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I was given a 10E standard gauge set that used belong to a my grandfather.  I am fairly confident he never ran it and only had it on display for over last 40+ years in his family room.  I went to try to run it a few weeks ago and it ran very poor.  

I took it apart tonight and cleaned the e unit and also the residue and junk built  up on the commutator with some emery cloth.  I took the motor brushes out and believe they may be the root of my issue.  One looks to carbon while the other looks to be some braided  copper.  I had never see this before, but thought I would ask others before assuming this is wrong.

Thanks!

2EC00285-10FB-480F-9B84-4C03D3BEFC393268041F-4496-4FE8-B817-A98DDA990BBC

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Those brushes look correct. The braided copper brush should be a consist diameter and be rounded on the end like the carbon brush.  The bush tubes need to be clean and the springs should have good tension on them.  I would look at the commutator to be sure that it is clean and there is no carbon dust shorting from bar to bar. Be really careful about what solvents you use to clean the commutator and armature. Nothing with alcohol in it.  Check the resistance bar to bar.  It should be about the same and around 2 ohms. The resistance from any bar to the motor shaft should be very high. 10,000 ohms or more would be good.  You can use two carbon brushes, but you will have to watch the commutator stays smooth and clean.  Another thing to look at it the condition of the reverse switch contacts.

Thanks for the reply.  I threw it back together and seems to work good, I guess the cleaning I did helped.  What is the purpose of the copper contact over a carbon one?

I am used to the postwar type e- units with a drum, this one has some linkages that resemble a pendulum movement.  The reverse unit doesn’t appear to have a neutral, it is either forward or reverse, I assume that is normal as well?

Thanks!

Mike

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