Bought this engine new some 10-15 years ago and never opened box. This Xmas 2019 decided to operate. This is aTMCC loco which won't program. When placing on track, the railsounds come on and also the cab light. Other than that, nothing. Have tried prog/run and nothing changes. Have switched transformers from old ZW to newer ZW with bricks. With the old ZW, the whistle will blow but still just sits with cab light on and railsounds. Won't program and won't run in conv mode. Just sits. Lionel doesn't respond to emails but I don't find that surprising. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
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When you are trying it in conventional mode, are you unplugging the TMCC base that yuou were using when trying to program it?
If it "sees" the TMCC signal, it won't respond to conventional throttle. (which of course assumes it's working properly, which it may not be based on the fact that you are also having problems programming it)
Before you tried to reprogram it, did you just try to address it as Engine 1, which would have been the factory default in most cases?
-Dave
Thanks Dave - Yes I did unplug the TMCC / Legacy base and I did try nos. 1 and 99 in addition to the number I wanted to use. It just won't respond as it should in program mode-ie. silent and waiting to receive a signal from the set button. I guess this will have to go to Lionel S/S for investigation. I have lots of TMCC/Legacy engines and have never before encountered this issue. Thanks for your reply-Billyboy
A likely suspect is either the antenna is disconnected or the R2LC is loose in the connector.
I have this same Shay. The R2LC came loose a while back and it responded in the same way.
Sitting for this length of time. I would open the engine and carefully unplug each board and then re-seat. I bet this will solve the issue.
Dave G
I bought this same loco when it first came out many years ago (around 1999). Right out of the box had similar issues, so back to Lionel it went while still under warranty. From what I understand, its a pretty challenging locomotive to take apart.
It can be.
Let me know if any of you need help removing the cab. I can walk you through what I did to gain access to the boards.
Dave G.
Thanks to all for your help. Does appear to be a daunting task to take apart but not insurmountable . Dave G- Thanks for your offer to walk thru the steps to gain access to the boards. I'll give it a shot and see what happens-nothing to lose. Still await Lionel to respond to three emails. Glad I didn't hold my breath
Thanks again Billyboy
Sounds good.
Dave G.
@DaveGG posted:I have this same Shay. The R2LC came loose a while back and it responded in the same way.
Sitting for this length of time. I would open the engine and carefully unplug each board and then re-seat. I bet this will solve the issue.
Dave G
I am having same problem with my Lionel Shay. I opened the tender and reset the boards. Are there any boards in the engine? If so how do I open the engine?
Denny Todd
Las Vegas
Yes, the R2LC is in the locomotive.
Thank you John,
Can you tell me how to open up the locomotive to get to the R2LC?
As I recall, there are four screws, the biggest problem I had was the shell is very tight, and you have to gently "coax" it off after removing the screws. It's also very tight in there, so you have to watch the wire dressing when assembling it so you don't pinch wires and kill something.
Like John said, it is quite easy to remove the boiler from the frame, I think this model has only 3 screws under the frame to remove to lift the body. The 3 cylinder engine remains connected to the boiler. Be careful has headlight wires will be attached and the drive shafts will separate from the frame.
Chuck is probably right, I've only taken two of these apart, and it's been a while. I know the boiler shell was a bit of a tussle to get off, it was on pretty right after removing the screws. I upgraded one with the ERR Cruise Commander M, that turned out to be a bigger PITA than I imagined, so I haven't been eager to open another one.
I picked up one of these for a friend and was going to put a Cruise M in it as a favor but that silly 1/16” of added length made me think twice. I didn’t want to wreck it for him. Given the low gearing it hardly needs cruise anyway. Hats off to you John for fitting that board in there.
Pete
Trust me Pete, it was a Royal PITA! Dressing all the wires was a PITA after I got the board in there, I won't be doing any more of these! I was dreaming about putting the Super-Chuffer in there as well, but that simply wasn't happening, there's no place for even that small a board!
I purchased mine when they first came out.
It never ran slow and smooth.
I finally sent it to Mike Reagan who owned TrainAmerica Studios, and Mike installed his version of cruise control.
He transformed the Shay into the best loco I have, and I have many new Legacy locos, and none of them run as slow as the Shay, even at “roll” speed.
I don’t know if it was a tight fit or not, and I don’t know which of his boards he used. And, I don’t know if they are still available. If you can find a small TAS cruise board, it is worth it to buy it and try it out in this Lionel Shay model.
@Jeff2035 posted:I purchased mine when they first came out.
It never ran slow and smooth.
I finally sent it to Mike Reagan who owned TrainAmerica Studios, and Mike installed his version of cruise control.
He transformed the Shay into the best loco I have, and I have many new Legacy locos, and none of them run as slow as the Shay, even at “roll” speed.
I don’t know if it was a tight fit or not, and I don’t know which of his boards he used. And, I don’t know if they are still available. If you can find a small TAS cruise board, it is worth it to buy it and try it out in this Lionel Shay model.
Interesting. That would be an EOB Drop In. It was designed to replaced the non cruise DCDR and is the same size unlike the ERR Cruise M which is slightly longer. The only difference is it requires a tach strip on the motor flywheel and detector. Good to know if I ever run into another one of these engines.
Pete