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Recently bought this locomotive second hand, it was new in the box and did look pretty new.  When running it on our traditional O gauge layout, it stops in some sections where switches are present.  I took it off the track and fiddled with wire leads.  When the wires are connected to the front pickup, it turns on.  When the wires are connected using the rear pickup it does nothing though.  The wire that connects with a screw right underneath the pickup assembly is snug.  From there the wire goes up through into the shell of the locomotive.  Anyone else have this problem?  Also, has anyone taken one of these apart to work on anything inside?  Can you take the shell off without affecting all the detailed gearing?

Also, the front coupler opens fine with remote, but is very stiff to close.  Any remedy for that?  It looks like that whole coupler assembly is mostly sealed. Thanks for any help.

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This topic has popped up several times in the past.  Actually, the shell is easy to take off.  THE PROBLEM IS: PUTTING IT BACK ON!   It is a REAL BEAR!

What I found to help was loosening the side gears a little to provide some wiggle room for the shell to come off.  However, somehow, the internal "workings" expanded, because it did not seem as though there was enough room to put the shell back on !  I think I ended up grinding some of the internal side walls down with a Dremel to provide some extra room for the shell to fit.

I am not an expert at repairs, but like to take on the challenge when the time presents itself.  To be honest, I would think twice about taking one of these apart again.

There is like zero room inside the shell.  I took mine apart to install an ERR Cruise Commander M, and it ended up being about a 3-4 hour job!  Just the different positioning of the connectors and the 1/8" difference in length from the stock DCDR was enough to make the job a Royal PITA!  I actually had visions of installing my Chuff-Generator, but after seeing the available room, I realized that was a pipe dream!

So I dropped it off at a local hobby shop.  I talked to them on the phone and they can fix the wiring problem.  For the coupler, they said it works fine when a car is used with it.  They said a car pushed on the right place but when I was doing it with my fingers it wasn't.  Is that a common thing?  I really didn't fiddle with it much.  I don't remember if I tried a car at all.  I know it seemed locked pretty solid when I tried by hand though.

Personally, I think they just didn't want to address the issue.  It's pretty common for these couplers to be problematic.  Sometimes, the close easily by hand but not if you try to couple a car.  Other times they'll coupler a car, but seem locked if you just try to push the coupler closed.

The only "fix" I've found is either replacement and shoot the dice if you're getting a good one, or disassemble the coupler and polish the mating surfaces.  I've been able to make a balky coupler silky smooth with a little work on the latching parts, but it does require you pull the knuckle and then rivet it back on when you're done.

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