Lionel CCs2 6-11154 Schematics or Diagrams

I'd put the R4LC in first with the bell control board and see where that leaves you.  If that fails, and you still have a short, I'd probably suspect the DCDS.  A quick diagnosis is to unplug the large black 6-pin connector and see if the short goes away.

This is the blown bell coil drive pcb,

Looks like U6 and C10 is shorted/blown.

Is 66RC the part number or L718

and could you help me on C10 value?

& description on U6

Regards,

John

I have a bell control board in the mail, when I get it I'll take a look.  I'm sure you understand that I'm not inclined to take apart one of my CC2s locomotives just to see what part it is!

Pretty sure that L718 would be the date code, in this case 2007 the 18th week.  I can't find a 66RC anywhere, so I don't know what that is.  I'd guess a FET, but that's just a guess.

My feelings exactly I do not want to have two of these apart at the same time. I just purchased the other one, on eBay last week. I’m hoping to double head them with a very large consist. 

Does TMCC allow two engines assigned the same ID? I’m hoping so that when I use the bell or steam effect they both do the same effect. If I lash them only front engine whistles and rings the bell.

You can use the same ID, though I think they typically work better in an MU configuration.

For Legacy, you can configure an MU so that both locomotives whistle and ring the bell, but only one will have crew talk.  Also, the lighting usually works better configured as an MU, though since the CC2s is early Legacy, it may not be perfect.

FWIW, I just picked up a second one, I think they'll be really boss running together.  I'll have to figure out how to renumber one of them, though all the lighted number boards will be a challenge.

The cc-2 uses a RCDR not r4lc. I have the board  in hand that you have in picture and I don't see those components  on my board. You have a better overall picture of the board I can see.

Right you are Bob, I actually ordered one of those RCDR's to have a spare, so I actually should know that!

Here's the bell control board, I'm not seeing those components either.

However, if we look at the smoke fan control board, we have better luck.

The posters picture does not  look like  the smoke fan pcb board ,close but not correct. C10, he claims to be a cap. but on the smoke pcb board it is a resistor r32

It may be a bell board. I have one thats similar though not exact. I assume there were changes along the way.

Before installing a new or repaired board make sure you check the bell coil. It should read about 100 ohms. Yours may be shorted. I got three bell coils and two had their leads ripped out. The coil is wound with wire thinner than your hair so reattaching them took a bit of effort. The way they are assembled (read poorly) its possible the two leads got shorted under the tape.

If your coil does read shorted you may be able to fix it after removing the tape. 

BTW on my board the cap is labeled C3 but in the same location. Its a 10uf, 106C.

Pete

Probably right about the changes, clearly the bell board as pictured doesn't look like that one he posted.

Here is a picture of both sides. I have one on order from Lionel. But would repair this one for a spare if possible. I also checked the tethered Bridge and it is good.

This is a picture of the RCDR I do not see any issues visually.

This is the I am using. They are different. One thing I noticed is yours seems to use   outside rail ground while mine has both outside rail and signal common. My bell board does not respond if Legacy common from the RCDR is not connected to this  board. Makes me wonder if your board will work directly with a TMCC signal vs Legacy.

Pete

Mine is rev 2 yours is rev 1, can you get me the value on the cap c10 and the number of the part right above. It’s a little fuzzy to read

The regulator appears to be a TI M2937IMP-5.0 low dropout 5V regulator, the device marking is L71B for this part.

The cap is a 10uf tantalum, don't know what the voltage is, but probably in the 16-25 volt range from the size. 

Yes, I just got my bell controllers in.

Great John thanks I’ll let you know how it’s going after I get my parts.

Did you ever fix this board?

 Yes,The bell controller is fixed. The motor controller is still giving me issues.  I also replaced the motor encoder that was really easy and worked well. I sent two defective  Motor controllers back to Lionel that took about six weeks for them to turn them around. I tested them without installing them completely they seem to work fine then once I put the engine all together and installed them all the way, when I put it on the layout it started having issues not communicating well. so back to the bench and she runs ok at low speeds but when I increase to speed 5 or 6 she comes to a stop. If I roll the knob down a few steps she starts to run again. I’m thinking about throwing in the towel and asking Lionel to repair it.  I’m not sure if this is a motor control issue or a radio controller or radio circuit board issue. I’m bad enough at Electronics but without any type of schematics or block diagrams It’s almost darn impossible!

I’m really almost to embarrassed to post since I never got it all the way fixed. I have another Cc2s engine that runs just fine. I repaired the smoke unit on the whistle and it’s putting out smoke great. Thanks for asking!

I have two of them, one has a bad chuff switch.  I haven't gotten around to fixing it, the chuff switch is buried in the worst possible place, and I'll be taking a LOT of stuff off to get to it!   It works about 80-90% of the time, then it misses a few chuffs.  Very annoying.

Mine has the same chuff issue and it is annoying.

Also, the whistle steam is terrible. It is impossible to see unless I turn the smoke off then quickly back on, then blow the whistle. It gives whistle steam fairly well for a few blows, then that’s it.

Well, the whistle steam is an easy fix, most likely a rebuild of the smoke unit is the cure.  The chuff switch is a bit more problematic, as it's truly buried under a lot of stuff!

Is it the chuff switch or a board that causes it to miss a chuff as you described....which is the same problem mine has?

It's 99.9% of the time the chuff switch.  Usually, all you have to do is bend the arm a bit to restore function.

I have a friend who is  trying to work out some details on the tender wiring:  Background, I got an engine in pieces without tender, was able to get the matching engine shell and tender shell, but do not have the rest of the tender. I have on the way from Lionel the matching tender railsounds mainboard, already bought the matching sound card, have on hand a RS power board, and the matching IR drawbar receiver assembly. Lionel doesn't have the frame or both trucks so I'm going to have to be creative.

Easy enough to trace the wires and so forth, but the point is, the mainboard does not have this matching connector. I don't have an example tender nor wiring diagram. Here is a picture of the connector from the top shell of the tender.

 

Here is a picture from Lionel parts of the mainboard. Notice no single connector has that many pins.

Then there is this TACHII board, that might be for the IR legacy transmitter facing downward. It too appears to only be an 8 pin connector, not 9.

 

Gunrunnerjohn was kind enough to share this quick picture of his tender confirming the oddball "TACHII" board, but he was unable to trace the wiring.

 

I really need a wiring diagram, but lacking that, just an understanding, is there some plug free floating in the harness that 9 pin connector plugs into? Or is it to one of these boards directly? Or possibly, like some MTH tenders where there is a mounted circuit board termination point for easy assembly?

Lionel doesn't sell the harness, nor can I find a wiring diagram.

Also, if anyone has a spare tender frame and trucks?

 

The stuff that's connected to the 9-pin connector will mostly go to the RailSounds card via the motherboard.  One only has to break out the ohmmeter when you get the motherboard.  you'll see the pot connections, coupler and rear light ground (hot is track power), etc.  Something that's not on this diagram happens to be the RS/SS switch, it was omitted for some reason.  However, it's in the same place as on the RS4 boards, so just use that diagram, also provided.  I'm sure all of those end up on motherboard connections.

As I said previously, the only thing I can imagine that "tach" board is doing is perhaps providing the interface for the IR transmitter for LCS, I can't imagine any other function.  There is no tach or sensor on the trucks, so it ain't doing the function that it sounds like it would be.   The same board is also in the 2010 VL Challenger tender, which lends credence to my idea that it's a kludge to run the IR transmitter.

Note that the RS 5.5 board in this locomotive is the RS 5.0 hardware, just has the first generation Legacy sound chips.  The sound motherboard is a generic one that's used in other similar vintage locomotives.

Thanks again as always GunrunnerJohn!

S/F Mike