Lionel 226E

The 226 is a premier operating piece.  This thing just exudes quality.  It is the forerunner of most of Lionel's spur drive engines that followed, but none were built to the exacting specifications or attention to detail of the 226.

It's smooth in operation, quiet, powerful and made with high quality components.  You can't go wrong with one unless it's been abused

Plus, it was one of the first O gauge engines with "operating firebox glow!"

Really an awesome engine.

John,

     Haven't a clue what a 226 is but your description makes me want one.

What is it?  I'm relatively new to this hobby learning as I go.

         Tonino

More the tender than anything else.... the casting should be straight, with no waves, crazing, or corrosion.

Check axle play on the loco, and bends in the pilot, and cab roof... the 226 is HEAVY and they got played with.

Tonino, it's a heavy, die cast 2-6-4 Pre War steamer with a die cast tender.  There are many on eBay right now and you can get a feeling for the engine and it's current prices while scanning the listings.  Used to be $600+/- for a decent one but like most, they have come down some.

Be careful about getting the correct tender. As I wrote in another thread, Lionel made four die cast metal tenders during the prewar period. A 226E should come with a 2226W die cast metal tender, which is the largest after the 700 Tender.

Thanks guys,

       That's very helpful.  I've got a lot of learning to do.  Seems

like everything I like is expensive - the old proverbial "champagne

taste - beer bankroll syndrome.  I love the hobby though.

       Tonino

Hello Tonino

A 226E is a Lionel pre war steam locomotive, with a 2-6-4-wheel arrangement. They were made from 1938 to 1941. The 226E came with a 12- wheel 2226W whistle tender. The tender was lettered Lionel Line first in silver ( years 1938 and 1939 ) after that the lettering was white.  

The 226E was the leader of the O scale line and came in sets with 2800 series freight cars and the semi-scale freight cars.

This was a die cast locomotive and tender of the highest quality. It was offered only in black (other die cast locomotives of the same time era also came in gray) The 226E is one of only two Lionel pre war locomotives ( the other is the 260 ) to have the red firebox light under the boiler to simulate the glowing coal in the firebox, its six drive wheels had Baldwin disc wheels with a chrome rim around them. The pre war locomotives did not have smoke units these started in 1946, and no magne-traction (1950) 

The pre war die cast steamers Lionel made were very fine pieces, mechanically sound, very reliable, and very good pullers.

I have a 224E; the 226E’s slightly smaller cousin from the same time period, and it runs superbly and is a joy to watch. It really makes you appreciate the quality and workmanship Lionel put into these “toys” back in those days. The 226E is on my “acquisition list” I want to find one in really good shape and these can be bit pricey.

Hope this information is helpful

Enjoy

Frank

The post war equivalent is a 2046, 646, or 2056. The post war locos have a less detailed boiler front and do not have the nickel-rimmed drivers or the big tender, but they will give you an idea what a 226 looks/feels like.

The 226 is a quality piece, those precision motor pre-magnetraction equipped locos run really well. I have wanted a 226E and a first year Berkshire for a long while, haven't found one I really could live with. Still looking....

Thanks Roy Boy, that kind of info is just what I need.  Unless you have both in front

of you to examine them, its hard to tell the differences from photos.

        Thanks

                Tonino

I know the feeling Train Doctor,

     I picked up a Berkshire some years ago because it was almost a give away, but

it has the plastic trailing truck and it drives me crazy but what would I do with 2

Berkshires?  I'd rather stockpile the money and occasionally get some really nice stuff.

One of these days, I'm going to have enough room to put up a real nice layout but

for now, with 4 generations in our house there isn't much room to put an oval much

less a big layout.

                     Tonino

While there are similarities between the post-war 2046 and pre-war 226E the boiler of the 226E is actually the forerunner of the 1946 726 Berkshire's boiler with a few minor differences chief of which would be the dual smokestacks on the 226E.  While the 2046 is a good looking post-war engine I think a better cosmetic comparison would be the 726 and 226E.  As you point out Royboy the 2046 just doesn't have anywhere near the detail of a 226E while the 726 does and while you did not touch on this area the biggest difference is under the hood.  The motor used by Lionel in the 226E was the finest they ever manufactured.  Smooth, silent and powerful.  In my opinion, even though the 2046 is a good runner its operational capabilities, save magne-traction, don't match up well with the 226E.  As Tom Snyder said on the "A Century of Lionel Trains" DVD, there is certainly something special about the 226E.

Runs just like the 726 Berk. Smoooooth and quiet. Good looking engine. I would not recommend buying a loco without the tender. You'll end up paying a lot more in the long run.

BTW firebox lights were offered on the 226E, 260E, 255E, 263E, 385E, 1835E, 392E and 400E pre war locos.

Gandy

I don't think there is much (if any) difference in the motor between the 226E and the 225E, the 224E and the postwar 675 (early ones).  There really isn't that much difference between it and the 2046 motor, except the 2046 has different wheels and magna traction.  They are all good runners for their day, but they don't compare to a modern can motor with a flywheel.  The early 726 used a horizontal motor, or nearly so and a worm drive which is a lot different than the 226E. 

As others have stated the 226E has more detail than the 2046 and the later berkshires.  The prices have dropped a little but expect to pay at least 350 for one that needs restoration, 400 plus for a nicer one (but far from perfect) with the tender.  Williams made a 2426 tender that sells for around $100 that has postwar trucks.  Lionel made a separate sale tender too but it was more expensive. 

I have always liked the 226. I bought mine as a repaint and it had a very flat finish.  At some point I will restore it with a more stain finish.  It is a majestic engine even with the flat finish.

There's an old saying:  You don't get into a hobby to save money. 

As RoyBoy indicated, the 226e was the harbinger for the 2046 646 2056, but it was really more so for the 726 Berkshire.  Both body castings are virtually identical, main differences were that the 226e had better detailing especially in the region where the expansion link is right under the walkways above the drivers.   On the 226e there is actually a "cutout" or "cavity" in the casting where you actually see through it where the expansion link is.  On the postwar 726 this is all a solid casting with the expansion link and reversing link connecting areas as part of the casting.  There is some additional add-on piping detail on the 226e shell that are actually cast on the 726, 2056, etc.

In fact, the postwar clone of the 726 Berks and 2056-style Hudsons that Williams/WBB makes is based off of the 226e as it shared much of the same separately-applied detailing including the open area where the expansion link is like the 226e.

Thanks John,

     I've been restoring antique wood boats and outboards for years and am finally

giving it up but I've always been a "stickler" for originality but have been known to

take some design liberties to make something look a little nicer.  That is still a dillemma

when looking at some of the MTH/Williams and other knock offs out there for less

money.  Some of it is just that nice.  What to do!  A few months back I purchased a Lionel 3-pack of heavyweight passenger cars #6-15554.  I had been looking for a nice

set to reminisce about my youth riding the Pennsy RR between Newark N.J. and the

Jersey Shore.  I love the cars - they have figures inside as well as a conductor, but what

really got me was the bellows on the ends of the cars.  Local dealer gave me a good price and I had to have it.  However, I couldn't find a companion GG1 I liked until I saw

the Williams/Bachmann PRR 5-stripe in Tuscan Red.  Perfect - for me anyway and I bought it.  Also recently bought a 3-car set of Lionel Lackawanna commuter cars.  We

used to play on the Lackawanna tracks for entertainment.  What a hoot.  Everything else I have is Lionel - one pre-war set w/a cast 2-4-2 (not of the scout type) that is the duplicate of my first set as a child, a 671 steam turbine, a Berkshire and a host of post

war cars.  Had my old ZW transformer re-conditioned in anticipation of erecting a layout,

but just don't have the room yet.  There is another engine lurking in there somewhere but I'm embarassed to say I don't recall what it is.  I haven't been into that old stuff in

years.  BUT I REMEMBER WHERE IT IS - LOL.  Thanks again for all the details.  The 226E

looks really good, as does one of the original Hudsons ("Ka-Ching") but we can dream.  

you never know when opportunity will knock.

          Tonino

I'd be happy with an abused one, but there's been too much real life getting in the way lately!

     Tell me about Tin Guy.  We retired to sunny Florida and within two years we went

from just us two kids out of school to 4 generations in the house.  Youngest a very tall

15 year old football player and a 100 year old elder who is showing no signs of slowing

down.  One of the reasons I don't have room for a layout even though I have an extended 3-car garage.

         Tonino

I have probably handled 30 226Es over the years.  My collection has 5.  I have never had one I could not get running within 5 minutes, no matter how long it had sat in someones basement or attic.  They pull better than 763s or another prewar engine I have.  They are top of the line stuff.

These aren't great pictures, I'll try to get some better ones in a few days.

They were my father-in-law's, doesn't run. I got the 226E in pieces, managed to put it back together. The wiring is completely dry rotted. I'll be rewiring in a few months, THEN I'll try to give it a run. I also have a whistle controller and the transformer

NOT FOR SALE

The 226 is the only piece left that I want. I had one years ago and ran like crazy!

Here's a question:  I know some prewar Lionel transformers (like the Z) went up to 24 volts.  Does the 226E run "slower" than its postwar descendants for a given voltage and train load?  Were those extra 4 volts just for the scale Hudsons and the B6 switcher?  In my experience, even 15 volts is plenty for a postwar 726, 2046, etc.

I have its brother - 224E & 2224W.  My dad got the engine brand new when he was a kid.  Its a great engine and still runs today.  It sees use every holiday season pulling 6 prewar cars without an issue.  I believe the 224E, 225E, and 226E all use the same motor.  The difference only being the shell that sits on it.

The 224E runs well on 12 volts.  I run it with a ZWC and cannot get anywhere near 18 volts.  It will go way to fast. I assume the same for the 226E.

I think the reason some prewar transformers put out higher voltage is to make up for the voltage loss created by external whistle controls.

Postwar "multi-control" transformers, with built-in whistle controls, have a five volt compensating winding that is used when the whistle is blown.

In my experience the 224, 225, and 226 run fine with a ZW. They are probably fine with all but the smallest transformers.

Here's the thing I looking at one but there's a dent in the roof, how easy is that 

to fix and it's missing one of it's marker lights in front of the engine which I think I can 

repair, anyway it looks great.

Tin 

The boiler is diecast, so I don't know what a "dent" in the roof would look like.

Without seeing it, I would guess it could probably be filled.

I believe that the marker light is part of the boiler front ring, which is available as a reproduction part.

Just be aware that the flaws you describe would seriously affect the value to a collector, and the engine should be priced accordingly.

You'll have to remove the cab and then heat the cab (very hot) with a torch and slowly reform it.  I had an old baseball bat that had the same radius as the cab and you could slowly bend it back.  If you go too fast, the bent part of the cab will break off.  I've done this 3 or 4 times with old Lionel engines.  It does ruin the paint on the cab, but you can bend it back.

I thought so, it's a dent in the cab Roof.

Tin  

I've used a heat gun to do this. It will get the metal hot enough to bend without cracking and not ruin the paint.

Thanks for posting this pic:

I had always wondered why the Williams Berk and Hudson had the the add on pipes held on with cotter pins as the 726 pipes were cast on. The Williams engines also have the opening below the running boards to show the valve gear which only the 1946 Berk had and was closed in the later Berks and Hudsons.

Williams:

Pete

there was just a threadm either here or the tinplate fourm, about straightening cab corners, one member had made a wodden jig and slowly used pressure from a vise to straighten the corner.

You don't want to use a torch in my opinion, you want to use a good quality hair dryer.  The wood block jig and than slowly reforming.  Key is that there can't be a crack in the casting.  If it is cracked it will break.  G

I suspect it depends on the amount of the bend, but I have seen guys break them by using the vise with a block and not heating them.  Maybe they had a crack too, I just don't know.  I never tried a heat gun but that seems like a good idea.  I reformed a 225 and a 1946 model 726 really easily with the torch.  They were both basket cases already so the paint wasn't an issue.

My proverbial two cents:

     Admittedly, I have never performed such an operation on a cast loco before, but I have restored many an old 50s outboard having dealt with castings, sheet metal albeit mostly aluminum.

Relative to the dented cab, my own experience with antique outboards tends to agree with the camp that recommends a forming die and some heat.  A forming die can be made of wood.  The whole process should be "gentle" and not blind force.  It'll work.  

A good heat gun will accelerate the process but start on the lowest temp setting.  I bought an inexpensive heat gun at Northern tool on sale for $6.95 and its still going strong.  Sure beats fighting with you know who over her hair dryer.

          Tonino

Zamac melts at 714F. The heat gun I use is rated for 600-800F so I hold it at least 6 inches from the work. I don't think a hair dryer will help. I aim for 400-450F which softens the metal but doesn't discolor or burn the paint. Heat, form a little, heat again. You can feel the difference in how the metal moves when is hot vs cold.

Pete

Wow! This is the best website that I go on, you guys are great thank you.

It's the love of trains.

Tin  

Very true, when you get the cab hot, it forms easily.  And you need to go very gradually.  The 726 had a very minor bend and I'll bet it took 15 minutes to get back in shape.

Hi all,

   Well I didn't buy a 226E, on ebay yesterday there was a kit built 700E or 

whatever the model is. It's in rough shape looks like a big challenge wish me 

luck.