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Greetings, I finally got around to replacing the traction tires on My Lionmaster Pennsy T1  Put it on the tracks, and tried programming it.  Finally got the "Rail" sounds working.  Then to no avail, no matter what I tried it pretty much has one speed, wide open. My first thought is that I'm not programming it in the proper way.   After doing a search I saw one response that it is the TMCC engines themselves when using TMCC control.  Twenty years ago when I got a Cab1 setup I remember being amazed at how slow I could run it as opposed to conventional.  I tried setting my cab2 to both cab1 and tmcc neither setting helped. I was using the T1 while relaying track last year under conventional  control and it was fine except for traction tires.  It'll be a shame if I truly can't control the speed with my Cab2 remote.  While running it conventionally it randomly does some of the rail sounds if I remember correctly.

Signed,

Despondent

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A couple of things to try.

Press the “Set” button and the headlight should blink.  Then press it again. That should reset the stall speed.

If that doesn’t work, maybe the ring magnet broke or fell off the flywheel.  That is what makes the Odyssey speed control work. When it’s missing the engine speed will act weirdly.

Thanks for everyone’s help. I have no idea what the ring magnet is but I’ll look into it. The closest shop/store is over an hour from here in Norfolk Va. The place is called Dales. If I have to I’ll call them to see if they can work on it. At least now I know it should work with the Cab2.
OBX

Are you comfortable working on the engine yourself?

The magnet ring is on the flywheel on the motor. It's part of the sensor system that allows Odyssey/Legacy, or whatever system your engine has to monitor the speed of the motor. Without being able to monitor the motor's actual speed, the system thinks it needs to go faster. That's why the loco takes off and rockets down the track.

The fix can be to:

-repair/replace the magnet ring somehow (if indeed it is bad),

-or position/realign the sensor that looks at the magnet ring (if it is out of position)

-or maybe some internal plugs need to be unplugged and plugged back in to eliminate micro corrosion.

-or maybe install a Cruise Commander M from electric railroad.

If you are not comfortable working on it, by all means DON'T. There is nothing quite like trying to fix something that someone else took apart, put back together wrong and now it is FUBAR.

Last edited by RoyBoy
@N&W 1218 posted:

Is this the first time you’ve hooked up your CAB-2? Do you have other engines that run with your CAB-2? Just trying to isolate the problem to your engine or command set up. Tell us more. 👍🏻

It’s been hooked up and I recently programmed my K-line Hudson with it. Speaking of. I seem to remember the Hudson running smoother 20 years ago than it does now and it seems to have lost pulling power, or I’m just using heavy rolling stock as a consist.
OBX

Greetings, I’ve talked with a service rep at nearest place. He told me that Lionel doesn’t really have parts for engines over a few years old even though I had just told him Lionel site showed they had the part. He then-quoted me $125 to $175 to do the work. I immediately placed an order for two of the magnets. My question is it a fair price for the magnet replacement. I’ve researched this site. If I can find the Frank Timkco puller and pull the flywheel myself, will I actually need a press to safely press the flywheel back on. I can’t really find any info on what’s involved for the whole process. I’m sure to do it correctly I’d have to pull the whole motor as to leaving it in place and tapping the flywheel back on with a small brass hammer.  Mechanics background on real life stuff. Not so much toys. I’d hate to spend a third of the price of the loco to replace a $1.50 magnet. Should I just pay the nice man? Or just do it myself is the question. I can see where I’ll probably use a puller in the future for other issues, therefore a press also. Dag nab it. I didn’t want to set up a tiny engine repair shop🤪

@obxtrainman posted:

Greetings, I’ve talked with a service rep at nearest place. He told me that Lionel doesn’t really have parts for engines over a few years old even though I had just told him Lionel site showed they had the part. He then-quoted me $125 to $175 to do the work. I immediately placed an order for two of the magnets. My question is it a fair price for the magnet replacement. I’ve researched this site. If I can find the Frank Timkco puller and pull the flywheel myself, will I actually need a press to safely press the flywheel back on. I can’t really find any info on what’s involved for the whole process. I’m sure to do it correctly I’d have to pull the whole motor as to leaving it in place and tapping the flywheel back on with a small brass hammer.  Mechanics background on real life stuff. Not so much toys. I’d hate to spend a third of the price of the loco to replace a $1.50 magnet. Should I just pay the nice man? Or just do it myself is the question. I can see where I’ll probably use a puller in the future for other issues, therefore a press also. Dag nab it. I didn’t want to set up a tiny engine repair shop🤪

Holy cow!  That's a major ripoff, why not just buy a new locomotive?  It's an easy job, that's highway robbery!

If you want to do it the easy way, order the fix-it flywheel and the magnet.  Then you can leave the motor in place and just pull the flywheel from the top.  The fix-it flywheel has set screws and you don't need to press it on, hence no motor removal.

 

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Thank you John. I figured it was something to that extent. I’m not normally cheap. This would have involved two 3 hr round trips into no man’s land around Norfolk. I wouldn’t feel safe without protection. The magnet I ordered from Lionel is probably wrong for the method you just informed me of might be wrong but it was low cost. I might be able to cancel the order. Thanks, your knowledge reminds me of Don Guyer.
obx

Greetings everyone,

I received magents today I should get the Fix-it flywheel early next week. I also started the process of getting a Timko Puller. Hopefully in a week or two. I’m anxious to see my most favorite Locomotive in action again🤗 I hope everyone are enjoying their layout as much as I am. Have a nice weekend everyone.

obx

When you get the fix-it flywheel and are installing the magnet, there's a "trick".  You'll find the lip that the magnet sets over isn't a close fit, there's some "slop" between the ring and the flywheel.  When I glue them on, I use some cardboard spacers to center the ring for the glue job, then remove them when the glue sets.

You apply the glue to the flat surface under the magnet ring, and make SURE the dimples on the ring are on the glue side, the plain side of the magnet ring faces the sensor.

I'm currently using Loctite 380 Black Max for the job, it's never failed me.

I've also used E6000 adhesive, that works fine as well.

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When you get the fix-it flywheel and are installing the magnet, there's a "trick".  You'll find the lip that the magnet sets over isn't a close fit, there's some "slop" between the ring and the flywheel.  When I glue them on, I use some cardboard spacers to center the ring for the glue job, then remove them when the glue sets.

You apply the glue to the flat surface under the magnet ring, and make SURE the dimples on the ring are on the glue side, the plain side of the magnet ring faces the sensor.

I'm currently using Loctite 380 Black Max for the job, it's never failed me.

I've also used E6000 adhesive, that works fine as well.

I just got e everything I needed. And sure as heck, there is a huge difference in the fix it flywheel circumference where magnet is placed and the original. You also answered my question before asking about glue. Thank you John, you’re a wealth of information. Is there only one set screw with fix it flywheel?



OBX

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@obxtrainman posted:

imageHaha, you just don't know my luck. I believe they call it luck of the Irish. I’m mostly Irish🤪. After looking at the invoice closely.  Screw is singular. Maybe they changed to only one screw to save millions of $ in the process. 😜 The white stuff on the flywheel is super glue and finger tip.

You’ll wanna check how the flywheel spins in your hand with only one set screw…if you see too much wobble, you’ll need the second screw to true things up,….sometimes you can get away with one set screw, sometimes you can’t……the purpose of the second screw is for setting it to spin true….too far out of alignment, and the magnet could bang into the sensor, or get too far away for a proper reading…..again, you can observe this simply by spinning it by hand and watching for the flywheel and magnet to run as true as can be….

Pat

@Richie C. posted:

Following along - is it good practice to use a threadlocking compound on the set screw ?

I don’t put any thread locker or adhesives on any set screw or the shaft for the flywheel,….it could easily turn into a wreck trying to remove a locked up fastener, or a flywheel stuck to the shaft needlessly……if it ever requires servicing in the future, locking compounds will become a hindrance, not a help,…..

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

You’ll wanna check how the flywheel spins in your hand with only one set screw…if you see too much wobble, you’ll need the second screw to true things up,….sometimes you can get away with one set screw, sometimes you can’t…

I just slipped my Fix-It flywheel on a couple of motors, it's a friction fit, so I don't see any issue if his is the same with a single screw.

Thank for all of the reply’s. First off, there’s no room to get the flywheel wheel exactly the distance above the sensor where it was. At the exact height above the sensor the set screw is riding at the top or above the shaft. The magnet is riding  on top of the sensor without friction where it is now. All I can do is give the glue it’s proper cure time and see what happens tomorrow on the tracks.
OBX

@obxtrainman posted:

Thank for all of the reply’s. First off, there’s no room to get the flywheel wheel exactly the distance above the sensor where it was. At the exact height above the sensor the set screw is riding at the top or above the shaft. The magnet is riding  on top of the sensor without friction where it is now. All I can do is give the glue it’s proper cure time and see what happens tomorrow on the tracks.
OBX

I have to wonder if the motor is damaged by pushing the shaft in and moving the commutator.  I've never had to do that with those.  I also have the rings and I can take the flywheel off, glue the ring, and press it back on.

I finally tried it on the tracks. Now instead of racing around full speed it barely moves. It’s also stopped working conventionally. I brought it back downstairs. Without just setting on a piece of track manipulating it in various ways the lights will come on and a slight movement will happen. I’ve tried changing heights if the flywheel and still really nothing. I also noticed the ground strip on the front truck isn’t quite touching the axle. I wouldn’t think that should matter.  

Are you SURE the flywheel magnet ring is the proper spacing from the sensor?  It should be around 1mm above it. Are you sure you put the ring on the proper orientation?  You should NOT see the dimples in the surface, they should be under the glued side.

The ground strip should be fixed, but that's not what your issue is.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

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