Lionel Visionline Big Boy 6-11436 how to remove blow down smoke unit from frame?

For stripped screws in plastic, I fill the hole with JB-Weld, drill it out, and start over with the screws.  Longer screws don't always work out that well.

GUNRUNNERJOHN... thanks for the heads up on JB weld I assume you have a tap that small?  or do you let the screw create its own threads while being screwed into drilled out hole?

dumbbell me the fan motor is fine it was the heating element as I looked in owners manual and then watched the cab blinks sometimes it pays to read first and post second!!!!!

next question I have a Hakko 936 soldering station was at 600 degrees and the solder for pcb and smoke element never phased it tried at 800 and said nuts to this and left soldered legs from old element and soldered the new element to it solder melted at the original 600 setting poof.

so did china use a cement based solder never to be removed again on these smoke unit connections?

while I had this apart I went to auto zone and bought some 1\4" OD x 1\8" ID vacuum hose and replaced the clear plastic hose wow what a difference I can see the blow down effect very well now.

I wonder what the difference is from the clear tubing used as built verses the automotive vacuum hose as I used this same type of vacuum hose to replace the steam cylinder clear plastic hose and it to was a step up in the cylinder smoke effect on the S-3.

thanks GUNRUNNERJOHN for responding to the original post.

I let the screw make it's threads in the JB-Weld, as long as the hole you drill is the correct size, that works well.

The solder used on the smoke units is a higher temperature alloy, but I haven't had any issue melting it at 800F.  One thing I'd check, is your iron calibrated?  I regularly check mine, it's easy to enter calibration instead of temperature setting and screw it up.  I finally had to "mod" my station so that didn't happen.

I never considered replacing the hose, but once I positioned the thermistor like the whistle smoke unit, the blowdown works fine.

GRJ,

My Hakko (same as yours, FX888-D I think it is) was almost 100 deg F off when I checked it with the calibration tool (I got the cheaper deg C calib. tool)? Does that sound feasible to be that far off?

It's also possible I could have screwed it up at some point, as you describe, without realizing it? I was just surprised (and also a bit puzzled) it was that far off. 

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I let the screw make it's threads in the JB-Weld, as long as the hole you drill is the correct size, that works well.

The solder used on the smoke units is a higher temperature alloy, but I haven't had any issue melting it at 800F.  One thing I'd check, is your iron calibrated?  I regularly check mine, it's easy to enter calibration instead of temperature setting and screw it up.  I finally had to "mod" my station so that didn't happen.

I never considered replacing the hose, but once I positioned the thermistor like the whistle smoke unit, the blowdown works fine.

 

Don't tell me Lionel has gone with lead free solder?  Ahhh what a pain.

I never considered replacing the hose, but once I positioned the thermistor like the whistle smoke unit,the blowdown works fine 

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GUNRUNNERJOHN, I measured the resistors height and added 1/8" it did go further into smoke wicking.

Maybe that also helped as I remember you staying you had lowered yours. 

the calibration tool how do you use it to test heat setting? 

Here's the manual for the Hakko calibration tool.

Multi-Lingual, the English version is on the last page.

rtr12 posted:

GRJ,

My Hakko (same as yours, FX888-D I think it is) was almost 100 deg F off when I checked it with the calibration tool (I got the cheaper deg C calib. tool)? Does that sound feasible to be that far off?

It's also possible I could have screwed it up at some point, as you describe, without realizing it? I was just surprised (and also a bit puzzled) it was that far off. 

That's how mine kept getting off.  I think they drift as things age as well, so occasionally I check the calibration.

StPaul posted:

the calibration tool how do you use it to test heat setting?

You basically just press the ON button and put the hot iron on the pad, pretty easy.  Wait until the temperature stops changing and that's your tip temperature.  The cal procedure once you know the temperature is the FX888-D User Manual.

I'd be careful using hose from Autozone.  As surprising as it sounds, many types of vacuum hose doesn't take well to oil and will get all gooey (Seen it happen when vacuum hose was used for the PCV valve.).

SINCLAIR, S-3 hose replaced 2 years ago and no issues with mega steam or Lionel smoke fluid.

Motor oil is a different ball game.

Thanks, GRJ.

I will be checking it more often for a while to see if it starts getting off calibration again. I think I'll also mark it like you have, hopefully that will help eliminate me as the cause of calibration errors.

Gunrunnerjohn, Is it any particular JB weld product you used to fill the hole with ?

I typically use JB-Kwik as I'm always in a hurry to do the repair.   However, if you don't mind leaving it overnight, use JB Weld.

John ,You mentioned JB-Kwik for a faster repair & you also said that if you don't mind leaving it overnight ,that to use JB Weld ,any particular one ?     

Thanks John ,i have some of that ,i wasn't sure if made any difference which one to use ,i don't have any screw problems right now ,but it is good to know what i can use .