LC+ Coupler question

The "solution"....?

 

Either push the knuckle closed with your finger or couple to a train...?

If you back it up into a stationary train it seems to lock coupled.

i made the same observation Lee did.  Since we are all seeing this, it must be the way it is supposed to work.  That's okay by me.

Charging the engine in reverse into the train?

It would be no different than a Command train, right?

 

Because the rolling stock coupler is still closed, the alignment when backing up needs to be good.  If either coupler is off center it may miss.

 

When I back the engine into the rolling stock I make sure it pushes the train a track length or so before changing to fwd.   G

This is no different than the real thing.  You pull the cut lever to open the knuckle, you usually pull it by hand to make sure its open all the way.   To close it up you run the engine or car into another car with an open knuckle, preferably at 4 mph or less.  Then, with the brakes still applied to the new car you changed the direction of the engine and stretch the cars.  If everything worked right you'll be coupled up tight.  Then you give the brakemen 3 point protection and let him hook up the air - all these things be done at the brakemen or conductor's direction. 

 

In the real world getting couplers to line up can be a real challenge somedays.  Some of them just won't cooperate, some days you are stuck trying to couple cars on a curve instead of tangent track, sometimes the ballast is either incredibly uneven or covered in ice.  However some days everything works just fine, the weather is sunny, and all the little kids by the track wave as you go by. 

 

 

I've got the same LC+ loco (B&O Pacific) and just back it into the standing train to re-couple. Need to experiment with the speed. I've derailed a car or two if moving too fast.

 

Overall I get a successful recouple 99 percent of the time.

I suspect they're no different than the couplers on TMCC/Legacy.  Many of them need a "tune-up" to easily couple and uncouple.  The issue has been discussed several times, it involves removing the knuckle rivet and smoothing the mating surfaces on the knuckle. 

 

I've done this to a number of couplers, really makes a big difference, especially coupling back up.  It's no longer necessary to bash the cars with the locomotive to couple up.

Thanks for the insite on the real thing.  That has been my observation from a distance as a rail fan.  Yes coupling on the real trains or models is not an exact thing.  I am happy with my Mike.

What's a  3 point protection?     As a retired Conductor I liked working with a engineer   that kept his eye on you even though a lot of moves were made with radios.  I don't suppose there's much switching being done now with out radios. There was a hand signal for just about everything including my favourite "lunch time."   We always pulled the pin on the car being left in a yard so there car 's knuckle  was open for the next coupling.

thanks everyone.   The "un"couple works great but haven't gotten the hang of "re" coupling yet without getting physical with it.   I will keep trying, thanks for the great suggestions.