Lionel X31a revisited

Actually that is pretty darned nice! How did you do that in order to "correct" that odd-ball brown color on the original car?

Dear Hot Water, I must admit it was a bit of trial and error, which model railroading is all about. My friend Mike Rahilly showed me a weathering technique to use a color, in this case, floquil pollys special oxide red to litterly paint over the existing color in the form of a wash. I did apply the oxide red full strength on the roof and ends, where lettering was not present. I them used a exacto knife and shaved flakes of orange pastels liberally on the body when the paint was 95% dry as the PRR freight color tended to be a orange tint when really weathered as this is the effect I wanted this model to achieve. I then sprayed the car with testors dull cote to pretty much get rid of most of the orange pastel,but just enough to give me the desired effect. After the dull cote was also about 95% dry, I applied the blank pastels and rust to the areas to "bring out" the rivet/ door and roof details. I did not have to respray the dullcote and it has "teeth" and captures the black and rust without it coming off while handling. I use this method many times and have absolutely no problems.I finish things off by a liberal brushing with a makeup brush-courtesy of my wife Patty- and it seems to blend every thing together and the pastels find the invisible crevices the dullcote puts on the surface. 

It was fun on a car I was about to sell to some 3 railer and I am glad I did not.

                                                                                John

The white PRR lettering shouldn’t get fully covered.

Here is another example from stock dark brown to an oxidized orange shade.

Dear SIRT, Thank you for the critique, you actually are the one that made me think about this car by doing the NP car. How was your technique to litterly repaint the car and maintain the lettering?? BTW, I have a photo of a X29 that due to the deferred maintenance the freight car color was bleeding thru the lettering, so I guess anything, especially PRR, is possible. Also, when the heck are you going to lose the lobster claws and 3rd rail,and come over to the dark side !!!!! Regards, John

Ah, john, the dark side has become unjustifiably pricey these days. Just not worth doing another layout along with all the costly conversions from 3R.

Retail in this hobby has escalated past a reasonable limit.

As for the car, I prefer powders in many cases. Easy to control and applies well over the lettering too.

Upper areas of a box car generally are more affected by the suns UV and fades faster.

Mid to lower sides are often shaded by structures and other freight cars.

More grime down there too.

So the goal is to apply the faded color heavier near the top.

A quick coat of clear satin Krylon followed by dull cote will maintain the powder color.

A mist of flat black spray along the lower area is a quick way to show overall contrast.

Strait Dullcote eats powders, reducing the color and also tends to shrink decals.

Using a Mr. Clean magic eraser will allow logo and letter fading in under a few minutes.

Another way is to blast the shell using compressed air and baking soda into a cardboard box. Badger Mini blasters are available on the net.

Based on the modeling time frame you stated, your car sports the look.

I think your car would even stand out more with a lighter logo & lettering.

If you desire to experiment further, just take a fine brush with some mineral spirits and go over some of the white areas to achieve the contrast.

Paints, especially oils, have their purpose for certain things but can present a more bold appearance unless thinned out a bit.

These cars look great mixed in with the rest. I’m glad to have one.

It’s already getting a lot of run time along with the wagon top as well.

Just waiting on that Weaver MILW H. Rib now.

Thanks,

Steve

Dear Steve, Thank you for your discussing/sharing your weathering methods with this thread and I hope this discussion gives courage to those modelers who would like to weather there models but are afraid of failure.

You are very talented as I have watched your work over the years on this forum and I encourage others to search out your past projects.

On the subject of changing scales, At my last Strasburg show I saw I/M car kits for sale at $12. each, Weaver RS-3's UNDEC for $75.00 each, Atlas trainman cars at $20.00 each, Atlas RS-3s for $125.00. Many older cars were $5-8 each. These prices are actually cheeper than what my HO club members are paying . Go figure!!

Today is the best time to be in O Scale.

                        Once again, Thanks for your input, John P.Dunn Sr.

Thanks John.

After completing my 7^th layout, I’m at a point in my life to sit back and enjoy.

I’m 99% done collecting trains which started in 1963.

I’m hooked strictly on the MTH DCS System allowing me to run 7 trains on my layout with 2 main lines at the same time.

It doesn’t get much better than that!

So I guess I’ll always be an H.O.er stuck in a 3 rail world.

Happy Railroading!

John,

I Think Steve is right, the letters need to stand out a little more. The weathering job to me is a little over done. But it is a vast improvement over what Lionel painted these cars.   

John

Morning Sun PRR freight and passenger color books show examples of white lettering being covered with "red", especially the circle keystone box cars.

 Check Volume 2 page 48 and Volume 3 page 62