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As a raw new rookie, I am just starting to start building a control panel.  I am using only Lionel Post War 1950 era trains and tracks.  I do not want to try and reinvent the wheel so I am asking for your help. 

FIRST:  I want to use SPST Switches to operate buildings, light poles and accessories i.e. sawmill, cattle & milk platforms  Any suggestions on what type of through hole switches to use?

TWO:  I would like to set up my 022 switches to a switch.  I believe this switch will be a DPDT.  Any suggestions on what type of through hole switches to use?

THREE:  My 464 Sawmill runs a little to fast and the log jams inside the building.  I was thinking of placing a potentiometer to slow the motor down.  Is this a good idea and is there a preference on a switch.

FOUR:  I would like to add lights to indicate if the switches are on or off.  Any suggestions on lights?

 

Thanks for helping me out.

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Terry;

I am using bat wing SPST lighted switches from Radio Shack.

I'm sure they can be found elsewhere for less money as well.

A couple RS part numbers:

275-706 long handle Red light

275-019 short handle green light

Don't see the ones I'm using, Hope they are not discontinued.

 

To clarify, these are for lighting accessories and such, not your )-22 switches, those need a momentary switch.

 

For slowing the sawmill try adding a pair of diodes wired back to back in line, it will drop 1.6V from the line without making heat like a pot. Need to drop more, add another pair.

Switches and relays use the following industry terms to describe the contact arrangements, so that you don't get all involved (or confused) when trying to type or say what you want.

 

Form A = make = normally open.  (A as in mAke)

 

Form B = break = normally closed (B as in Break)

 

Form C = make/break = one make, one break = transfer  (what the general public calls a SPDT)  (C as in Combination)

 

So, a DPST would be called a "2 Form A" and a DPDT would be called a "2 Form C"

 

 

Most Radio Shack illuminated switches are "single Form A" designed to be used in automobiles, with 12 volt systems.  This will be a problem if you try to use them for track indicators.  They will burn out rapidly, or instantly, depending upon the voltage you apply to the track.  A better way is to use separate switches and pilot lamps for each circuit. In that way, you can use switches with 2 Form A contacts. One set of contacts powers the rails, and the other set powers the pilot, using a separate, constant voltage that is compatible with the pilot lamp. (the nice thing about this scheme is that you can dim all the pilots during night-time running sessions.)

 

Track switches will require switches with 2 momentary Form A contacts. See the diagram to learn how to wire the pilots, but note that there is a series wiring scheme going on, such that the pilots are in series with the coils. You might want to save the hassle and just use the conventional switch controllers. They look nice and have the pilots already installed.

 

The first inclination of people when they want to slow something down or reduce the voltage to an accessory is to ask about resistors or rheostats or potentiometers.  Resistors reduce current, not voltage.  Russell is absolutely correct when he recommends using diodes to lower the voltage to the sawmill.  Before you use the diode method, though, have you considered using a different transformer tap, with lower output voltage, or a separate small transformer, dedicated just to accessories and set to just the right voltage?

WOW, Thanks for all the information.  Especially the need for the 022 to be momentary switches.  I have the a separate power source for all the accessories, but I have a smaller transformer that I could use to lower the voltage to the Sawmill.  Great tip!  Also a great idea to look for switches that operate at 18 volts or so to keep them from burning out.  Will LED lights operate at different voltages to solve the problem with the standard 12 volt switches?  Does anyone have a recommendation for lights to use?  I am mounting switches and lights on an aluminum plate.

 

I really appreciate the help and comments.

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