Lionel 6-16891 Tank Car Accident Circuit Board

Anyone know where to purchase this board?  Lionel is out and so is Brasseur Electric trains.

Thanks....

You might consider trying to fix that one.  What exactly is wrong with it?

John,

I'm not an electronic wiz, but I will give it a try.  No blinking lights and only one area gets power.  I put my meter to each plug, but its not getting any power through the board to each lighted station.  I disconnected the plugs and no power is going through.  My thoughts were just to replace the board.  Hmmmmm..  Thanks for your response.

I can take put my meter on it.  Perhaps some bad transistor(s)?

I pulled some of the leads, and power is not going through the board.  Not sure what else, and how to check where failure is coming from.  (See Pics).

Only getting power to the one light. (See pic 2)

What's the chip at U1 labeled?  I'd suspect that one isn't driving things properly.  I'd be looking for a common failure point, that that's one of them.  Also, use the meter to check the four diodes on the left and see that they're good.  It looks like a pretty simple circuit.

All the components look good and fairly robust. I think John has it pegged the problem is U1. But how to replace is the question.

First step is to determine what chip it is.   If several of the outputs got shorted, it could be a couple of the transistors as well.  Replacing U1 isn't a big deal, you just have to know what to put there.

Would U1 be the black box (with dimple).  The chips would be the four chip tabs on top and below the black box.  Next would be how to check ( I'm not much on electronics) and if it is bad what to purchase, and where?  Power it up and place meter where?  John, if you can place arrows, that would be great.  Thanks in advance.

Let's start with the numbers off the 8 pin IC on the board.

I just got one and mine also will only lite one lite.  On a hunch, I let it run (hooked up, turned on).  After about 5 minutes the other LEDs started flashing and the "one" turned from blue to red.  Have you tried this "simple fix"?  Nothing about it in the Manual.  Hope it works for you - it did for me!

Was this issue ever resolved,  parts unavailable to date

I could have a go at it. If I can't fix I will only charge return shipping.

Thread is over 2 years old, but if anyone is interested in component-level troubleshooting measure the DC voltage of the component labeled ZD1 (which is a Zener Diode).  This should probably read something like 5V DC in the polarity indicated. 

The black chip U1 with 8 legs is almost certainly a custom-programmed microcontroller chip for which there would be no end-user replacement.  My guess is the chip generates flickering pulses to drive the 3 transistors labeled Q1, Q2, and Q3.  These transistors then drive the 3 flickering "welding" LEDs.  If I understand the previous post, the microcontroller might also have a timer function which starts the flickering action several minutes after the board turns on.  

Anyway, if you don't measure 5V or so at ZD1, take a close look at component R1 circled in red.  In this picture is almost looks like there's some black discoloration under the component but this could just be my imagination!  But if in fact this 1-cent resistor R1 is toast, then if replacing I'd increase the 'wattage' rating.

I was hoping GRJ  would chime in..im sure he could help here.. i believe since the LEDs aree good a few jumpers will allow continous flicker, so add a push button to activate...the one i picked up is in identical shape as original post.... i figured i could fix it,  kitbash and add smoke.... 

No numbers on 8 pin

7 vdc at ZD1..   

R1 is clearly shot, looks burnt and im unable to read resistance...

  the right side of R1 connected to ZD1 has 7 vdc... other side R1 had 24vdc  

8 pin is probably from the Microchip 12F family such as the 50-cent PIC12F508 with power supply Pin1=+5V, and Pin8=Gnd which matches the Zener diode "power supply" used on the PCB:

But if you're measuring 7V DC as the U1 power supply voltage, that chip is probably toast.  I can't imagine Lionel selling this custom-programmed component by itself.   So even if you were able to "fix" whatever is going on with the burned out resistor R1 (which does the heavy lifting of dropping the 24V to 5V), it's for naught if you don't have a functional U1.  If the $10 PCB is not available I think you're out of luck.  

If you are a DIY'er, I think you can replicate the functionality for less than $5.  While there are many model train vendors selling flickering LED modules for campfire like scenery, these tend to be spendy … maybe $5-10 each albeit they can hook up to AC accessory voltage.

But you can buy flickering BLUE LEDs - just apply DC voltage and they start flickering! Here are some from eBay that are even pre-wired for about 25 cents each free shipping from Asia.

Then add an AC-to-DC converter module ($2-3 on eBay free shipping from Asia) and you're off to the races!

Old thread I know - Just got home from York (had to stay in PA and work for a bit) where I purchased what appears to be a new 37977 Hooker Tank Car Accident  - same as everyone above - only one LED is working - the steady blue light in the tank car itself - has there been any updates on a possible repair ???

Thank you in advance

Joe S

Since there several boards out there with the same problem, the common denominator seems to me as the capacitors.