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Hi all,

   I received in the mail today a Lionel 385 loco and tender, it's not in bad shape dirty, greasy, did I say dirty,

e-unit not working to well have to clean that out. So is there anything to watch out for taking these bad boys apart

for a total cleaning, there was one mishap the steam chest broke but so far was able to use some JB Quick epoxy and

get it back together also the boiler front is badly broken, but I knew that and the tender that's another story warped

sides, is there anyway to straighten the walls out, if not I'll leave it alone and use as is, but it does run after a few

e-unit cycles, any help would be great I've redone O's S's but this will be a good to restore.

 

Thanks

Tin

Last edited by tinguy
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Die cast parts such as steam chests, boiler fronts, and the 385E tender shells are, or at least have been available from vendors like Sal Olsen, George Tebolt, and Jeff Kane, and even MTH. If you buy from the smaller vendors, look for the case hardened parts, otherwise you'll most likely get soft metal parts. They work, but are not as good as the case hardened pieces or the pieces that MTH uses on their products.

 

As for the motor, they work the same way as an O gauge motor. The set up is slightly different, but they are as simple to work on.

Tin,

 

Following jsrfo's comment...  you cannot straighten these parts. Using MTH replacements (or older case hardened castings) can lead to some fitment issues, but are a better way to go.

 

True care and understanding on how these engines work, can mean a great renewal for another 80 years of life.  Good luck with your loco!

Originally Posted by Rob English:

Tin,

 

Following jsrfo's comment...  you cannot straighten these parts. Using MTH replacements (or older case hardened castings) can lead to some fitment issues, but are a better way to go.

 

True care and understanding on how these engines work, can mean a great renewal for another 80 years of life.  Good luck with your loco!

Along with Rob's comment, the reason you tender shell has warped is that the metal expanded over time. Impurities in the metals back then create all sorts of problems for us today. In the case of something like your tender shell, being restrained by screws, as the metal expanded, it pushed out or in where it could, and warped.

 

So, as for fitment issues, if some of the "good" parts have only slightly expanded, pieces don't fit like they would if everything is perfect. Typical issues include frames that have "grown" a bit, causing a gap between the boiler front and boiler body. None of this is either avoidable, or unexpected. In most slight cases, it is acceptable.

 

Glad that you are going to conserve a great old engine.

Originally Posted by jsrfo:

 None of this is either avoidable, or unexpected. In most slight cases, it is acceptable.

 

Glad that you are going to conserve a great old engine.

Agreed in toto.  I was advised one upon a time that slow (I mean REALLY slow) clamping of parts can be accomplished...  but screw holes then will not align.  This is sometimes the ONLY way to save a part and I have done it once on a Flyer wide gauge tender.  To straighten it 1/8" took only 7 years.  I wouldn't wast the time on a Lionel piece, since good original (and good repro) parts are out there.... BUT I would and do conservation on these pieces and have returned a 385, and 2 392's to service. It is worth the effort, and is kind of fun too. To boot, I have learned stuff about these engines that I would NEVER have, because I repaired them.

 

Do not be afraid to work on these loco's they are very easy to work on. I purchased many years ago on auction an early 385 with brass trim and chugger that was totally destroyed by rot and decay. It literally came in a hundred pieces. It is now one of my prized engines. Bringing back these old loco's is never a bad idea, they are a huge part of Lionel's history, and vintage units are limited in availability and they are not making any more from that era.

 

I've tried and sent back many poor castings from a variety of vendors, some mentioned here. The best readily available castings that I have found are from MTH. The steam chest should be a high quality exact match to the originals. The boiler front is also a high quality casting, but they threaded the mounting holes so a little work will be needed there. A MTH frame may be modified to take a newer designed firebox lamp holder so be careful when choosing to try to get an early style casting. The tender shell from MTH is beautiful, however, the mounting screw holes are slightly off from the originals, and you'll have to slightly elongate the holes in the frame to allow mounting. If you want to be as close to original as possible without resorting to a poor casting, you should try to find an old Bill Vagel casting, they are dead on matches to the originals, and of generally high quality.

 

Gandy

 

PS: If she is gunmetal, you'll have a very hard timer matching the paint with the replacement boiler front and steam chest. If she is rough enough, a full restoration may be in order.

Hi all.

   Here's are two pictures of the engine, first one when it arrived and second

is the 385 all put back together (almost). the front truck is fine, rear I got a

replacement, have to order a steamchest and boiler front. Last night I just

missed a chugger unit, I polished up the boiler and Frame they look really

good  and motor been cleaned and lubed and runs. The two domes on top

are worn But I'll leave them, and both lights work. I really love the way the

motor all comes apart for cleaning and the built quality is amazing. I was on 

some sites that sell parts should I stick with Dye Cast parts then from

George Tebolt I've been dealing with him for years or other place to get

parts?

 

Thanks

Tin

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Tin, are you sure that is a 385E and not an 1835E?? The reason is that the 385 came in Gunmetal, and depending on if it was early or not had the brass trim unpainted. The 1835E came in black and they painted all the trim on the loco except the main handrails and boiler front light ring and number board frame. The 1835E also came with the Ives style tender where the 385E came with the regular rounded style Lionel tender. Your loco looks like an 1835E in the photo. It is exactly the same loco as the 385E except the color and the early 385E came with a chugger where the 1835E did not. If you have the cut outs on the bulkhead inside the cab for the cut off switch you have an early loco. Judging from the brass plates on the tender and brass keystones, you should have the cut outs. Also, do not buy a chugger unit unless you have the cam and cam switch. The chuggers are easy to find but the cam switch is RARE.

 

Gandy

 

PS: Train Tender sells MTH parts, George does not specify so I would write and ask first and go with the MTH as a preference. Also, Jeff Kane is not listing the steam chest, hopefully its just an omission and he can get it or has it in stock.

Last edited by TheGandyDancer

No one sells them pre painted because its too expensive. Just clean the casting, remove all flashing, prime and paint. For black I use Krylon or Rustoleum. You have an early 1835E not a 385E. The earliest ones had copper journals on the tender, brass plates on the tender and brass trimmed keystones. The trim was also painted black the same as yours. Unless its a repaint I'd have to say you have an 1835E.

 

Just as good they run and look beautiful too.

 

Gandy

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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