Lionel 6-12029

Check to verify that the cuts in the 5" track pieces are on the same outside rail.

Check the axles and wheels to be sure that something hasn't worn or changed to cause the center rail and outside rail to short. The pilot truck can be finicky. Cut the power when you see the arc and go inspect the location where the engine is for something that is causing a connection with the center and outside rail.

Wheel bearings, pilot truck pivot pin or spring...

Make sure the accessory transformer and the track transformer are in phase. That arc could come from the track power and the accessory power having a wiring or electrical problem. If you changed the orientation of a plug or something like that. 

It sounds like your accessory power is out of phase with the track power resulting in a significant short.

Moonman posted:

Check to verify that the cuts in the 5" track pieces are on the same outside rail.

Check the axles and wheels to be sure that something hasn't worn or changed to cause the center rail and outside rail to short. The pilot truck can be finicky. Cut the power when you see the arc and go inspect the location where the engine is for something that is causing a connection with the center and outside rail.

Wheel bearings, pilot truck pivot pin or spring...

 

Make sure the accessory transformer and the track transformer are in phase. That arc could come from the track power and the accessory power having a wiring or electrical problem. If you changed the orientation of a plug or something like that. 

I’ll have to look at the engine itself. Everything is on track power and both 5” sections are in the same location

ADCX Rob posted:

It sounds like your accessory power is out of phase with the track power resulting in a significant short.

I have it all on track power, how could I correct that? Also I have a modern 4-4-2 from an older penn flyer set. It dies on both my isolated sections. One is the above item number, and the other is one I made using the same idea. I just took a couple of track pins out. 

AVR conductor posted:

ADCX Rob posted:

It sounds like your accessory power is out of phase with the track power resulting in a significant short.

I have it all on track power, how could I correct that? Also I have a modern 4-4-2 from an older penn flyer set. It dies on both my isolated sections. One is the above item number, and the other is one I made using the same idea. I just took a couple of track pins out. 

Ahh... your "constant voltage" phrasing threw us off there.

There is a short in your accessory or its associated wiring. What are you triggering with this insulated section?

PW 45n

AVR conductor posted:

ADCX Rob posted:

It sounds like your accessory power is out of phase with the track power resulting in a significant short.

I have it all on track power, how could I correct that? Also I have a modern 4-4-2 from an older penn flyer set. It dies on both my isolated sections. One is the above item number, and the other is one I made using the same idea.I just took a couple of track pins out. 

If you have all FasTrack, taking the pins out alone will not do it. There are bars that tie the outside rails together underneath. Did you remove those in the made up section?

it appears to me that the gateman is the short. Using the common rail as trigger is ok in place of a contactor switch. The power or AC hot should be directly from the transformer. I think it is just too much if it is all from the track.

If it's not that, recheck the wiring. I have attached the 145 wiring diagram, which is the same as the 45.

Have you bench tested the gateman to determine if the coil went bad or another short exists in the gateman?

Moonman posted:

AVR conductor posted:

ADCX Rob posted:

It sounds like your accessory power is out of phase with the track power resulting in a significant short.

I have it all on track power, how could I correct that? Also I have a modern 4-4-2 from an older penn flyer set. It dies on both my isolated sections. One is the above item number, and the other is one I made using the same idea.I just took a couple of track pins out. 

If you have all FasTrack, taking the pins out alone will not do it. There are bars that tie the outside rails together underneath. Did you remove those in the made up section?

Yes In the 10” section. I removed the bars. But I’m starting to think that the engine itself is acting up. The motor stops running. But headlight will stay in in certain spots. I can’t get it respond with the direction button either. 

Moonman posted:

it appears to me that the gateman is the short. Using the common rail as trigger is ok in place of a contactor switch. The power or AC hot should be directly from the transformer. I think it is just too much if it is all from the track.

If it's not that, recheck the wiring. I have attached the 145 wiring diagram, which is the same as the 45.

Have you bench tested the gateman to determine if the coil went bad or another short exists in the gateman?

 

It always worked before. I got it from eBay maybe 10 years ago. Tested it then. I’m assuming it could’ve developed one in the past year. Assuming that’s what it is. Is it lost cause or can I be repaired? I know some parts are available for the 45/145 but I’m not sure of specific parts

The link below from Lionel is a resource.  The key is the common for the accessory is hooked to the isolated rail.  You should not have any "pins" removed in your Fastrack.  Only the cross-bars on the tracks sections within the insulated section. 

Fastrack Accessory Track

Steims posted:

The link below from Lionel is a resource.  The key is the common for the accessory is hooked to the isolated rail.  You should not have any "pins" removed in your Fastrack.  Only the cross-bars on the tracks sections within the insulated section. 

Fastrack Accessory Track

I made my own isolated section. In that case outside rail pins were removed as well as bars. Was I not supposed to remove the pins? I always did with tubular but replaced with an insulating pin. That on a different part of the layout  

  The accessory pack  from Lionel is in tact. No pins were removed from the Lionel product. I did remove bars from 4 O-31 curves within that isolated section. 

No you are not to remove the pins.  You need to have continuity along the isolated rail from track piece to track piece for the duration of the section.  Only at the ends of the isolated section is the insulator/gap. 

The reason is that the accessory being activated is only attached to one piece of track.  However you want the accessory activated over 4 curves, one 10" straight and both 5" straights.  These trackes need the bars removed but the rails need to be connected.    

Those ones are all connected. I thought you were referring to the one I made. My apologies. 

Moonman posted:

it appears to me that the gateman is the short. Using the common rail as trigger is ok in place of a contactor switch. The power or AC hot should be directly from the transformer. I think it is just too much if it is all from the track.

If it's not that, recheck the wiring. I have attached the 145 wiring diagram, which is the same as the 45.

Have you bench tested the gateman to determine if the coil went bad or another short exists in the gateman?

 

 I remove the gate man,  And put the newer crossing in its place. The same thing happened. I get a little arc at the isolated section and lose all power to my engine at the O-31 curve that’s connected to the track.

I then removed the crossing and left the wire lead in place not connected to anything. Same thing happened. It happens sporadically though I don’t do anything differently. Could I have a bad piece of track?

I will throw in a comment that is related, but not to this specific incident. Someone brought a new 12029 to me that just did not detect the train. I found that the  10 inch section, even though it has a rail marked as insulated, has the strap installed on the underside that connects the two outside rails -- hence it was not insulated. This was a manufacturer error.  I removed the strap and it works well.