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Frank S, while not really a "tinplate" loco, is constructed almost entirely of metal, including heavy gauge brass, diecast frames (loco & tender) plus a silver-soldered copper (boiler), and various other metal components. In 1989, LGB commisioned Aster of Japan to construct a 1:22.5 live steam model of an actual narrow gauge operating German steam loco, named Frank S for an anonymous preservation donor.

 

LGB stipulated that this Aster model be relatively easy to fire and run. Hence, the Frank S uses a mixture of butane and isobutane as fuel, and has such features as oversize throttle and gas valve knobs, a pressure gauge, a water-level sight glass, boiler-fill plug, reverse lever and pressure relief valve. It also has an easily accesssible valve oil lubricator.

 

In practice, Frank S is best controlled manually when running at "tabletop" level, so one can catch up and operate the throttle and gas valves.

 

Frank S runs ideally on steam-distilled water, highly purified butane fuel (NOT Ronson), and a good quality medium viscosity steam valve oil.

 

Running miniature live steam is fairly messy, since the stack initially releases a mixture of hot water and valve oil onto the tracks and adjacent areas! Hence, it is best NOT to run live steam and electric locos on the same track.

 

The Frank S is a powerful little loco that can pull several LGB 300mm coaches for about 20-25 minutes running time before a water and fuel refill.

 

All in all, a nice introduction to live steam operation with a minimum of fuss!

 

 

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Last edited by Tinplate Art
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As can be seen from the photo above, the Frank S is an 0-6-0, with flanges on all drivers. The copper fuel tank is located in the tender, and the butane fuel passes through a rubber hose with brass fittings, including the burner orifice, into the boiler. The tender allows for a slightly warm water bath around the fuel tank to offset the cooling process, as the butane flows out of the tank.

 

The loco has some very nice add-on details, including boiler check valve handles, and a turned-brass bell!

 

NOTE: This loco has true piston valves, which help to give it more pulling power than simple oscillating cylinders. 

Last edited by Tinplate Art

Live steam locomotives appeal to those that wish to operate a model steam locomotive like the real ones. The Aster-made LGB Frank S live steam locomotive is a nicely made locomotive intended to introduce people to live steam. They are no longer produced.

 

Aster is a premier manufacturer of scale live steam locomotives, and their detail is second to none.

 

Accucraft is another manufacturer of live steam locomotives, and many of their products rival Aster in detail. Accucraft makes entry level locomotives that are simple and relatively inexpensive.

 

Aristocraft, before they closed down, had a live steam Mikado they sold that was remote controlled.

 

Mamod is known for their oscillating cylinder locomotives, and are the simplest and least expensive entry into the live steam market.

 

Most of these manufacturers' locomotives run on 'G' gauge track, except for Mamod, which runs on '0' gauge track. Making a scale '0' gauge or smaller locomotive is difficult, because water and steam do not scale down, and making functional miniature parts becomes a study in precision.

 

Most of these locomotives are fired with either alcohol, or butane, with some of them being fired with coal.

 

There are a number of free plans available online to scratch build a live steam locomotive, mostly for 45mm (G scale) track. If you are a machinist and want a challenge to build and operate a real model steam locomotive, then that can be done.

 

Larry

 

The "York" of miniature live steam has been held annually in Diamondhead, MS just off I-10. Usually, an entire hotel lobby is the scene of several loops of G gauge track for 24-hour live steam operation. Many types of engines can be seen there, including scratch-built, as well as the very largest and complex engines built by Aster, Accucraft, Roundhouse Engineering, and others not so well known. Attendees have come from many countries, including the UK, The Netherlands, Australia, Japan, Germany, and Canada to name a few.

 

Some O gauge engines, including some vintage ones, and even some HO live steam locos have been demonstrated there. Engines seen at Diamondhead run on butane, alcohol, and even coal. One home-built loco even ran on propane (not recommended!).

 

Many dealers set up there and many locos, parts and service are offered.

 

In the past, when I attended in 1996 and 1997, the meets were held in mid-January.

 

NOTE: Propane, unlike butane, is a highly expansive gas, which requires an extra sturdy fuel tank and combustion system for safety reasons.

Last edited by Tinplate Art

Here is a work of art that Charlie made that was run at Diamondhead.

Look at the length of that train, it never ends!

 

Photos of it can be seen here. Click on the video link at the bottom for a close-up of the locomotive running.

 

The BAGRS vertical boiler locomotive on page 4 is a simple locomotive anyone can build with a commercially purchased boiler and oscillating engine. The free plans and instructions can be downloaded here. I have built this also, and was my first step in building  live steam locomotives.

 

Larry

Last edited by TrainLarry

Definitely a showstopper!

 

As I stated above, Charlie and his creations, are unique and impressive!

 

I am strictly, and quite humbly, a ready-to-run guy, whether it be MTH or Lionel standard gauge repros, Lionel O gauge or live steam (I once owned a Roundhouse Engineering SR&RL #24 with RC as well as  a Geoffbilt Shay).

 

I am definitely NOT a mechanical engineer or machinist! Charlie is BOTH, and on a level  few can attain!

Last edited by Tinplate Art

FYI, non-live steam enthusiasts: the burner orifices on butane-fired locos have VERY small diameters, which can easily clog with any miniscule impurity in the butane gas, hence it is advisable to only use multiple-filtered and highly-refined butane, such as found in tobacconist shops. More expensive than the common Ronson, but well worth it!

 

In case of an inadvertent clog, there is a technique using a small wire to clean the burner orifice, but it must always be inserted from the REAR of the orifice to prevent damage to the small diameter opening!

 

Also, the high-temperature valve oil (or steam oil) should be a grade and viscosity suited to miniature live steam locos such as the Frank S. 

 

Lastly, steam distilled water should always be used in small scale live steam locos to prevent scaling.

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