Lionel FasTrack Reliability Modifications

The FasTrack switches are most likely one of the most reliable switches from a mfg. out of the box.

I wouldn't do anything except use it until you have an issue.(Which I doubt that you will)

Track power, program it and have fun.

Oh yeah, be careful that you don't lose the lanterns. The gremlins like them a lot.

Fastrack switches are bulletproof.  I had up to 22 at one time.  I had something like an average of 80,000 operations per switch over that whole set in  my experience, I had only two malfunction, in eight years.  

I'd use them as the manual says and otherwise leave them alone

All I have done to my collection of FasTrack switches is to disconnect the 'remote control' switch and wires, as I don't use those.

The command control versions are the ultimate 'plug-and-play' switches. Just put them in place, program them, and enjoy years of reliable operation. I've not encountered a single problem with any of mine.

My FasTrack switches have been working out of the box for the last 5 years without any problems.  They are fast and reliable.  I would not do anything to them, just enjoy one of the best O gauge switches on the market today.

Steve, Lady and Tex

We (LHS) have four O36 switches that are on a 4X8 layout...oval/figure 8...wired to operate automatically for continuous change of route.  The layout was built about 6-7 years ago, we're open 7 days a week, the layout operates on request of the customer and sees about an hour a day of running time. 

The ONLY problem we've had with the switches was within the first couple of days of running....the lanterns would pop off after multiple operations.  Easily fixed: A dot of tacky glue on the base of the lamp....and NEVER again to pop off.

On the other hand....the trains that have run on the layout????  Well, not such a sterling 'track' record.

Ergo, I'd address the lantern pop-off issue, but have nary any other concern.

Run 'em, man!!

KD

FasTrack switches, in my experience, are about as bulletproof as you can find, and rank right up there with the equally bulletproof and reliable ross switches (probably the #1 choice among those who are hi-rail enthusiasts).

I'm not as positive as the rest, but chalk it up to my own personality I suppose.

Fastrack switches have been known (and I experienced it) to blow what I'll call their "Line Fuse", a 2 Ohm 1/4 Watt Metal Film Flame-Proof resistor (sealed within about 1.5 inch of heat-shrink tubing of 1/8" heat-shrink tubing).

Moreover, recent purchases (implying poorer Quality Assurance on Lionel's part) has given me aggravation with something as simple as "Flash" (extra plastic protruding from the track base) that extends enough behind the switching mechanism that causes a scraping noise when switching directions

Not a complicated fix (remove the metal base, remove the geared plastic plate that connects to the motor and the spring-loaded shaft, cut away the "flash", and then re-assemble)...but that's not my job...it's Lionels!!!

The older folks here deserve the respect and opinions they present.

But I'd like to propose that newer purchaser's (like myself) carry some weight too.

I can't remember a post about Fastrack switch modifications.   Mine have been very reliable for numerous years.   Perhaps the thread starter is thinking about the Atlas switch issues?

Dave R:  if you have a pic on the "line fuse", that would be helpful.  Just curious, I have not had any problems.

-Ken

All my FasTrack switches are manual O36 ones.  I have 5 of them, got them all at once about 5-6 years ago for an under the bed layout for myself and my now 10 year old son.  They've been sat on, Hot Wheels drove on, stood on, kicked, on and on.  They still work great without any derailments or power issues.  We have to throw them by moving the points because the throw stands are long gone, most of them bent and broken off.

Ken,

No photo, but here is thread FasTrack Switch Failure

I tend to think this is user induced to cook a resistor.

Sure "User induced" (even by me by a collision at a switch that connected aux power to track power), but it's still something that needs to be fixed, right?

I've found at least one thread here that addresses this 2 ohm resistor, so I'd like to (constructively) put some input to it:

- 2 Ohms: Decided by Lionel for whatever technical reasons

- "Metal Film": Small wire-wound devices, not unlike the wire you see in any glass-enclosed fuse. The wire acts like a fuse that burns up and opens a shorted connection (protecting expensive electronics).

- "Flame Proof": A composite design of the resistor manufactured to break connection without over-heating or long-term heat generated.

- 1/4 Watt:Calculated by Lionel to burn-up prior to the (expensive) electronics getting destroyed.

I wonder if "Flame Proof" is necessary if the entire connection is encapsulated in heat-shrink tubing (or for that matter, if the original Lionel device is "Flame Proof"). Without color-band markings or such, it's impossible to tell.

For a whopping $6 on eBay I was able to purchase 5 of these resistors and enough heat shrink tubing to fix 4 more in the future.

And that's with shipping included!

Thanks Moonman, that gets the discussion back on "track".

With the thread titled "Lionel FasTrack Reliability Modifications", wouldn't specific component values towards reliability contribute?

Am I missing something?

Gentlemen,

    The Command Control FasTrack 072 switches need no modifcation to run all my Tin Plate and Post War Trains, whether Conventional or P2.   They are the most Bullet Proof Lionel switches I have ever used, only the orginal Lionel Tin Plate 711 switches work as well, however the 711's are not low voltage or wireless remote controlled. The FasTrack 072 Command Control Switches are the next generation of quality Lionel Switches, as gunrunnerjohn said, unless you have a problem with one, do not modify them NIB.

PCRR/Dave

To be technical, metal film resistors are not wire-wound resistors.  They use a very thin electrostatically deposited metal film to provide the resistive element.

I've also experienced a issue with a number of fastrack switches. I find it amazing that

a bad cherry switch blows a resistor. I've had this experience on 3 switches.

I also think Lionel should package these differently. I believe they are packed with the

switch rail in one position. This causes one cherry switch to be in the closed position during it's package life. Not a good thing. As these cherry switches aren't of the highest quality.

When operational the switches work as expected, But, Lionel should really address some of the weak points.

I was somewhat appalled when I opened up my first Fastrack switch, but my fears have proven to be groundless, they seem to work great.

John, Shawn and Dave, it's not just FasTrack switches that are a surprise when you first open one. I have some Kato 'N' gauge, and one of my switches was d.o.a. When I opened it up, I discovered that one of the solenoid wires was incorrectly routed, and was squashed against the other lead and the metal base plate. These wires have no additional insulation apart from the lacquer  coating (They are continuations of the solenoid windings.) and this was not sufficient to prevent a dead short. The internals of these switches are extremely basic, yet normally very reliable. Once I re-routed the wiring and put it all back together, it has worked perfectly ever since. 

Nicole, after many years designing Aerospace equipment, some of the stuff I see in fairly expensive models kinda' curls my hair, can't be helped.

Gunrunnerjohn,

    We agree again, I was just like you when I 1st saw them, infact the 036 switches did not get along with my Tin Plate trains because of the amount of plastic in the switches, however after purchasing my 1st set of 072 Command control switches, all my fears have been removed, they work great and are low voltage, allowing me to use track power to operate all of them, and man I love the control from the hand held remote.  Now if my Legacy would just get here, things would be great, having both DCS & Legacy.

PCRR/Dave

You missed a nice Legacy system for $300 a couple of days ago in the for-sale forum.

Gunrunnerjohn,

    Nuts I was not on the board for a short time, been busy here, had to custom make some legs for my Werner extention ladders to set up for cleaning out my roof gutters, and I missed that sales offer.   Been waiting a long time for my new Legacy, I may have to invest in an older Cab unit if I do not get my Legacy before Thanksgiving, when I start to rebuild the Christmas layout. 

PCRR/Dave

I figured that one wouldn't last long.  A guy in the club is waiting too, and I was tempted to buy for him, it was a good deal.