Lionel Legacy C&O consolidation 893

Nice job on the makeover. I did a relettering job a few years back from the previous run. Can you show a close up pic. and describe how you created the running board over the air compressor. I model the Rutland and they had that feature.

These engines and the 10 Wheelers are great for the hobby. While not cheap. They are at a price point that lets you be a modeler. Adding details and small changes and not worried about what you might do to it’s collector value. You tinker with it. Then enjoy your unique creation.

I was all in for a Western Pacific. Had the correct rd. number on the headlight and backup light for the Rutland that I model. Got a heads up that it was delivered with an oil tender. Well that’s off my list. I just saw a photo of an HO Brass Rutland Consolidation. I’m guessing factory painted. Red window trim, white running boards, white rimmed drivers and tender wheels. The HO guys are sticklers for getting it right. The white trim I knew about but not the red cab windows. Well the Maine Central Consolidation looks the part. I would hate to remove the lettering from such a great looking northeast steamer. Down the road if I find one at a good price. I’ll probably pick one up.

DaveC

Here's the pictures of the running board mod's to my C&O 893.  This was the third attempt at doing this.

This is still crude by many standards but??

The running boards are about 0.072 thick which is odd, There is no brass or plastic at 0.070 which would be the closest even number,  I used Evergreen 0.060 with a brass splice plate underneath to extend the running board.  I tried 0.080 but it appeared way too thick. attached back, edge and splice with JB Weld.

The step is cut from 0.060 x 0.250 trip using a NWSL chopper to get straight cuts.  There is not enough surface area for an adhesive joint so I used micro nails (0.018 dia) as pins drilling the holes with a pin vise.  I did use JB Weld in addition to the mechanical pins.

I might could have filed the pin heads down, but didn't want to risk tearing things up.  Currently the edge is natural white styrene.  It will probably dress a little better when the edge is actually painted.

My first try was an adhesive joint with brass corner reinforcement, but no strength,  second try was brass but no way to bend the tight reverse steps., so this was the third try solution.

As to wrong tenders, don't let that stop you, I've swapped several.  Bought several of various sizes over the years.  You have to transfer the electronics, but the later stuff is much smaller and not too bad, The earlier versions took a little more work - have had to make different spacers or offset components.  Only the smallest of engines and slope back tenders may not be possible.

Good luck and go for a Rutland engine, you might get a factory job, but don't count on it or hold your breath till it comes out.

Well if you want to talk crude.  The Consolidation has no provision to add a front coupler. Doubleheading on my road is important and I like my motive power to be adaptable. I decided to pick up a couple of pilots at last years half price sale. I settled on one from a Mountain as I could get the right coupler height. I run Kadee’s. Took most of a morning to come up with a bracket. When I was confident it would work I hacked the factory steps off the running boards. The top step is off as they had to be lowered. It works well and the Rutland’s did have pilot steps.

Kudos on a fine job, Gray!  Always great to see somebody care about smaller steam enough to make mods like this.

Gray, …do you have a train room, or do you live in a museum??…..those walls go on for miles, and they’re covered in trains,…..sup wit dat?…great job on the little C&O BTW,…

Pat

It's called Three Dimensional Wallpaper.