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@rplst8 posted:

If you’re wondering if it has the problem, you don’t have to look, it has the exact same problem.

If you do open it, be careful of the black bunting on the engine. It’s very fragile.

I haven’t had the funeral engine come across my plate yet, …..( or at least with the shell on) ……..what’s up with the black bunting?…..how is it affixed?…is it that bad?….( not being smart! I swear!!)

Pat

Bunting is right under the headlight Pat. It looks nice but is fragile like most things in the industry.

Yeah, ….I’ve seen Ryan say it’s fragile as all get out ……but I haven’t had the the shell of that engine come across my plate …..I’ve done about 5-6 dozen of the K4’s , but most folks got pretty smart and just sent their chassis to me,…..saved them money, and me time……

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Yeah, ….I’ve seen Ryan say it’s fragile as all get out ……but I haven’t had the the shell of that engine come across my plate …..I’ve done about 5-6 dozen of the K4’s , but most folks got pretty smart and just sent their chassis to me,…..saved them money, and me time……

Pat

I'd wind up breaking something removing the shells off of mine. Yikes.

It’s actually the bunting on the grab rails along the length of the boiler that I had trouble with. Each piece is brass (I think) and soldered to the next and so on. The pads that hold them together aren’t much wider than a few millimeters, and are extremely thin. I was able to fix mine, but some of the solder joints were weak/cold at least on my copy.

@harmonyards I posted pictures of the inside of mine in this thread, somewhere. Page 2 or 3 I think. I emailed you a while back to see if I could measure and then you make your spacer and you graciously agreed, but I got lazy and distracted by my next project (a Legacy PRR T1) and never followed up.

Edit: Found it, page 5. These threads need an index and table of contents, lol.

https://ogrforum.com/...5#159096765576316035

Last edited by rplst8
@rplst8 posted:

It’s actually the bunting on the grab rails along the length of the boiler that I had trouble with. Each piece is brass (I think) and soldered to the next and so on. The pads that hold them together aren’t much wider than a few millimeters, and are extremely thin. I was able to fix mine, but some of the solder joints were weak/cold at least on my copy.

@harmonyards I posted pictures of the inside of mine in this thread, somewhere. Page 2 or 3 I think. I emailed you a while back to see if I could measure and then you make your spacer and you graciously agreed, but I got lazy and distracted by my next project (a Legacy PRR T1) and never followed up.

Edit: Found it, page 5. These threads need an index and table of contents, lol.

https://ogrforum.com/...5#159096765576316035

Yeah, this thread got long, but it’s chock full of some very useful information, ….it is a great example of how this group of people ( including you, Dave, and couple of the others )  can come together, devise a fix, develop the list of offenders, and keep this thread as valuable tool,……email me whenever you’d like to tackle that engine, we’ll figure it out…..

Pat

It's always good to have a few extra eyes look at things and help fix/offer opinions or facts on how to. It amazes me sometimes just seeing how helpful outside eyes can help solve things like this. Just don't let me open any shells, lol.

One of my computer science profs in college used to say “beware of CompSci majors wielding screwdrivers.”

I dare say, I resemble that remark!

Last edited by rplst8

It's always good to have a few extra eyes look at things and help fix/offer opinions or facts on how to. It amazes me sometimes just seeing how helpful outside eyes can help solve things like this. Just don't let me open any shells, lol.

Dave, ….you are the keeper of the thread on this one!……you kept the records on the straight & narrow!……all one has to do is scroll through your lists, and determine if they want to take action or not…….what really struck my cords is the whiners stayed away and didn’t clutter the thread,……so we’ve got 10 or so odd pages of design elements, thought processes, locomotive identification, timeline clarification, you name it!…..makes for a great body of work,……and Dave did all hunter/gatherer work and kept the list current…….🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗 ( my pseudo round of applause for you Dave! )

Pat

Last edited by harmonyards
@rplst8 posted:

If you’re wondering if it has the problem, you don’t have to look, it has the exact same problem.

If you do open it, be careful of the black bunting on the engine. It’s very fragile.

Oh yeah, I know it is the same design as all the previous Legacy  K4's and would have the same issue. No problem there. This is a great thread showing workable solutions so that is dandy as well.

As far as the bunting, I was going to be tempted to remove it so I could just run the loco as an early 20's version and not necessarily the funeral train specfic one, but either way it doesn't matter that much I guess. I'm sure even though it was a BTO it just didn't sell well due to the funeral motif which I guess is understandable but hey it is an early K4 with extended piston rods and the smaller Atlantic tender ( I know not exactly right but as close as they will get with existing tooling).

Oh yeah, I know it is the same design as all the previous Legacy  K4's and would have the same issue. No problem there. This is a great thread showing workable solutions so that is dandy as well.

As far as the bunting, I was going to be tempted to remove it so I could just run the loco as an early 20's version and not necessarily the funeral train specfic one, but either way it doesn't matter that much I guess. I'm sure even though it was a BTO it just didn't sell well due to the funeral motif which I guess is understandable but hey it is an early K4 with extended piston rods and the smaller Atlantic tender ( I know not exactly right but as close as they will get with existing tooling).

Well about the bunting, was it not a common thing to have some fanfare for displaying newer engines, or special engines(regardless of being a funeral train) to show them off? If I had been able to just buy the engine itself, I would have, but part of the reason other than being a complete set would have been not having enough cash on hand.

I do know that some engines celebrating anniversaries, service milestones, or special events would have the bunting on. I guess part of the problem with the funeral train is the bunting being black though. You would more than likely see reds, blues, or even the stars and stripes bunting instead of black.

Well about the bunting, was it not a common thing to have some fanfare for displaying newer engines, or special engines(regardless of being a funeral train) to show them off? If I had been able to just buy the engine itself, I would have, but part of the reason other than being a complete set would have been not having enough cash on hand.

I do know that some engines celebrating anniversaries, service milestones, or special events would have the bunting on. I guess part of the problem with the funeral train is the bunting being black though. You would more than likely see reds, blues, or even the stars and stripes bunting instead of black.

When it shows up, I will post some pictures of the bunting if I can lol  It woul dlook really cool with stars and stripes on the bunting though I totally agree.

Thanks Pat, I'll shoot you an email here in a bit!  Like I say, I bought that Polar K4 used so have no idea how much run time the PO put on it.  At least all the legacy stuff works fine so this should be an easy fix.  Looks like the Bronze idler gear wheel is still in good shape. I'll find out how worn that little bushing in the chassis is I guess when I take it all the way apart.  Would be a good time to repaint it in a PRR scheme if it wasn't cold outside lol.

Also just to clarify, it is the Legacy version of the Polar K4 but I was running it in conventional format on my ZW.  The box is up in my attic so not sure what the SKU number is at the moment, but I'm sure both the conventional and Legacy versions suffer the same problem.

This thread is a great resource!

I'll find out how worn that little bushing in the chassis is I guess when I take it all the way apart.  Would be a good time to repaint it in a PRR scheme if it wasn't cold outside lol.



If you shine a light behind the middle driver you can see the bushing with the shaft in it. Moving the loco back and forth a bit with the gearbox locked, i.e with the motor still attached etc will show any obvious wear.

The shaft will do more rocking than rolling. On my 11328 the bushing on the engineers side actually started producing bronze shavings....maybe it was more brass than bronze, thus the wear. My engine had 1 hour of run time tops.

That looks a lot like the chassis I sent you that had failed.  It looks like there's some chunks out of the gear teeth on Dennis's K4, he's skating on the edge!

Correct, ….yours was completely missing the worm John, I did a before & after test ( yours was the original Guinea pig ) so we know the fix can save them,……I’d imagine there are some brutal ones out there that can’t be saved, but so far what’s come across my plate have all been saved,…..I would have no problems putting that chassis you sent me back in service……

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Correct, ….yours was completely missing the worm John, I did a before & after test ( yours was the original Guinea pig ) so we know the fix can save them,……I’d imagine there are some brutal ones out there that can’t be saved, but so far what’s come across my plate have all been saved,…..I would have no problems putting that chassis you sent me back in service……

Pat

Hmm.

Pat I think I have one in the junk parts box I changed out that came in for repair some time ago.  Might have to send you a pic to see if it can be saved to repair when one comes in.

The one you fixed for me ran great over the holidays.

Jim

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