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LEDs in Buildings

I IrelandOGR Forum Member
I have several Plasticville buildings – farm house and barn and a few lighted MTH buildings – church, 2 story corner building and a Dairy King building – all stationary i.e lighted but no animation. 
 
I am interested in installing LEDs in the Plasticville buildings that presently do not have any lights.  Any thoughts on whether to use 1.8, 3 or 5 mm LEDs (or larger and the number per plasticville building.
 
Similarly, if I change out the incandescent lights in the 3 MTH buildings, any advice as to size and number of LEDs I should use.  I am thinking of using white lights. 
 
Thoughts on the forgoing
 
Thanks in advance.
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rtr12rtr12OGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

I have added the 12 VDC LED adhesive backed strip lights to my Ameri-Towne buildings. Very inexpensive by the roll on ebay or Amazon. Available in several color temperatures, cool white, warm white, bright white, etc. You can cut to any length (in multiples of three) that suits you as long as you cut the strip at the designated spots (every 3 LED's). 5 Meter LED Reel Example - See Dale H's LINK2 above.

 

There are also LED's available in 3 LED modules with adhesive backing. They are a little bigger than the plain strips with wires out each end. If you order 10 modules they will come with continuous wiring. Just cut off your desired amount for each building. I added a couple of links as examples of the different types. There are many to choose from and these are just a sample of what is available. LED Module Example

 

 

Last edited by rtr12
I IrelandOGR Forum Member

Thank you both for your responses.

 

One additional question on the use of the strips.  I understand the strip can be cut every 3 LEDs.  I would be using a 12V DC source and am wondering if a resistor is included in the strip before every third LED or do I need to insert a resistor into my wiring for every 3 LED lights I cut off and use.

 

Thanks

rtr12rtr12OGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

As stan2004 said, resistors are built into each 3 LED section, including the ones in the second link above. 

 

In addition to stan2004's added info, you can start with 12VDC and if the LED's are too bright you can reduce the voltage until you get what you like.  Of course, you would need an adjustable power source capable of reducing the voltage.

 

Some examples of adjustable power supplies - AC to DC or DC to DC 

 

These were just random picks, there are many more of these to choose from on ebay and Amazon and probably elsewhere as well.

I IrelandOGR Forum Member

Thank you again for the additional information.

 

My 12 VDC source is a Troller 2.5 amp power pack from my HO days in the early 80's.  The variable is 12VDC and there are 2 fixed outputs -  14 VAC and 16 VDC.  I also have several power paks from the slot car era - 12VDC and 1 amp from the days our children were into racing - again the 80s

 

The HO power pak works as it supported the sale of my HO locos and accessories.

 

Next step is to pick up a light strip and go from there.

 

Again, Thanks 

S stan2004OGR Forum Member

Another approach to LED strip brightness control is to start with a 12V DC fixed-output supply and use a controller to lower the voltage.  This would be the same "concept" as the MTH Z-controllers which start with a 18V AC  fixed-output brick and then use a controller to efficiently cut the AC voltage.

As John H points out you can get a high capacity 12V DC source for next to nothing.  Then use a so-called PWM controller module for $2 (free shipping):

ebay pwm controller under 2 bucks

You feed 12V DC into one screw-terminal block and the knob cuts/chops the voltage to the other screw-terminal block 0-12V DC.

PC power supplies can be a bit bulky but there is no shortage of 12V DC wall-warts on eBay for about $2 for 1 Amp, $3 for 2 Amps, and so on.  If you're not familiar with the adapter jacks, these can simplify hookup so you don't have to cut/splice the barrel connector.

12v dc wall wart and adapter

Depending on your situation, an advantage of having "only" 12V DC is that you can't make the mistake of accidently cranking up the output to 13V, 14V, or whatever which can burn-out a 12V LED strip.

Depending on your situation, for another dollar or so you can get PWM controller modules which are remotely controlled (wireless) so that you can change the LED strip brightness from a distance.

Depending on your situation, if the purpose of variable control is for day and night operation you might consider using a Lionel ASC or MTH AIU accessory controller to select between one of two voltage settings.  In this case a few 10 cent diodes could provide the 2 brightness settings if starting from 12V DC.

 

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