Liquid Rosin Flux

The one I have is GC Electronics Liquid Solder-Flux; part no. 10-4202.  Purchased from an electronic parts outlet.

Charlie

I keep both liquid and paste rosin flux on hand.

Neither gets used very much. I use flux core solder.

I prefer the rosin core solder from Radio Shack.

The only reason you woud really need liquid flux is if you are doing surface mount component soldering. Regular paste flux in the can is all you need.

Rob

I get it from fastracks at handlaidtrack.com

I was told that flux core (rosin) solder was no longer available, having been regulated out of the hands of the general public by the government. I would love to be able to get some.

J

You can still buy 60/40 Rosin core solder in many places, ebay is a good source.

Between the model railroad wiring work I have done over the years and the TV and CB radio repairs I did back in another life, I have probably made over 20,000 solder connections. I never - ever - used a separate paste flux on any of those 20,000 solder joints.

60/40 rosin core solder - which is still readily available - is all you need.

Radio Shack carries rosin core solder.

Larry

Rosin core solder is all I have used on all of my solder joints and for feeders ect.  Haven't had any problems yet....years later.

Thanks to all who replied.

I will try the liquid flux Charlie recommended and also some of the paste flux.  

I do use the Radio Shack rosin core solder but I am working in a tight space, the space between plastic ties, and I thought that separate flux would speed the process and avoid melting the plastic ties.  

I do use a very good heat sink.

Again, thanks to all.

Ed

R you are trying to solder to SS? We had problems at the club soldering to the outside rails on Gargraves  track, cutting with sand paper, or rotary sand disc, didn't help either, as you imbed the material that you are trying to remove on the paper or wheel.

I called and talked with the Gargraves Tech/shop folks, and they put me on Oatey's #11 liquid solder flux.The guy told me that was all they used in building their track and switches, or anything else they solder on, and also Rosin Core Solder. It's all a matter of metallurgy.

Be aware to follow all of their (Oatey's) directions, and use an acid neutralizer when finished soldering.

After getting Oatey's and following the "Old Proverbial directions on the heel", we had good luck from then on..................................Brandy

Ed, if you are soldering to track, I use paste flux on the web as it etches the metal and holds the solder much quicker, which is what you want to avoid melting the plastic.

While I use varying thicknesses of all sorts of rosin core solder, it is exceedingly rare that I do not also use a small application of Ruby Flux which seems to work well for almost every metal surface that I have occasion to solder to over the past decade or 2. As a result I have also been able to make good use of the smallest diameter solder that I have had opportunity to acquire letting me make tidier joints with my small torch.

SanteFeFan - Would like to ask you a few questions on the 990 / 991. I sent an email to you profile address. If you point me in the right direction it would be appreciated

Rosin core is for electronics.  If you are soldering stainless,or even brass, a good acid flux works wonders.  Pretty sure the Ruby is acid.  Don't know about Oatey's 11, but I can tell you  the best flux I ever used was Oatey's H2O, and I can no longer find it.  It was acid with powdered solder in it, and worked on dirty brass!

I tin the rail and the feed wire separetly.  With plastic ties I want to get in and out fast so I use a Weller 250w gun with a good clean tip.  A little rosin flux on the web speeds the process of tinning the rail.  I don't use acid flux when soldering wire.

Ed Rappe

Zinc Chloride - 30-45%

Which is acidic in water?

It can be; Lewis acid.....