Lionel 262e chassis machining?

I haven't done the 262. I did an Ives 1122. I used a Dremel cutting wheel and stone to take the bits of the old cow catcher off. I positioned the frame upside down and supported it so it would not move. I glued the new cow catcher in place with JB Weld. I had to machine the new part a little as well. I may have used a little painters tape to hold the part in place while the JB Weld set and cured for 24 hours.

Tapping the chassis could be problematic. The drilling shouldn't be so bad if you are not trying to drill too large of a hole. Trying to get a thread would be very difficult. I would glue anything in place. You could use regular epoxy if you don't want it to be permanent. There's another trick too for stripped threads. I put shoe polish on the screw; put JB Weld in the hole; and slowly screwed the screw into the hole. After 24 hours, you should be able to back the screw out and the JB Weld will have formed the threads. (It's really miraculous stuff if you wait for it to dry completely!) 

For parts, I would try Hennings trains, Brasseur, Jeff Kane (Train Tender) and David Trickel.

Would love to see pics of your progress and finished product!

George

JB Weld is my go to. You might risk breaking the frame by drilling, in case any zinc pest is present.

Thanks. Sounds like JB Weld is the way to go. Is this available at Home Depot, or is it a specialty product?

Will posted:

Thanks. Sounds like JB Weld is the way to go. Is this available at Home Depot, or is it a specialty product?

Yep, that's where I get mine.  Just Google JB Weld Home Depot. You want the original.

George

Wall Mart, auto parts stores, any hardware store, my bench....

another vote for JB Weld. Used to mend many "broken teeth" on 257, 258, 261 and 262's. 

Timothy Sprague posted:

another vote for JB Weld. Used to mend many "broken teeth" on 257, 258, 261 and 262's. 

on some of those same locomotives I have had good luck with epoxy, although not JB Weld brand.

I felt this was interesting 

Steve

https://youtu.be/XObmZIbHOzY

Can you braze the parts?

I feel like that would hold a lot better, but I don't know how well solder sticks to zinc or if the zinc will distort/melt.

Brian Liesberg posted:

Can you braze the parts?

I feel like that would hold a lot better, but I don't know how well solder sticks to zinc or if the zinc will distort/melt.

I google the subject of soldering two pieces of zinc together.

What I saw was a person using a solder called "Super Alloy One " which is a aluminum solder and there flux.
https://www.doovi.com/video/so...zinc-die/Sh5W0xbZ9es
what the video. If you have one of those Dorfan crane with the broken legs you may want to try this.

I also saw on another site about a warning:  "What does happen when welding zinc plated materials, however, if that some of the zinc will vaporize, and breathing a lot of this material can cause "metal fume fever". You can look that up and ways to avoid it.

I do not know about a lead base solder on zinc but the flux will have to be specific for that job. Years ago I was doing some R&D work and needed to solder two pieces of un-magnetic stainless pieces together and found the proper flux. The solder flowed as if it was on copper. Just do the research on it.

Interesting subject