I was watching an HO related video about fine tuning your rolling stock for better operation and was wondering if any of you lubricate the axle points on your freight cars, especially those of you who run longer trains.
If so, what do you use? Dry graphite (like pinewood derby cars) or some kind of light machine oil.
Have you noticed any improvements in pulling power of your locomotives afterwards?
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Mobil 1 on the postwar axles - sintered iron wheels on metal axles - makes them roll almost like the needlepoint fast-angle wheel equipped cars. It makes a big difference.
I've always lubricated the axles on my rolling stock. Particularly post war stock where there are four surfaces rubbing together. The wheel to axle 2 places, and the axle to journal, 2 places. The newer needle point axles get lubed also. Lately I have been using LGB oil, because it's what I have on hand.
I always lubricate my pre and postwar axles. I use Labelle products, but it really doesn't matter what you use as long as you use a lubricant (not WD-40).
I been using Labelle 107 for years.
Mobil 1 in a syringe with a tube extension..spins freely and doesn't sling.
As far as I am concerned graphite is best kept as far away from trains as possible. In my experience graphite powder stains and is impossible to remove. I guess it would be OK if you like weathered equipment.
It can migrate from where its applied.
I use turbine oil from an old zoom spout oiler (Unocal 76 turbine oil).
The company that made this particular version of the oiler ceased production. Several other companies are now making the same oiler, but I do not know what they use to fill theirs.
I tried putting some of the oil in a needlepoint oiler, but the turbine oil oozed through the plastic. It does not ooze through the original plastic bottle. Anybody know what type of container I need to hold the oil?
This article on lubricants for fans is interesting.
I don't lubricate any freight or passenger cars, only locos. Never had one squeak and never noticed any major difference in drag when I tried lubricating them vs. not lubricating them. Not worth my time.
3 in 1 oil in an old Labell bottle with needle applicator.
especially on postwar rolling stock it makes a HUGE difference.
Locos pull much easier.
SJC posted:I don't lubricate any freight or passenger cars, only locos. Never had one squeak and never noticed any major difference in drag when I tried lubricating them vs. not lubricating them. Not worth my time.
That may be true but you may notice a difference in wear by lubricating. Friction causes wear. I've seen one instance where the needle end of the axle drilled through the end of the truck frame. Ask Tom at the Cho Choo Barn, I bet that he has seen this happen too.
I've lubricated most of my rolling stock with XL Excelle Lubricants Medium oil, I've also had to lube between the bolster and truck on a couple of cars to keep them from squeaking.
A little goes a long way!
Rich,
I use Nano Oil ( go to http://www.nano-oil.com/). A bit pricey, but I definitely see a difference. Before Nano Oil, I used Labelle. This also improved rollability, but I do see better results with Nano Oil. I also use the Nano Lube on my engines.
Dave
Dennis LaGrua posted:SJC posted:I don't lubricate any freight or passenger cars, only locos. Never had one squeak and never noticed any major difference in drag when I tried lubricating them vs. not lubricating them. Not worth my time.
That may be true but you may notice a difference in wear by lubricating. Friction causes wear. I've seen one instance where the needle end of the axle drilled through the end of the truck frame. Ask Tom at the Cho Choo Barn, I bet that he has seen this happen too.
I think by the time my trains run as much as the trains on the Choo Choo Barn layout, I'll long be dead...and believe me, I've got a long way to go (hopefully)!!
I use air tool oil, Marvel and Lucas, in needle applicator bottles. Used it for many years on my N and HO trains with excellent success.
My layout is too small and my trains are too short to notice any variation in pulling power, I just believe in lubrication.
Pete
No freight car goes on my layout until it is oiled, not to avoid squeaking, but to avoid extra wear and easier rolling. Any light oil will do. I usually use whatever I find at York.
Dennis
Rich T,
I am still using a small amount Red & Tacky in a curved syringe on most everything, except my Legacy Shay. It seems the R&T is a might heavy for all the different gear works, so I am using Mobil #1 in a curved tipped Syringe to lubricate all the moving gears & shafts. Got to admit once I use the Red & Tacky most times, I never have to repay anything, the Mobile #1 needs to be reapplied at different intervals on the Legacy Shay.
PCRR/Dave
I use Excelle lubricants on all my rolling stock. Medium for O gauge and Heavy for standard gauge.
I oil wheels that roll free on their axle. The only needle points I have oiled are passenger cars.
I use LaBelle on all my trains
Bob C.
The only other thought I have is to remember to use plastic compatible oil on the appropriate places.
I don't lubricate any freight or passenger cars, only locos. Never had one squeak and never noticed any major difference in drag when I tried lubricating them vs. not lubricating them. Not worth my time.
At the Armed Forces Retirement Home show, I kept hearing an annoying squeak. Turned out it was the die-cast trucks on an older B&O Standard O box car. Went to the La Belle. I haven't taken the time to oil until I hear the squeaks, though. Maybe I should.
Which weight Mobil 1 do you use/suggest?
Rich,
We have always lubed the axles, that metal carriage which hangs/rides on the axles if it is there, and the roller pickups if equipped, with plastic compatible oil. Seems to reduce rolling friction, start "sticktion?", wear on the truck side frames if the axles just fit in there like say Weaver sprung trucks.
I use Labelle 107 or Woodland Scenic’s 654 lite plastic compatible oil on axle steam engine drivers and cross heads, locomotive motor and axle bearings, and pick up rollers; also car trucks metal or plastic.
Either Labelle 134 or Woodland Scenic’s 657 white grease with Teflon on gears.
Labelle dry Teflon 134 or Woodland Scenic’s 652 on couplers and truck swivels.
Bogie
Any light oil is fine: 3-in-1; 30wt motor oil is good too - a quart will out live all of us here. Graphite has a place (coupler mechanisms, for example), regardless of comments above.
Free-rolling Delrin plastic trucks need no lubricant. Essentially, if it rolls like the wind out of the box, it never needs lube - probably Delrin. Otherwise, as I said, any light oil.
BANDOB posted:SJC posted:I don't lubricate any freight or passenger cars, only locos. Never had one squeak and never noticed any major difference in drag when I tried lubricating them vs. not lubricating them. Not worth my time.
At the Armed Forces Retirement Home show, I kept hearing an annoying squeak. Turned out it was the die-cast trucks on an older B&O Standard O box car. Went to the La Belle. I haven't taken the time to oil until I hear the squeaks, though. Maybe I should.
I should of course mention that if a car squeaks, I'll oil it. No squeak, no oil.
Locos of course get maintained per instructions from manufacturer.
P & L posted:Which weight Mobil 1 do you use/suggest?
I use 0/20W Mobil One
P & L posted:Which weight Mobil 1 do you use/suggest?
I use whatever is on sale/cheaper. It doesn't matter at these temps/pressures.
Take any car you haven't lubed in a while and spin the wheels hard with a finger. Lube the axles and spin them again. You won't believe how much longer it takes them to stop.
One point to remember; lubricating oil on axles will eventually collect dust, and over time the combination WILL turn pretty stiff. Thus, I learned WAY BACK in my HO days (late 1950s) that NOT lubricating freight car truck axle ends was a good thing.
Thus, I do NOT lubricate ANY of my freight car trucks.
HotWater
i agree with you in general, but when I saw the difference in locomotive pulling power when cars in that long HO train were lubricated just a little (on cars that needed it, not every car) I was impressed. I have some pretty steep grades up & out of my staging yards on the Trenton & Western. Anything that makes it easier is something i'm gonna try.
Besides, if certain cars do get "gunked-up", it will give me a chance to simulate a trip to the car shops for some "new wheels"
See you Saturday.
It doesn't take much. I had trouble getting a small enough drip of oil so I went to putting some oil in a small container, dipping a toothpick in it twice. A small bead will finally appear at the tip so you can apply it accurately where you want it.
Dennis