LCRU2 Replacement - Working even worse - RESOLVED

The tuner coil in the corner of the LCRU2 adjusts the receiving frequency. They can drift out of spec over time, which could be your issue. It sounds like you've already checked the antenna, but check again that it isn't ground just to be sure.

In practice, however, the drifting doesn't happen all that much. You can try adjusting it with a flat blade screwdriver (with the power OFF), maybe in 1/8 increments clockwise or counterclockwise from where it is now. I wouldn't go beyond a 1/2 turn in each direction, as the coils are somewhat fragile. You're looking for either the board to start working in TMCC mode, or at least flash the headlight to indicate you're getting close with the frequency.

But here's a kicker... I too ordered some LCRU2's from Lionel during the half off sale. One worked just fine, but the other had the exact same issue as what you're describing. After fiddling with the coil a bit, I called Lionel today for an RMA.

Hope this helps-
TRW

I'd seriously give consideration to upgrading that with the ERR AC Commander, you'll get much better low speed performance and 100 speed steps.

@PaperTRW posted:

The tuner coil in the corner of the LCRU2 adjusts the receiving frequency...*SNIP*

That solved the control issue.  I had to turn it quite a bit, maybe 1 or 1.5 full turns, I didn't count.  The sound is still just motor revs, no response to commands.  I gave it LCRU2 code 1, I don't know if that is correct or affects the Railsounds.  I am going to try GRJ's suggestion to pull the chips and reset them.  PLCC Puller ordered...

While trying to get the sound to work, I moved the railsounds board slightly in case there was a short.  This produced the sound of voices talking, quietly as if not through the speaker.  Thought it was the CrewTalk but then the voice announced the callsign to a local AM radio station!  Dialed the tuner a bit more to get rid of it.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'd seriously give consideration to upgrading that with the ERR AC Commander, you'll get much better low speed performance and 100 speed steps.

Yes, but if I go with an ERR upgrade, this loco goes to the back of the queue which is about a half-dozen long already.  And it seems since replacing the LCRU didn't fix my issue, I now have an extra one of those to work with.

I had the same problem with my  LCRU2 board  end up being a bad base  tried another and worked  perfect.

The old TMCC command base is also tunable, and it's fairly common for it to drift somewhat off frequency.

I wonder if Lionel sells pulls and returns without the ability to check them out. The ERR fix may be a safer option.

I know for a fact that Lionel and MTH ship used and refurbished parts.  Many of the parts they ship are simply cannibalized from engines either new or returns.  I've gotten a few parts that were defective from both places.

@Cheap&NothingWasted posted:

That solved the control issue.  I had to turn it quite a bit, maybe 1 or 1.5 full turns, I didn't count.  The sound is still just motor revs, no response to commands.  I gave it LCRU2 code 1, I don't know if that is correct or affects the Railsounds.  I am going to try GRJ's suggestion to pull the chips and reset them.  PLCC Puller ordered...

I gave it Code 6 and that started it working again.  Thanks for all your help.  Now that I have a full LCRU2 and RS2.5 setup spare, I'm going to put it in a Weaver Alco C-628.  I saw the other thread about wiring the LCRU2 for DC motors, but I have a couple questions regarding the auxiliary functions.  I assume I can just wire the two DC motors in parallel with the 1uF cab across each set of motor contacts.

1. Can I really wire the RS2.5 Diesel Rev Switch to the motor leads?  How might I do that without frying the RS board?  I don't want to try to retrofit in a switch to these trucks.

2. The C628s have a strobe LED. I see the LCRU2 produces a strobing effect on program code 5, but what is the voltage it supplies?   Trying to avoid burning them out.

3.  Any room left on the LCRU for a smoke unit?  I have spare MTH ones, and it's an Alco Diesel, so constant full blast is all I need.  If not I'll wire it to track power somehow with an on/off switch.

Thanks for all your help.