Looking for someone that builds nice bridges that are between 5 and 6 feet long

Bridgeboss? Hope I got the name right.

Rod

Give "East Coast Customs" a call. They make amazing bridges.

Donald

I agree with Donald above.  A couple of friends have these bridges and they are very sturdy for lift-out use.

https://www.trainlayouts.com/p...rren-Truss-Bridges-3

If you want a well-built, solid bridge that doesn't look like a toy, East Coast Customs / Custom Model Railroads is the company to call.  They do beautiful work.  See below.  I believe they are an advertiser here as well.

I cannot recommend them highly enough.

George

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I did check out the East Coast Customs and they could do what was wanted but the price is out of budget range.  

Back to the drawing board.

Don

Now, before you look at the photo below and say No, I just wanted to point out this bridge (hinged on one end) construction method that you can make as basic or as pretty as you would like. It's a 1X4 with some weathered metal bridges/GG track screwed to it. It is durable and it is as cheap or nice as you care to make it.

This allows you to use any fancy or plain bridge superstructures you find at good prices to dress it up, but it's still a 1X4. Solid, inexpensive.

More detailing could be added below the modeled bridge deck to hide the wood; I plan to, but we'll see.

This spans 3+ feet over a layout walkway.

How realistic does it need to be? This can be built for under $20.00.

IS building it yourself out of the question?

Don

Don

Decide  on Acrylic (no need to paint) or draftboard like MDF; metal cant cut it.

Divide the bridge four parts no more than 18.5" long and 11" high.  Then you need  two sides a floor and maybe a top for each of the four parts. Send me a rough drawing of what you want, I'll send you a 3D drawing back to review and modify; once ok I can laser cut for you.

These inexpensive bridges can hold 50 lbs in a 5' to 7' 6"span with no readily discernible deflection and are quick and easy to build.  Light weight and very strong.

Revision to satisfy a bold font critical denial.  Upon testing there was approximately a 1/16" deflection.

The core of the 7' beams have a laminated stack of sister joists.  Bottom line is that if you need a long bridge to free span a good sized void one would be hard pressed to get something like for anywhere near the  minimal time and dollar cost involved.

Front bridge  60"All 4 bridges 7'6"

George G3750- I like your bridge, but what makes it stand out is the excellent setting you have created for it. Can you post more pictures, and some tips of how you made such an awesome scene? Thanks, JohnA

Precision Board is a good way to go, it can be cut like wood, scribed, shaped any way you want it and it is strong.

hold 50 lbs in a 7' spam with no deflection..... that's structurally impossible though highly hyperbola.

Trainworx in Dallas,

@John A posted:

George G3750- I like your bridge, but what makes it stand out is the excellent setting you have created for it. Can you post more pictures, and some tips of how you made such an awesome scene? Thanks, JohnA

Thank you for your kind words, but that is a photo from Panhandle 1.  Dare I say it, the setting of the bridge in Panhandle 2 is much, much better.  Please shoot me an e-mail (in my profile) and check out the "PRR Panhandle 2.0" thread in the Photo sub-forum.

George

@AlanRail posted:

hold 50 lbs in a 7' spam with no deflection..... that's structurally impossible though highly hyperbola.

Well Alan, the main span of my bridge (7') from East Coast Enterprises, has rigid aluminum bars embedded within it.  And within the weight limits of O gauge trains displays zero deflection.  50 lbs?  I've never tested that, but for any practical purposes, it nicely fits the bill.

George

Alan, I stand corrected.  If I  dusted off my still good analog dial indicator from my racing days I am sure I could find a nudge of the needle as I place a heavy weight in the middle.

Pause....I just went to the Cherry Valley bridges and placed an 8' level across one of the long bridges.  One could immediately see that the  bridges were engineered with a longitudinal  crown.  Application of  weight reduced the thin gap at each end but failed to have contact on either end of the level.

What is not that apparent is that there is a stack of sister beams laminated internally to make it redundantly  strong.  I was not concerned with a live load on the bridge but of someone (me) falling/bumping/leaning against the bridges causing major damage.

Body contact with these bridges may cause epidermal damage but no effect on train schedules.

I saw this action at the Philadelphia Zoo.

If (when) I got the money, I wanted Silk City Bridges to build my double track 2 rail long span for me. I think it's like 7' across? I didn't have the spare cash so I built a quick bridge to span it for now. I'm happy with the results for a quick and dirty job. I just think the bridge built by them would be a main attraction and well worth the extra money. I spent the money on another hobby of mine.

By the time I get the extra money, they might stop selling them. I'm on a fixed income and have to make due where I can. My wants don't match my budget. Then there's the wants of our grandson who keeps me engaged in trains. I'm always asked how much money I have in toy trains. I try not to even think about it. When I get something I am proud of, the price paid is forgotten.

This bridge still needs detailing and paint. I hadn't decided if it was permanent, and to finish it. It has a plywood box inside for strength. It has masonite sides just for the look of a cement bridge as suggested by Tom Tee. It took about an hour to build?

It's pretty rugged so I can bang into it when moving stuff under it for storage. I dream big and pictured a mountain scene that ran from the floor to the ceiling. The G scale below and the 3 rail above, would also enjoy the detailing of the scene if ever finished. If I bought everything, I could probably order a pretty well equipped new Corvette for less money.

So there has to be a balance somewhere on what gets the big dollars..... and what gets my attention first.

Don,  If you would like construction details contact me off line.

Two of the MTH truss bridges would be 5 ft. Center sections is 30 inches.  Pictured 54"

Thanks to everyone who has responded!  There are some nice bridges.  Since I am trying to span a isle way that is 64 inches wide, I cannot have any supports except at each end.

Tom, I appreciate your offer to show how the bridges in your photo were constructed.  I have sent you an email.

How fortunate we are to have a place like this where help is so forthcoming!

Thanks,

Don

+1 on Tom Tee's approach.   A 64" span using ply is inexpensive, rigid, and durable when the ply is glued up as a solid box cross section.  I'm currently doing projects using 5mm floor underlayment (from H.D. or Lowes) and find the ply flexible and easy to form into an arch for a bridge.

Another approach I've used in the past for long unsupported spans is aluminum channel cut to length with truss and/or girder bridges mounted on top of it.