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Hello All,

 

Here are a few photos of my Lionel scale 40' die cast flatcars on to which I added more realistic looking loads instead of the fake plastic tarps.  Didn't want to get carried away making new wood decks and weathering things so I took some shortcuts.  The cars already have wooden decks of either natural colored basswood/balsa wood with faint lines inscribed in them for planking.  I used a utility knife and scribed the original lines deeper into the wood.  This was to make the "planks" stand out better after I stained the decks with Minwax(already had it on hand).  The wood cribbing on both cars is made from various sizes of basswood from the local Pat Catan's craft store.  The chains also came from the same store.

 

I had a couple of used US Steel plastic girders from a damaged postwar girder bridge that I mounted on the first flatcar.  The rivet holes on the girder bases are close to 1/8" diameter,  so I transferred the hole locations onto the cribbing pieces,  then set them all in place and drilled a 1/8" through them and the flatcar deck.  Spacing was careful so I didn't drill into the die cast beam on the bottom of the car.  After staining the deck and the cribbing,  I pushed 1/8" dowel rod into the holes to mount the girders.  Then added the chain and the springs for a little tension.  The springs came from my local mom & pop Daniel's Variety store.

 

On the second flatcar,  I used a Lionel pre-mounted propeller that I purchased from their parts dept.  I filed the bottom of the wood propeller frame to get it flat.  The chains are run through existing holes in the flatcar deck and tied together with a simple piece of wire under the car.  The crate on the flatcar came from Weaver,  to which I added a small Army Corps of Engineers sticker(I'm retired from the Corps).  The cribbing is basswood which extends over the stake pockets on the sides of the flatcar.  I drilled small holes in the cribbing,  directly over the stake pockets,  and inserted small finishing brads through the wood and into the pockets.  This holds the load in place.  I used a small amount of clear kitchen and bath silicone to help hold everything in place on both cars.  Like I said,  I took some shortcuts but I didn't want to make these major projects!!!

I hope these may help to give someone some ideas.

 

Nick  

 

  

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Hello Everyone,

Here is my latest custom load project using the Lionel 40' diecast flatcar w/wood deck.   The flatcar itself started out as an Erie RR with the wheel load.   Took off the wheel load and removed the wheel rack which required drilling out the 2 aluminum rivets holding the rack to the wood deck.   I then scribed the wood planking lines deeper using a utility knife and then stained the deck with Minwax Provincial(had some on hand in a small can).   Also removed the Erie lettering with Cutex advanced nail polish remover and added Union Railroad decal lettering.  The transformers are Walthers Cornerstone HO kits that I purchased some time back for another project that I never started(does that sound familiar?).   After some quick measuring,  I saw that they would be the right size for the 40' flatcar loads,  so I assembled and painted them-I still need to add a few small decals.   The wood cribbing/skids are made from different size Midwest products basswood and are glued together/down with Elmers carpenters glue.   The wood crate is also made from basswood along with Plastruct right angle material for the corner bracing.   Drilled 4 holes in the deck for the hold down chains(which I purchased at the local Pat Catan's craft store).   The chains are held together underneath the car with small extension springs purchased at the local Daniel's Discount-a local mom & pop variety store that i have been shopping at for over 40 years.   I just kept cutting off the chain links until I had the right amount of tension to keep the chain in place.   I still need to add some Westinghouse stencils/logos to the ends of the crate.   While not detailed to the extent of the work of some of the fine craftsmen here on the forum,  it will be a car that I can operate and be different from the same-o,  same-o.

Nick

 

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Thanks,  Chris.

Agree 100% on the cheap factory loads on a nice car.   Being diecast,  these cars have good weight plus they ride low on the trucks and roll very well.   I bought a bunch of these cars several years ago for $30-$40 each but now the prices seem to be going up.   What manufacturer's 5th wheel hitch are you using?

Nick

In all likelihood a large propeller would not be shipped with 2 blades up and 1 down; inherently unstable.

I had at one time (maybe I still do, somewhere...I need to find it) the Traditional Lionel car where this load originated and I turned my prop 180 to lower the center of gravity.

In fact, when the dimensions allow, a prop like this is shipped flat or nearly so. I know because I live in a city where such was/is made and occasionally seen being moved to the waterfront. 

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D500 posted:

In all likelihood a large propeller would not be shipped with 2 blades up and 1 down; inherently unstable.

I had at one time (maybe I still do, somewhere...I need to find it) the Traditional Lionel car where this load originated and I turned my prop 180 to lower the center of gravity.

In fact, when the dimensions allow, a prop like this is shipped flat or nearly so. I know because I live in a city where such was/is made and occasionally seen being moved to the waterfront. 

Well D500,

You are entitled to your opinions,  but I must respectfully disagree with some of them.   I will agree,  that when possible, the props are shipped laying flat.   My hands on experience comes from spending 38 years as a machinist,  the last 30 as a journeyman in the maintenance field,  and the last 20 years of my working career as a machinist for the US Army Corps Of Engineers.   One of my responsibilities with the Corps was the measurement and inspection of various items(including propellers of different sizes) that were produced by government contractors.   I can assure you some of the props that I personally inspected were shipped(by rail and barge) like the ones I modeled-I may have left out a few braces on my model-sorry.   As far as them being inherently unstable when shipped this way-whether the props were made of aluminum bronze or stainless steel-they are extremely heavy and there is still enough weight down low combined with the bracing for stability.   In addition,  the hoisting and lowering of the props(2 blades up) into their shipping cradles is much easier as heavy duty webbed slings are placed inboard as far as possible under the 2 upright blades.    Another factor in shipping the props is whether they have bare bores(with no shafting installed) or they are already pressed/shrunk onto shafting-I've seen them both ways.  Anyway those are my opinions.

Nick

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