I have 4 switches running Lionel O gauge tubular. Three of the four switches work flawlessly but one has become difficult (that until recently worked just fine). Issue: I have to hand-control the lantern box on the 022 switch in order to re-set both the lights on the controller. When next I switch at the controller, the switch throws BUT once again, both lights go out at the controller and the switch becomes inactive and can only be changed by hand at the lantern box. Turn the lantern box and both lights on the controller re-light. But the cycle then repeats. Sometimes it works as it should but those occasions are becoming less and less. I see no obvious wiring issues anywhere. Is there a possibility of a simple controller failing that otherwise “looks good”? By the way, a train will pass through the switch OK forcing the right track direction (the non-derailing feature) if I don’t get to the lantern box in time …AND… the fixed-voltage install was employed when I did my wiring about two years ago…and as I say, the other three work just fine. Thanks for any insight into this!
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Well, the symptoms suggest contact issues. You'll probably have to take it off to work on it. The contacts that ride under the switch track on the switch motor are a frequent source of this issue. Another thing can be that it's binding slightly somewhere in the transport, it should move very easily.
little eddie,
The great thing about the old 022's is that they are readily available in great shape, for reasonable cost, on the used market. I would not even waste time trying to fix the troublesome 022, unless that particular switch means something to you, as a hand me down. Replace it with a different 022, getting your layout back on line, and then if you want to mess around with the problem switch, take your time and do it after removing & replacing it on your layout, with another good 022 switch.
PCRR/Dave
Thanks, gentlemen --- I think picking up another switch makes good sense. I can then fiddle with the "bad" one and see if I can get it working. A back-up isn't a half bad idea!
Sounds like the sliding contacts on the inside of the switch are making intermittent contact.
Thanks --- I'll be getting into it "shortly." (pun...)
Well, the symptoms suggest contact issues. You'll probably have to take it off to work on it. The contacts that ride under the switch track on the switch motor are a frequent source of this issue. Another thing can be that it's binding slightly somewhere in the transport, it should move very easily.
Well, just dismantled the switch, cleaned the contacts and voila, it works fabulously! Thanks so much...and Happy New Year!
le,
Nice going glad you are back in operation. I always had and extra set of left and right 022's to do a quick swap if the contacts or anything else went bad. In this manner you always have your layout up and running while you rework the 022 that has minor problems. Most time everything on the old 022's can be fixed or parts replaced,
same goes for the 711/072. For years I transitioned in and out of them on my Fastrack layout, now however I use the low voltage, FT Command Control switches, with my Legacy Cab2 remote control.
PCRR/Dave
le,
Nice going glad you are back in operation. I always had and extra set of left and right 022's to do a quick swap if the contacts or anything else went bad. In this manner you always have your layout up and running while you rework the 022 that has minor problems. Most time everything on the old 022's can be fixed or parts replaced,
same goes for the 711/072. For years I transitioned in and out of them on my Fastrack layout, now however I use the low voltage, FT Command Control switches, with my Legacy Cab2 remote control.
PCRR/Dave
My York visit in April will have a couple of back-up switches on agenda. Not expensive and makes sense. That said, I'm beginning to think even though I want to hold to my beloved Grandpop's way of doing my pike --- it DOES mean a lot to me --- I should go with modern switches because the originals are hard on my older trains. Just a thought.
Other than a fragile prewar wheel with zinc pest getting fractured going thru the frog or an early 1946 slide shoe getting clipped, I can not imagine any way that an original 022 is hard on older trains. The 022 switch in my opinion is one of the most fascinating, reliable, durable, and efficient items that original Lionel ever made. I have handled hundreds of these switches. Aside from flooding, being carelessly handled, or being outright smashed the worst enemy of an 022 switch track is the wrong person servicing it. If cleaned properly, contacts shined, contact tension just right they will last forever IMO. The thin metal strip that lays in the bottom of the frog on a layout with lots of use can get a groove from the wheel flanges. However, I have never seen one of these fail to the point where it really had to be replaced. 042 manual switches don't even have it. The 022 switch controller on the other hand can give some trouble that is often blamed on the switch. Except for the wires being soldered inside the controller, all other electrical connections are mechanical either by rivet or brass tabs bent to hold things together. Those connections often were not tight as possible when leaving the factory and over time, oxidation on and between the brass parts in the controller increases electrical resistance. I have soldered the tabbed connections inside a few controllers and it fixes the problem. One other problem that is common in the controller are the lever contacts. These are nothing more than somewhat springy bent brass strips that the lever hits to complete the circuit to flip the switch. These strips can get fatigued and break off. I believe some of them may have been abused by the owner over the years while others were a poorer grade of metal and broke easily.
Other than a fragile prewar wheel with zinc pest getting fractured going thru the frog or an early 1946 slide shoe getting clipped, I can not imagine any way that an original 022 is hard on older trains. The 022 switch in my opinion is one of the most fascinating, reliable, durable, and efficient items that original Lionel ever made. I have handled hundreds of these switches. Aside from flooding, being carelessly handled, or being outright smashed the worst enemy of an 022 switch track is the wrong person servicing it. If cleaned properly, contacts shined, contact tension just right they will last forever IMO. The thin metal strip that lays in the bottom of the frog on a layout with lots of use can get a groove from the wheel flanges. However, I have never seen one of these fail to the point where it really had to be replaced. 042 manual switches don't even have it. The 022 switch controller on the other hand can give some trouble that is often blamed on the switch. Except for the wires being soldered inside the controller, all other electrical connections are mechanical either by rivet or brass tabs bent to hold things together. Those connections often were not tight as possible when leaving the factory and over time, oxidation on and between the brass parts in the controller increases electrical resistance. I have soldered the tabbed connections inside a few controllers and it fixes the problem. One other problem that is common in the controller are the lever contacts. These are nothing more than somewhat springy bent brass strips that the lever hits to complete the circuit to flip the switch. These strips can get fatigued and break off. I believe some of them may have been abused by the owner over the years while others were a poorer grade of metal and broke easily.
Thanks for such a thoughtful reply! My sense of this is NOT the mechanics of the 022, rather its "roughness" or the "clunk factor" in particular with my 260E and 249E locos. They noticeably bounce going thru the switch (as do the modern engines) but I'm concerned about o-l-d locos that I LOVE and the TLC factor I always employ with them. I figure something like Ross switches will more lovingly allow the engines to pass thru without so much "clunking." Just a common sense thought...
It's 022 Switches or nothing. I love fixing them. Never had one that was not repairable.
Gentlemen,
mk makes a great point, the 022's and the 711/072 are almost indestructible, however the only draw back is they are not low voltage remote control operable.
If they were I would not have gone into the FT low voltage Command Control switches that operate from track power. Now that being said if you want them to be controlled from a remote set up, use the DCS AIU, this takes some initial wiring of the switches to the DCS AIU, it does work well however. I also suggest powering the switches from their own transformer and replacing the old Lionel Bulbs with LED's, having done this the old 022's and 711/072's work incredibly well on both conventional Tubular layouts and FasTrack layouts also.
PCRR/Dave
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Gentlemen,
mk makes a great point, the 022's and the 711/072 are almost indestructible, however the only draw back is they are not low voltage remote control operable.
If they were I would not have gone into the FT low voltage Command Control switches that operate from track power. Now that being said if you want them to be controlled from a remote set up, use the DCS AIU, this takes some initial wiring of the switches to the DCS AIU, it does work well however. I also suggest powering the switches from their own transformer and replacing the old Lionel Bulbs with LED's, having done this the old 022's and 711/072's work incredibly well on both conventional Tubular layouts and FasTrack layouts also.
PCRR/Dave
I have replaced several of my switches with LEDs --- tired of replacing hoods! I gather there is more to think about here...and so I shall. Thanks!
I'm thinking of replacing the lamps with LED's. The ones with bayonet bases. I have a few with screw bases also.
Marty,
You can now get LED's for both screw in and bayonet bases, they work great.
PCRR/Dave
On this topic, I have an O22 on my bench. It is my first time with the O22. How does the switch motor get power? What is the small round plug used for?
any insight on this is helpful
thanks
Bill
It is my first time with the O22. How does the switch motor get power? What is the small round plug used for?
Required reading:
Great info. Can anyone help me out...when I hook the track to track power only the switch will not light up or operate. When power is applied using fixed plug everything works fine. Any thoughts?
Pull the plug out of the socket when not using it.
If it still fails, the contact that springs over to the male pin with the plug removed is not making good contact.