I was attempting to put some RedNTacky into my H10; however, when inserting the needle into the port over the 3rd axle, the syringe inserted the length of the needle all the way to the ceiling of the boiler; totally expected it to contact the gear but it didn't. In the other ports, the needle only went in a small length. Any ideas on how to get the gear greased? See pic:
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Remove the whole bottom cover by removing the screws that are not grease ports. This will expose the internal gears as well as the axles and bushings making lubing it properly a piece of cake.
Just pay attention to how the axle bushings fit into the chassis.
The grease port is no where near the gears and the grease just piles up in one end of the gearbox.
Thanks RickO! I saw those plate mounting screws; once removed and the plate lifted, does that plate release the axles to fall out or move?
As long as you keep the loco upside down you should be fine. The axles should stay in the chassis. Just make sure the bushing don't rotate so they fit properly when reassembling. Not a big deal.
It's a pretty slick setup that goes back to the tmcc version in 2001.
Too bad Lionel didn't keep engineering gearboxes like this.
Wow, how long is your needle!?
There are things that can go wrong when you take the bottom plate off, which might complicate reassembly. Personally I would use a syringe like this, with the curved tip angled toward the 3rd axle.
https://www.amazon.com/12-Disp...Curved/dp/B0002YFRAW
This should allow lubricating the drive gear without removing the bottom plate.
As was discussed on the K4 gear thread, there are actually two gears (one is the worm wheel) on an intermediate shaft further up into the boiler. These should be greased from the factory. But to reach them, I think you would either have to remove the bottom plate, or take the motor out. Supposedly this voids the new product warranty. My $.02.
These h10s came from Lionel with practically dry gearboxes Ted.
They come apart fairly easy for a novice at train repair like myself.
They are also sparse in detail so there's not a lot that could be damaged by handling.
As long as one doesn't strip the screws I don't see how Lionel could know if it was opened. Having said that. Ironically, some of these H 10s were delivered with stripped and missing screws
RickO posted:As long as one doesn't strip the screws I don't see how Lionel could know if it was opened. Having said that. Ironically, some of these H 10s were delivered with stripped and missing screws
I'm a member of that club! The heads of the screws on my tender were all rounded, clearly the power screwdriver got the best of the operator! I had to resort to a reverse drill bit and screw remover to get several of them out.
RickO and Ted and GRJ, thanks for the info; I bit the bullet and removed the cover over the axles. Turned out to be easy. Put the H10 into my foam cradle upside down so that it would not move; removed 2 black screws holding the cover down; removed the 2 screws holding the contact rollers; the cover over the axles came up quite easily; was very careful to not disturb the brass bearings on the axles; there was very little lube on the gears; added RedNTacky. There is a square plastic spacer on the cover under the rear contact roller to keep track of. See pics:
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
