Lionel Legacy Southern 2-10-4 1931760 Possible Damaged RCMC Board????

Not that this helps but I did the same thing to my legacy H10. Really sucks.

@Trainlover9943 posted:

Not that this helps but I did the same thing to my legacy H10. Really sucks.

So I'm guessing I'm out of luck for any possible fix here if that's the case.  Did you send yours to Lionel for a replacement?  Their parts site actually does not have my locomotive parts available, so looks like I have no choice but to send the whole thing in or just sell it for parts. 

@WyattK posted:

So I'm guessing I'm out of luck for any possible fix here if that's the case.  Did you send yours to Lionel for a replacement?  Their parts site actually does not have my locomotive parts available, so looks like I have no choice but to send the whole thing in or just sell it for parts.  I feel like throwing up.

I'm going to send mine out for repair. Mine is out of warranty

@Trainlover9943 posted:

I'm going to send mine out for repair. Mine is out of warranty

Would really hate to spend hundreds on repairs for this because I think it's out of warranty.  I guess I might just sell it for parts... wow.  You start the day feeling excited to run your layout and your only engine is destroyed by your own stupidity within a matter of 30 minutes.  Can't help but to look at the sky, shake your head and laugh in disbelief!

Don't lose hope yet!

The Board is about $120 or so,  with $10 for shipping.  Just because it is not listed on Lionel's site does not mean they don't have it.

Lionel Tech Service is open Monday to Noon Friday to speak with a Tech, trouble shoot and discuss what you might need.  If you call right at 9 AM when they open your wait is much less.

Since you said it is out of warranty, why not change the board out yourself.  Take plugs off the old board after you mark them numerically or take a few pics.  Replace each in the same place on the new board.

It really is not that hard to do.  Nothing much to loose.

And don't feel bad........most of us have been there too.

Dave

@Soo Line posted:

Don't lose hope yet!

The Board is about $120 or so,  with $10 for shipping.  Just because it is not listed on Lionel's site does not mean they don't have it.

Lionel Tech Service is open Monday to Noon Friday to speak with a Tech, trouble shoot and discuss what you might need.  If you call right at 9 AM when they open your wait is much less.

Since you said it is out of warranty, why not change the board out yourself.  Take plugs off the old board after you mark them numerically or take a few pics.  Replace each in the same place on the new board.

It really is not that hard to do.  Nothing much to loose.

And don't feel bad........most of us have been there too.

Dave

Ok, I'll give them a call tomorrow and see what we can work out.  They don't have any newer engine parts on their support site so I figured I was out of luck. Probably going to need a whole new smoke unit too.  Would rather just replace the whole unit instead of the motor just in case something shorted on it as well.

@RickO posted:

It's your call.. IMO. Your gonna eat hundreds selling it for parts.

Why not get in touch with one of the resident techs here on the forum and get an honest idea of the repair cost?

I'd try Alex M , gunrunnerjohn, or Bruk to name a few off the top of my head that deal with newer stuff.

Alex recently repaired a VL bigboy that shorted so bad it looked like the electronics was in a fire.

I originally got this engine with a big discount from the dealer, but yeah I'd still be selling for hundreds less than what I paid.  I'll try what Soon Line suggested and see if they have the parts in stock tomorrow via phone call.  I'm seeing if I send it in for repair, they wouldn't be able to turn it around for another 6 to 8 weeks also. 

You don't need a new smoke unit!  The motor is peanuts, and since you'll have a new RCMC, you should have no more blinking lights with a good motor.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

You don't need a new smoke unit!  The motor is peanuts, and since you'll have a new RCMC, you should have no more blinking lights with a good motor.

Do they normally send the new fan motors with the soldered wires/connectors, or will I need to do all of the soldering?  Not opposed to soldering, did it before on a broken capacitor on this same engine... just would prefer to not break anything else unnecessarily!  Thanks.

You have to do the soldering.

I had something similar happen years ago. I had gotten a digital camera that was a stretch for my budget at the time.  At some point in the year following it had somehow gotten a spec of dust inside the lens.  I lived with it at first because it’s a common problem and the photo software makes quick work of the shadow the dust will cast on the sensor.

We’ll I couldn’t just leave it be.  I didn’t want to have to edit every photo I took just to remove this dust shadow.  It’s really silly too, the software will even remember where the dust is and fix every photo automatically.  Anyway, I took the whole thing apart and was determined to fix it.  It took me like two weeks or more.  Those digital cameras have zillions of parts and teeny tiny screws.  But finally I got in there, blew the dust away with a blower bulb, and began reassembling it.  I got to the point where all I had left was some of the casing, and a ribbon cable for the USB connector board or something.  Before I finished, I wanted to test it.  So I turned it on, and everything worked great.  No shadow anymore, yay.

Well then I went to close ‘er up and finish.  I connected the last ribbon cable and like a big dummy forgot to take out the battery. While closing the little ribbon cable fastener WITH A METAL FLAT SCREWDRIVER cause I was too lazy to go get my little plastic tool, I slipped, and scored the circuit board and shorted something out, like a chump.

The camera shut off.  I cycled the power, but the LCD screen no longer worked. Drat.

A few years later the same camera came up on eBay for next to nothing, also broken.  The picture had the LCD powered on though so I took a chance.  I scavenged the other one for parts, and it was as good as new.

The point is, don’t sell it until you’ve exhausted all options.  You can probably get parts and fix it, or maybe one that fell off a shelf will show up cheap on the auction site.  Scavenge what you need and sell the rest, or keep it for spare parts. If you felt comfortable enough to troubleshoot it I’m sure you’ll get it working again even if it stings a little.  

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

You have to do the soldering.

Ok thanks.  So I was able to get a replacement RCMC board ordered today, but the rep on the phone said they'd need to check on the fan motor with the parts manager.  I was under the impression that most any modern o gauge fan motor would work as a replacement if it came out of a similar engine, or is that not correct?

@rplst8 posted:

I had something similar happen years ago. I had gotten a digital camera that was a stretch for my budget at the time.  At some point in the year following it had somehow gotten a spec of dust inside the lens.  I lived with it at first because it’s a common problem and the photo software makes quick work of the shadow the dust will cast on the sensor.

We’ll I couldn’t just leave it be.  I didn’t want to have to edit every photo I took just to remove this dust shadow.  It’s really silly too, the software will even remember where the dust is and fix every photo automatically.  Anyway, I took the whole thing apart and was determined to fix it.  It took me like two weeks or more.  Those digital cameras have zillions of parts and teeny tiny screws.  But finally I got in there, blew the dust away with a blower bulb, and began reassembling it.  I got to the point where all I had left was some of the casing, and a ribbon cable for the USB connector board or something.  Before I finished, I wanted to test it.  So I turned it on, and everything worked great.  No shadow anymore, yay.

Well then I went to close ‘er up and finish.  I connected the last ribbon cable and like a big dummy forgot to take out the battery. While closing the little ribbon cable fastener WITH A METAL FLAT SCREWDRIVER cause I was too lazy to go get my little plastic tool, I slipped, and scored the circuit board and shorted something out, like a chump.

The camera shut off.  I cycled the power, but the LCD screen no longer worked. Drat.

A few years later the same camera came up on eBay for next to nothing, also broken.  The picture had the LCD powered on though so I took a chance.  I scavenged the other one for parts, and it was as good as new.

The point is, don’t sell it until you’ve exhausted all options.  You can probably get parts and fix it, or maybe one that fell off a shelf will show up cheap on the auction site.  Scavenge what you need and sell the rest, or keep it for spare parts. If you felt comfortable enough to troubleshoot it I’m sure you’ll get it working again even if it stings a little.  

You and I seem to learn great lessons, but expensive ones! Haha, I'm taking your advice and attempting to find the parts I need.  I really don't want to give up on this engine - it's the coolest thing I own.

@WyattK posted:

Ok thanks.  So I was able to get a replacement RCMC board ordered today, but the rep on the phone said they'd need to check on the fan motor with the parts manager.  I was under the impression that most any modern o gauge fan motor would work as a replacement if it came out of a similar engine, or is that not correct?

It depends on the space available.  Some Lionel smoke units need the shorter fan motor.  Others will work with the full sized motor, in those I typically use the MTH motors.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

It depends on the space available.  Some Lionel smoke units need the shorter fan motor.  Others will work with the full sized motor, in those I typically use the MTH motors.

Well I managed to get the RCMC board replaced.... everything is hooked up correctly, but my railsounds are not functioning normally.  When I power on the track, the engine immediately makes startup sounds with me having to engage it.  However, this is the only sound it makes, along with idling.  The chuff, whistle, bell, brakes, etc. do not work.  Also, the elctrocoupler does not function and the headlight flickers occasionally.  I think I'm about done with this thing. 

@WyattK posted:

Well I managed to get the RCMC board replaced.... everything is hooked up correctly, but my railsounds are not functioning normally.  When I power on the track, the engine immediately makes startup sounds with me having to engage it.  However, this is the only sound it makes, along with idling.  The chuff, whistle, bell, brakes, etc. do not work.  Also, the elctrocoupler does not function and the headlight flickers occasionally.  I think I'm about done with this thing.

Sounds like a signal issue. Both with the antenna and the IR tether to the tender.

Sounds like your not getting TMCC/LEGACY signal to the radio board. Make sure the handrails are not touching the frame and that there are no pinched wires when you put the shell back on

@zhubl posted:

Sounds like your not getting TMCC/LEGACY signal to the radio board. Make sure the handrails are not touching the frame and that there are no pinched wires when you put the shell back on

Double checked for no pinched wires.  The engine responds to throttle and smoke on/off, as well as boost and brake.  It’s just the aforementioned commands still not working.  Is there something special that needs to be done for new boards after install?  Something isn’t right.

Whoops I might’ve jumped the wrong way, since you haven’t touched the tender I’m with Sid. check the drawbar and the IR tether that is on top of it then follow the wires from the locomotive IR LED back to the RCMC to make sure the plug is in good.

@WyattK posted:

Well I managed to get the RCMC board replaced.... everything is hooked up correctly, but my railsounds are not functioning normally.  When I power on the track, the engine immediately makes startup sounds with me having to engage it.  However, this is the only sound it makes, along with idling.  The chuff, whistle, bell, brakes, etc. do not work.  Also, the elctrocoupler does not function and the headlight flickers occasionally.  I think I'm about done with this thing.

You have a communication issue between the locomotive and tender.  The headlight flickering is an antenna issue as well.   If the engine runs under command control, it sounds like you have two issues.

@zhubl posted:

Whoops I might’ve jumped the wrong way, since you haven’t touched the tender I’m with Sid. check the drawbar and the IR tether that is on top of it then follow the wires from the locomotive IR LED back to the RCMC to make sure the plug is in good.

The connection from the tender was plugged into this slot on the shorted board.  I've had it plugged into the same slot here. Re-seated it and I've still got nothing.  I'm not sure what else to do at this point.  Everything else works aside from what I mentioned above. Is it possible that the tender could have shorted as well in some way?   Also, i noticed on the board beneath the rcmc, there is an empty slot.  I dont believe anything was ever plugged in there, but just curious as to what that's for.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

You have a communication issue between the locomotive and tender.  The headlight flickering is an antenna issue as well.   If the engine runs under command control, it sounds like you have two issues.

Is it possible that even with this board being the same part number as the previous one that it still is not compatible with the electronics of this locomotive/tender?

It's possible they sent you the wrong board.  OTOH, almost any RCMC should have at least linked with the tender, that is a common interface.

@WyattK posted:

The connection from the tender was plugged into this slot on the shorted board.  I've had it plugged into the same slot here. Re-seated it and I've still got nothing.  I'm not sure what else to do at this point.  Everything else works aside from what I mentioned above. Is it possible that the tender could have shorted as well in some way?   Also, i noticed on the board beneath the rcmc, there is an empty slot.  I dont believe anything was ever plugged in there, but just curious as to what that's for.

Actually disregard this..... the wires got pulled back farther from the board so I thought I remembered it going here.   I ended up searching for a rcmc diagram and found I was wrong.  That wire needs to be plugged into the soundboard slot towards the front of the board.  It's working now.  Dumb mistake, haha.  Thanks for the replies.  I'll see if I notice the headlight flickering again then go back to the drawing board.

I usually take a picture of any installation I'm not 100% sure of.  A quick snap and I know where all the cables go when I get the new board.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I usually take a picture of any installation I'm not 100% sure of.  A quick snap and I know where all the cables go when I get the new board.

I saw someone say that here and it slipped my mind before taking out the old board.  Ah well.. All is a learning experience.

So, everything is working correctly now?

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

So, everything is working correctly now?

Had to re-solder a capacitor that broke off the motor assembly - took my shaky hands a while... but yes.. the locomotive is back on the rails and everything seems to be working correctly.  Ran it about 10 times around the layout and no issues.  Thank you a ton for the assistance with this.

Glad to see it all got worked out.

Great to hear!