lionel diecast trucks?

try using a small rubber band or even a small cable tie behing the trigger. If it doesnt slide back the coupler cant open. I've done that on a few pieces of rolling stock.

I use the dental rubber bands which I slide all the way back so they're not visible but the couplers still operate, albeit with more force.

I really dislike just about everything about these couplers, from the too-long shaft (unrealistic distance between cars) to the awkward uncoupling motion to the way that they cannot be adjusted or really even fixed. That shaft breaks fairly easily, too. Can't fix it, either.

All this because of a little harmless "thumbtack", that worked better, had a better uncoupling motion and could actually be adjusted and finessed within reason.

The best O-gauge coupler design remains the Lionel magnetic PW knuckle coupler - adjustable, rugged, no thumbtack, proper vertical uncoupling finger action and typically very dependable in its coupling/uncoupling function. I have even used PW coupler upgrade kits on Weaver and other trucks. Not nostalgia as I have new stuff, mostly; it is just a design - and a kit - that needs to return.

D500 I agree 100% those couplers with the little manual tab were the best. the ones I have in the photo seem to be either good or bad and irreparable. unfortunately these are whats on my new smoking mechanical reefer and one has already bit the dust. trouble is it has a pickup roller designed into it.

I have managed to reverse engineer it. so I just have to wait on the new diecast trucks I ordered to mount the pickup roller and solder the wires on. then it will be good as new. I looked up the item number on the lionel parts sight and no parts were listed. maybe these cars are too new yet to have replacement parts.

this car is way too cool and over 150 dollars btw to have rubber bands or twist ties and such on the messed up coupler. I want it operating as it was ment too.

I agree other designs can be tweeked to work good this design fails in that catagory or at lest I have never found a good method. hence the question posted.

Found out one thing today. I got some new sets of these coulpers today to fix my broken one. I was using some very light drops of 100% synthetic model oil lubricant on the moving parts. I just tryed some kaydee coupler graphite I had laying around instead of the synthetic oil to make the coupler mechanism parts have less friction and to help them work smoother.

This helped a lot and made a succnificant difference on these couplers. Now the moving parts are moving as they should. The oil I did not realize was just gummimg up the moving parts and making things worse. Not perfect, but made a big difference in these working better and as they should. Just thought I would pass this on to who ever this might want to know this.