delete" from the popup menu. That's all it takes.

Thanks Dave That worked GREAT!

mike g. posted:

Hi Dave, I want your opinion on something. What do you think about getting rid of that one section of track in the yard that is at the top going towards the door?

It depends on what you want the space for. You'd have to ask Carl, but I believe it's there so you have a place to store extra engines/cars. It looks like there's enough room for at least 6, but you'd have to do some switching to get at the one(s) you'd want. If you take it out, you'd have to replace the switch with a cut piece of flex to make the curve. You'd probably then still be able to store 4 cars. You must be looking for a place to put a building or something and you could certainly do that. After all, it's your layout. 

I should add that I'm not a fan of switching, so if I can't store a complete train, I don't think switches and extra tracks are worth the expense to make a yard that has limited use "for me". I do have a yard in my garage design because if I build it, I will buy extra cars to at least have alternate consists ready to go for some variety. The way I see it, you can get 8-9 cars on the bottom, 6-7 on the next rung up, 4-5 on the next and 3 on top. You can back an engine in, pick up some, pull out, back to the next rung to pick up more and then move out. I don't know if you'll do that, but you can.  

I think you might be right, its more important to have car storage then anything. I wasn't thinking about anything really just a thought.

mike g. posted:

Thanks Dave That worked GREAT!

Awesome! I wasn't sure how comfortable you are with computers, but I'm glad to see you were able to follow along.

mike g. posted:

I think you might be right, its more important to have car storage then anything. I wasn't thinking about anything really just a thought.

As long as you know you need to leave enough space for an engine to get in/out to move cars around, you're good.

Yep, just didn't know how to get there! LOL SLOW sometimes!

Yep sounds like a plan!

DoubleDAZ posted:

Carl, I'm not trying to be difficult, but the bridge tracks in every design posted so far appear to be 4.75" when I add the center line to the display and measure in SCARM. Since the tracks on the Atlas bridge are indeed 4.5" and the length is 40", I'm not sure why they were set to 4.75" and why cut pieces were used rather than two sets of 30" and 10" to make the 40" span.

There is also a thread here that suggests a 10" lead should be added to both sides for clearance of some passenger cars, but there are also photos showing O54 and O63 curves going right up to the bridge. While that part is covered by the straights and switch, so it's really a non-issue in this case, I think the bridge tracks should be corrected and made a Group so they don't accidentally get moved. I'd add the first tracks on both sides of the bridge, including the lead switch for the yard, to the Group just to make sure everything stays in sync. Everything else would then flow from the Bridge Group with the goal of retaining the 4.5" spacing all the way around and through the crossovers regardless of where those are eventually placed. I thought the switches without the fitter were correct, but we were playing off the bridge spacing and I believe it's wrong.

Also, when I look at the Eye-Candy file, I see several tracks that can't join, so I don't know if that was an attempt to repair the joints that broke or what. The only one I can't get to stay connected is the one I circled in Red.

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Depending on how you have SCARM set, I guess the connections could break, though as I said, I've only seen that here with the connections between a curve and straight. That said, I try not to put cut pieces, or even small fitters, by the curve anyway. When I need small fitters, I try to group them in the center of straight sections.

I, too, am sorry for your loss. This is not that important that you have to try to find time to comment, so tale care of what you have to and we'll get back to this when you have time again. Mike and I won't go too far with this until your situation settles down.

Mike, I'm not sure why you like the Eye-Candy version over the later version I posted. The only difference between them is that I added the crossovers like Carl mentioned and posted a wider 3D photo. I copied Carl's river, road and bridge setup and added it to mine. I also was able to connect all but the 1 joint on the left side of the circle. Unfortunately, that was before we found the Atlas bridge spacing is incorrect. Since Carl might be out of pocket for a bit dealing with his issues, I'm going to go ahead and fix mine the way I suggested above and see if I can't get the spacing and joints correct. I'll post it and Carl can take a look when he finds some time again.

Dave,

How long is the bridge? 40" Will the bridge lift up and down? Yes. Does the bridge need tracks? Yes. You are being difficult.

For the fifth time, the cut tracks not retaining their length threw everything out.

Track worries- I figure that you need about 68 pieces of 37" flex track track plus the switch count and joiners.

Shop for cases of the flex.

You could buy 3 pieces of the sectional to make jig or scribe the arcs on the table.

That would definitely save some $.

I could do that, that's what I did with my old 2 rail flex Gargraves with wooden ties!

So don't worry about the track count in the parts list from scarm?

Hi Dave, Yes I will be rounding it off nice and smooth, I also have the bridge mocked up, I don't know if you seen my video or not, but I have attached it below.

Mike, The bridge looks and operates great!!

Thanks Mark, it took 3 different try's to get it there, but I am happy with it!

Well Carl, I got this far and now I am stuck. Don't know how to get the land back on the outside of the track, and don't know how to move the land back from the inside track for a retaining wall.

Hi Carl, well it didn't take me days, but it did take a few hours. But I got it pretty darn close.

Hi Guys, I did some playing around and here is what I came up with. I know its not done still need some crossovers, but here is what I have so far. For those of you fallowing, Moonman has done most of the work and I just fallow him and try not to screw it up. Tell me what you think.