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35 replies

Lionel Burlington Northern SD40 (with scale coupler)

Rich BattistaRich BattistaOGR Forum Member

I received two of the new BN SD40's yesterday and added a Kadee coupler to the front of one unit to see how they look.  I think they look great!  Lionel did a good job by providing the Kadee mounts on their new kinematic pilot.  I'm very satisfied with these units.  They are very detailed, minimal gaps, trucks tucked in nice, thinner handrail wires, fuel tank is low to the track...basically just like the prototype.  They run smooth and as usual sound great.  I like the horn much better on these than the previous SD40-2 which sounds like a goose that swallowed a harmonic.  The idle and revving sounds are well done.  There is no wobble from the traction tires and it feels like they can pull more cars than I can put on the track . 

The Kadee was easy to mount but you do have to remove the operating coupler. Photos below.  I chose to cut the wires at the coupler which can be solder back later if needed.  There may be a connector inside the engine to remove the whole assembly, but I was lazy and did not want to remove the shell.  I've added some photos of the assembly.

The only negative was that the front railing assembly broke off when I tried to straighten the railing.  It is just glued to the face of the deck with not much support.  It was not glued very well to begin with.  I had to clean the dried glue off an re-glued using all the available surface area.   It seems stronger now.  It will stay in place but be for be forewarned that if you try to straighten the rail it may break off.  I recommend pressing in on the base as you bend the rail.  If it breaks, its easy to re-glue.

Thanks,

www.toytrainsontracks.com

 

Burlington Northern SD40 - 2 realBurlington Northern SD40-3Burlington Northern SD40 - 6Burlington Northern SD40 - 8Burlington Northern SD40 - 10

Burlington Northern SD40 - 4

Burlington Northern SD40 - 5

Next are some photos of how to add the Kadee.  This or something like this will be on the next video.

First remove the truck by turning 90 degrees and lifting 

I unscrewed the coupler and cut the wires right were the black wire is soldered onto the copper coil wire.

I then put electrical tape on the ends and secured the loose wire under the metal braces.

SnapShot[6)-1

They included a mounting block/spacer.

You first screw on the Kadee to the mounting block before applying to the pilot.

Note: There are some springs included and I don't know what for.  They may be spares for the kinematic pilot.

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Then mount the block onto the pilot.

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Use the small screws to mount to the pilot and your done!.  Put the truck back and off you go.

 SnapShot[5)

 SnapShot[4)

 

 

 

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  • Burlington Northern SD40 - 2 real
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Rich BattistaRich BattistaOGR Forum Member

 John,

  The signal bridge is from MTH however I replaced the Pennsy lights with modern lights from MTH's small signal bridge.  I had to cut and re-attach them rotated by 90 degrees so they stand up straight when you plug them in.  I can easily switch between these and the Pennsy lights.  Detail are in my videos, I think part II.

Jeff,

  Thanks, handrails are next.  I have the piano wire I just need to order some BN green paint.  It will give it the finishing touch.

Bill,

  The color is mostly "Weathered Black" from Joe's model trains.  I bought it from Jeb at Mega-steam.  I also mix in some "Rust" from Model Master and some black to match a railroad tie which is the same color as the real rails that I found it next to.  These are all acrylic paints.  My part II video shows in detail how I mixed, matched and applied the weathering to the track.  Here are some screen shots.

 

SnapShot[8)SnapShot[9)SnapShot[10)SnapShot[11)

 

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Rich BattistaRich BattistaOGR Forum Member

Hi max!

Alex, I'm planning on having the new video ready for fall York.  These engines will surely be in the video and I will be showing how to add these couplers and probably how to extend the handrails. 

SD60M  --  I used the 740 Kadee coupler which is the newer metal box version. 

Lashed them up with my other SD40-2 and GP38.  The sounds are awesome with all four together.  They run so smooth at speed setting 1! 

IMG_6324

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Rich BattistaRich BattistaOGR Forum Member

Joe,

  I used a box cutter knife.. an x-acto will work well also.  I used the flat edge to scrap off the glue and paint and got down to the metal on the hand rail piece.  Try not to gouge it, the glue works better on flat smooth surfaces.  I also did this on the frame side as well.  I then used Gorilla Super Glue.   Use just enough to put a thin coat on both the railing piece and the mount on the frame.   Do both surfaces, front facing and the small one under the frame, that are at 90 degrees from each other.    I then firmly pressed and held it in place for about 20 seconds then let sit for an 1hr.  I tested lightly and it is certainly strong enough to stay through normal use.  I have no idea if it can withstand bending or getting bumped. 

The mount design is flawed.  The older SD40-2 I believe had a large metal mount that had a 90 degree bend that attached under the frame.  This new mount is just a metal plate glued to the face, so I can see why they are easily breaking off. 

Rich.

P PSU1980OGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

Rich,

More out of curiosity than anything else. When you unscrewed the coupler - why did you need to cut the wires were the black wire is soldered onto the copper coil wire? I would think that Lionel would have given enough room and space - plus a little extra wire to avoid folks messign around with the coupler. Second, did Lionel inser any instructions on the change out? In the past, they don't include it anymore, Altas, inserted a small cheat sheet for the couple exchange on their rolling stock. 

You menttion that ...."I then put electrical tape on the ends and secured the loose wire under the metal braces." Are you concerned this might come loose? Which goes back to the question of why cut the wire?

Thanks in advance for answering.

Kevin

Rich BattistaRich BattistaOGR Forum Member

Thank guys!

Alex, you going to be the star!!!

Kevin,

   You have to get rid of the 3-rail coupler right?  So it needs to be removed either by removing the whole wire and coupler assembly or just cutting off the coupler.  As I mentioned Lionel probably has a connector inside so you can remove the whole wire and coupler assembly.  You can see the twisted wire going into the shell via a circular hole.  I'm assuming you can remove the shell and pull the connector and feed it through the hole to remove the whole assembly.   It was just easier for me to cut it since it is very unlikely I will ever put it back and if I do its easy to solder.  Now I was left with a hanging wire I needed to secure so just but it under the brace.  The electrical tape is to avoid a short if I activate the coupler (thats not there). 

Rich

P PSU1980OGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

Rich,

Got it, makes sense. The first post I misunderstood the reason for cutting the wire. Makes sense for speed and to avoid pulling off the shell since it accomplished what needed to be done. It would be interesting to know if the connector does make it through the frame.

Thanks for the explaination.

Rich BattistaRich BattistaOGR Forum Member

Jofofry,

  I agree.  As I'm doing my next video and I'm showing how to install Kadees, I'm thinking that many folk will not want to give up their remote coupling operation like me.  Although, I'd rather give up the operation for the looks, but it would be great to have the best of both worlds.  Lionel and/or MTH are the likely candidates for making such a coupler. 

 

B.T.W. Someone asked for a comparison so here are some photos.  Number 7153 is the older Lionel SD40-2, and 6314 is the new SD40.

IMG_6328IMG_6330IMG_6331IMG_6339IMG_6340

 

 

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B Bill $OGR Forum Member

Hi, I just wanted to say that I had asked a question earlier on OGR forum about how Rich was able to paint and weather his rail to look so realistic.  Rather than the red/brown rust but a steel gray/black look that I prefer. His on line answer here was very good, I ordered all three of his DVDs and they are fabulous . I have been a model railroader now for +/- 50 years now and there were techniques and ideas that I have never seen or heard of.  I highly recommend them, there is something in there for everyone to learn from. Thank You  Bill   

P PSU1980OGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

Rich,

Thanks on the Kadee Coupler. I will try to find some at York later in the week. You have inspired me to change out the front coupler on my new BTO Southern Bell KCS ES44 from Lionel. If I am successful, your directions are excellent - I will think about converting a few more.

Noted on the new video for fall York - Sign me up for 2 Blu-ray videos.

Kevin 

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