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I did it, I admit it. There, right off the top, get that out of the way.  Now, please help.  I have a Lionel, M1a, this is the TMCC version and I believe it was one that had the antenna issue. But that is not the problem.  Today it is the throttle control, not sounds.  Here is the story, had this engine a while and it made only idling sounds while running and sitting still. No shut down, blowoff, tower chatter, no whistle, no bell, no rear coupler, not sure of smoke. But it did have full throttle control. Did the reset, nothing changed.  I did reset on all the boards and plugs as suggested on a number of other threads to remove oxidation. Now, what was working does not, and what was working now does. I have no throttle, in conventional or TMCC. The only thing different is it makes one chuff at startup, but the wheels do not turn. The only thing that could be not set right, is the orange wire separated from the molex plug as I was doing this. I have it back in place, and checked multiple times that it is in place.  Any other suggestions? thanks Ed

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I thought the same, but the engine will move if I stick my finger and move the flywheel. There are fake brake shoes, I thought those were binding too so I removed all 6. I even unclipped all the wires from the zip ties to free the area. I did notice that the firebox LED do not light. They usually glow as the engine runs.  I think it is electrical, and I separated something. There are 5 Leds on a board inside the cab. They do not flicker.

  Do what George (GGG) told you to do to check the motor first.  Is the flywheel tight on the motor shaft?  If it is not, secure it and try to power up.  Does your flywheel look like this?  If the magnet ring is broken off (very common)  the flywheel  you will also have what you have.       If all those things are in place, let us know and the Odyssey speed sensor will have to be tested and the wiring back to the DCDS.            

Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry

I solved the railsounds issue by moving from the engine to the tender. The PCB board in the tender is the issue, if I wiggle it, the railsounds cut on and off. Does that board have anything to do with power to the motor. I think it is a power issue because if I have power to the engine all the railsounds work. If I turn the flywheel with my finger the entire engine and tender moves forward, and the railsounds chuff if I go about 6 10 inches, very slowly.  It is like the motor is not getting power.

The engine and tender have there own power source from the track and can work independently for basics.  The Command board is in the engine, and it transfers serial data to the tender via the drawbar IR sensor.

 

You can have loose boards in the tender.  So pull them off one at a time and reseat them.

 

Since the R2LC can transmit signals to the tender the draw bar is fine, but as far as the motion of the engine that is all confined to the engine.  The R2LC sends signals to the DCDS for motor control, and the DCDS converts the AC power to DC and drives the motor. 

 

You can swap R2LC to find out if the motor signals from it are the issue, you than have to swap the DCDS to see if that is the issue, then test motor, than test the harness from the DCDS to the mother board and power source.

 

You can have a broken wire under the insulation of the 6 pin molex as an example.

 

Tender has nothing to do with engine functions.  That is self contained in the engine just without sounds.   G 

I have swapped the R2LC and tested both ways in a K-line K-4. So that board is good.  There is a brown and gray wire that goes from the poles to a black plug. Those are the power for the motor. There is a green red and one other color, that goes to the top of the motor and controls the chuff.  Can I put power to the motor directly and bypass the boards? 

  The chuff is controlled by ground pull up from the cherry switch.  The wires on the plug on top of the motor are for your Odyssey speed sensor.  Your motor wires if you trace them go to the 6 pin Molex plug located in the canter end of the DCDS.  One last time,----is your flywheel ring intact?  If so, is your flywheel tight on the motor shaft?  Have you checked for a broken wire on the 6 pin Molex like George stated?  Nothing is wrong with your R2LC and the DCDS is a strong component, they do go but that is not what is showing.  Is it possible you can answer my questions so we can help you??

 

BTW, the other color should be yellow.

Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry

Correct on the flicker.  It gets 5V and ground from the 10 pin plug.  Take your continuity meter and go from the grounds on the 10 pin to chassis ground and see if you get continuity.  Looking at the 10 pin from the side going from L-R pins 4 and 8 are ground.  Pins 3-7-9 are +5VDC.  Now check the 3 pin plug that is next to the 10 pin.  The pin closest to the 10 pin is your +5VDC input.  Check to see if you have 5VDC at that point.  If you do not have +5VDC at that point, check for +5VDC at pins 19 and 20 on the R2LC.  Let us know.  If you do not see +5VDC some engines used an external reg to put +5VDC. 

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