Lionel consolidation and switch track short

Easier to mess with the switch. Put a piece of tape over the spot on the rail that it hits, or file down the rail so that it doesn't make contact anymore.

They hit all the track switches the same as the blind drivers are too thick and set to low.

Are the inner faces of the blind drivers chamfered? If not, you might consider chamfering the inner faces so as to stop them shorting.  I saw another thread recently where this had been done, but I can't seem to find it at present. I'm sure that somebody will chime in with details though.  

No they are not and they are a bit wide side to side i might add!

No real solution to offer. Just mentioning that we have the same issue with our Lionel PRR Consolidation.

Shorts out when going slowly through the curved leg of Fastrack 036 turnouts.

This is the only loco in our roster that doesn't agree with our Fastrack turnouts.

 

Regarding the inner edge chamfering - Would you be able grind it down, in place, with a dremmel? Or would it require removing the driver and turning it properly on a lathe?

if I disconnected the motor so the wheels would turn free could a bench grinder maybe work to grind down the blind drivers? would be hard for me to pull them off as I do not own a wheel puller.

I'm pretty brave when it comes to "unconventional repair methods," but I don't think I'd go there. 

 

If it were me, I'd try chamfering the edge with a dremel enough to matter, doing a small section at a time as I can reach it, then running it a bit to turn the wheel a fraction, and doing the next section, etc., until all is done.  It would take some time.    I'd take care not to get debris from the grinding into the loco, off course, and I'd anticipate needing a lot of the small sanding drums, but i think that would be the best unconventional way to fix it (the best way of course would be to disaasemble it and put the drivers on a lathe.)

thanks lee.  I have sent an email to frank timco to see if he could do it as he has put slots in for the traction tires. maybe? as for the frog snot there is less than a buisness  card space between the driver and the rail head. I think the frog snot would be too thick although I am not sure.

Timko to the rescue!! I emailed frank timko and he said he could machine them for me. I am also going to let him install the ERR cruise m board and boar out the smoke stack. Then this will be a fine running loco. Thanks to mr. Timko my newly acquired engine will not have to be a shelf queen after all !!!

Make sure that the pilot truck wheels are gauged correctly. They are usually gauged too narrow on the Lionel 2-8-0.

Guys,

i too have a consolidation with the same problem. I was woundering if Lee could expand on the Frog Snot method of insulating the center rail of the Fastrack switch. I would prefer try this low cost method over sending the engine out for expensive repairs.

Thanks,

Dave

Nc dave, I think the frog snot method will work but keep in mind you would have to track down and pinpoint where on the switch the short with the blind drivers is occurring and apply the frog snot. This is easy to do but if you have a lot of switches as I do it just would be a pain in the butt. Then you may cause issues with other engines and there pick up roller spacing maybe needing to contact that specific area on the switch to get power. Third you have to consider that over time the frog snot may wear off and need to be reapplied at some point. Frank timko quoted me about $25 to machine down all the blind drivers.Four total.With this being done you have the best fix IMO and no issues with having to fix every switch. Also think about cleaning the track.that spot where you apply the frog snot could get a build up of goo over time. Also the thickness of the applied frog snot maybe an issue as well. although I am not sure on this one. For me the low cost of having the blind drivers turned seemed better than a couple of bucks worth if frog snot and all the extra work involved! Just my two cents!

Lionelzw|2012

You may be right about the frog snott. I will call Frank Timko after York and see what he says about it. But I object to doing Lionel's engineering for them. This should have been discovered I when the engine was in the prototype develoment stage.I wish I had known about this problem before I purchased this engine. I think I would have passed on it if I had known. 

Nc dave, remember that back then fasttrack was not around.only tube track. And jon z was not designing the models electronics! It was bob gruba I belive. This was probably tested on tube track and worked ok. This model is fairly old now. Plus the all the designs back then had some issues I am sure. But the model looks to good to not get it running smooth like todays modern stuff. I love speed control and plan to as stated above have frank install err cruise m board. Do the smoke mods myself and then I will have a great running consolidation with a oil fired tender! I got it so cheap that all the extra cost and work is well worth it in the end for me. I run command only and can't wait to have the work done and get it back! I am saving the money to send it to frank. I highly recomend you try the mods I plan on doing and get it off the shelf queen list. You'll be glad you did!

LionelZW|2012,

I will be working on it over the next few months. it's a good alternative to working on scenery. I definitely will call Frank Timko once I return from my York trip. Hopefully I will have a few dollars left for the Connie. I guess the reason I'm disappointed is that I have wanted one for a long time. I found this one on the forum at a fair price and was looking forward to running it alongside my other steamers. If not for the shorting issue on 036 switches the engine runs great. But now the smoke unit has stopped working. Looks like I will have to put some money aside to send it to the shop.

Dave

I've had the same problem with my MTH engines and KLine Super Snap switches. I tried some black Liquid Electrical Tape and it seems to work. Will have to monitor how long it lasts. Does the Frog Snot work better than what I'm using? Does anyone know if similar problems exist with Ross tinplate switches?

Ed